HELP! Equipment Purchase Advice Pt.II

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Ok I posted a msg a couple weeks ago seeking advice on what equipment to purchase for getting started.Thanks for all the responses, got some great advice and suggestions that I definately plan to use!Now it's crunch time...I plan to purchase my first welder this weekend. I've gotten it narrowed down to the type and a few models. Now I'm looking for ANY advice, suggestions, experience with, etc. on any of these machines! Anything that can help me decide which machine to go with. I've been looking over these for far too long, I guess I just don't have enough experience to really know or see the differences in them other than minor spec differences. My immediate plans for use include some welding projects, a welding table, cart, kitchen rack, some ornamental, and maybe a trailer. So far all the materials required usually are no bigger than 1/4 thick and 24ga.Here are the MIGs I'm deciding between:Lincoln: WeldPak 3200HD, to 5/16in., 25-135A DC, CV, 20% duty,115V input, $460Sp-100t, up to 1/4in, 24ga., 20-100A DC, 20% duty, 120V input, $370(refurb)Sp-135T, 5/16in, 24ga., 25-135A DC, 20% duty, 120V input, $420(refurb)Hobart: Handler 125 MIG, 3/16in, 18ga, 30-125A DC, 20% duty, 115VAC, $435 Any insight appreciated!Thanks again!
Reply:Howdy Howdy!  This would be my vote.  Allways try to get a 240 volt machine if at all possible.  The 120 volt machine SUCK at anything bigger then 1/8".  For anything bigger, I would like to recomend a 240 volt machine.  Fot anything smaller, you'll have  better duty cycles with a 240 volt machine.  This is my recomendation.  and it's in stock! for 519$ It is SOOOO worth the lil extra cost.  http://www.toolking.com/productinfo....roductid=10929 Good luck!  Brian Lee  Sparkee27
Reply:I am not familiar with those particular machines.  However, I would suggest making sure they are MIG machines and not simply wire feeders.  Also, I prefer machines with continuous adjustment rather than tapped adjustments. Though I have never used a tapped machine. If you must go 110volt then the proper input amperage is important for top end performance, especially if you are going to mig. I ran an 1992 Century power-mate 100 amp for almost 4 yrs.  An excellent machine it paid for itself literally 300 times over.  I ran it on 30 amp circuit and most of the time I ran it with flux core. It ran well off my generator/welder, also.  The year(1992) is important because our local Century authorized repair rep says the quality as dropped of since then.  I sold the welder for $190.  I wouldn't suggest doing trailer work with a 110 v machine.  Looking at the spec I would eliminate the Hobart -- cost high, lower capacity than the others.Do a search  on this forum on the individual machines.
Reply:I'd go with one of the 135 amp capable machines.  I think the difference in features is minumal and it might just come down to price and warranty.  The extra amps will be a big plus.Smithboy...if it ain't broke, you ain't tryin'.
Reply:I have a Lincoln I think its a 155 model (or something like that) its a wire welder it can be set up for gas but I just use the wire. it is a 240v machine.  It works well parts are easy to get It comes with a 2lb spool but the 10lb is more economical. I have used it for general repairs,lawn mowers and when working on my old cars/trucks. The wire does seem to splatter and gas would be better for clean welds. Now understand I am not a welder just a tinker and this is a good general use machine for me this may not be the best choice for heavy welding I only jumped in here because I had looked at some of the machines you have on your list.For Information about Willys Utility Vehicles http://www.oldwillys.com/
Reply:Just my opinion but you could buy that reconditioned HH 175 from Toolking for $449.00. It would be much better for what you are planning on doing. As some have mentioned I wouldn't want to be building any trailer with the 120 volt machines. You will find that the actual ratings on some of the machines you mentioned to be inflated some. Either that or or under the best of conditions with either multi passes or beveling the metal.I have heard of several that have bought the reconditioned HH 175 or HH 180that were very happy with their purchases.
Reply:I own the sp135..  The comments on getting the 240 volt are dead on.  I got this one for 110 because I thought it would be more portable and easier to plug in anywhere.  While that is true I comprimised on capability.  I have welded 1/8" with it but it was a strain.  The duty cycle at those conditions was abysmal.Just my 2cents.Steven
Reply:Ok so the consensus seems to be to spend the extra 100 bucks or so and go with a 240V machine?Here's a dumb question...So to be able to run 240 I would need to either plug into my dryer outlet? Make a cable from my dryer outlet? How about running a 2nd 240 outlet into my garage?Thanks for all the replies!
Reply:I have a millermatic 130.  I think it's basically the same as the older hobart handler 130.  I have used it for years now with no problems and have been satisfied with its performance...it is not for 1/4 inch stuff, though, even though it has a 1/4 inch rating...it will do it, but not for long and not as well as a bigger unit.  The reason folks here are discouraging you from buying the 120v units are that they probably all have tried to use a 120v welder to do something at the top end of its rating and were dissatisfied with the outcome.  The main thing in a purchase like this is that you understand you are severely limiting yourself in terms of thickness.I still use my mm130 and have not thought of selling it becasue it has its uses.  If you intend to actually weld as a business or as a serious hobbiest...none of these are THE welder.  But, if you are looking to get the best among these, because it's in your range of affordability...that is another issue.Gnewby makes a very good suggestion.  If you have the ability to run 220 to your shop area, the hh175 is a much better machine.  It will limit where you can use it a bit, but you make up for it by bring the work to the welder.  When I am unable to bring the work to the welder, I generally dont have access to 120 either...unless it's off a generator.If you are dead set on the 120v units...go with the highest amp and duty cycle...and consider the warranty.  If 220v is a real option, the refurb units gnewby mentions sound very good.  If you look in craigslist near atlanta, there are a few used welders (mig, tig and stick) for sale right now, but they differ quite a bit from each other.Just keep in mind that ever you decide (120v, 220v, 130 amps, 175 amps, 250 amps), you will always want to trade up later...Last edited by smithboy; 02-11-2006 at 11:54 AM.Smithboy...if it ain't broke, you ain't tryin'.
Reply:Got caught typing while you had already changed your mind...a dedicated line to your garage is the best option.  How far is your breaker panel from the garage?  How far is the dryer from the garage?Smithboy...if it ain't broke, you ain't tryin'.
Reply:I extended a 220 dryer outlet to my garage. The dryer was no longer in use installed a gas unit. I picked up the correct wire I think it was #8 (check with the supplier where you get the wire) and had to change the outlet because welder had a different plug then the dryer not a hard job. If you still use the dryer you may not be able to the use dryer and the welder at the same time without blowing a fuse.For Information about Willys Utility Vehicles http://www.oldwillys.com/
Reply:Howdy Howdy! It is an easy task to install a 240 volt circuit in your garage if your panel is there as well.  You can take 10-3 for a 30 amp circuit, 8-3 for a 50 amp circuit, and 6-3 for a 60 amp circuit.  say, 20' of 8-3, a dryer plug, and a 50 amp breaker shouldn't cost more then 75$ total.  THe trick, is keeping it any easy run.  Sometimes, you can just have the plug in the same bay as the panel.  Anyway, that is the best bet.  Brian Lee  Sparkeee27
Reply:I had 2 slots left in my breaker box.  I got a 50amp breaker to fill those slots and ran 25 feet of 8-3 out to the fwd garage door wall.  I placed 2 220 outlets and a 110.  So far has worked like a charm.  Total cost was ~80.00 Steven
Reply:I ran 220 to my shop and to my breaker box. It works great , I have a 30 foot extention cord I made up so that can move my welder around to different areas of my shop. Most of the 110 volt welders I have seen will say on them that they can run off of a 20 amp breaker that is only for the use of the welder and if you do run an extention cord off of it you better plan on having a heavy duty extention cord or you are going to be starving the 110 volt welder. I know from experiance, like a lot of others I started out with a 110 volt mig welder which I still have in fact, but for the most part it just collects dust in my shop anymore. I use my HH 175 for most all of my welding. I have had it for about 3years The difference between it and my 110 volt Century 135 amp welder are as clear as night and day.
Reply:as far as the Lincoln machines you mentioned i would go the extra distance for the "plus" series in either 120v or 240v. the continuous settings can be a very usefull feature. SP-135 PLUS, or SP-175 PLUS, yes theyre a little more expensive but i feel its money well spent. i personally have an SP 135 plus, and have been very pleased with it. the biggest ive welded with it to date is 1/8th, with no problem and i havent seen it reach its duty cycle yet. but im sure ive gotten close.if i ever have the need for a larger machine i have access to a lincoln AC225 amp ARC machine. which may be a good backup machine for you as well. hope i helped
Reply:I bought an inverter type millermatic passport which runs on 120 or 240 volt and am very happy with it.It is 180amp and to date welded 5/16 with it and no problem.It cost a great deal more but I needed the dual voltage for the job sites.Although I have only used the 120volt 2 times it worked fine on 1/4 inch.I ran 100 feet of 6/3 wire from my panel to the garage with 50 amp breaker and also put a old panel(sub) I had with a 30 amp for the 240volt #10 wire and a 20 amp 120 volt plug allso #10 wire for the 120 volt and also made a 50 foot extension for the 240 volt also #10 cable all works well.I always suggest jmping up 1 wire size to prevent any voltage drop when getting close to the suggested length of run.I would not use #8 on 50 amps as suggested earlier it would be #6 and for 60 amp it would be #4.Nobody moves nobody gets hurt(safety first)millematic passportmiller 375 plasmacutter
Reply:Ok, I'm definately going w/the 240V machine. Thanks for all the help w/running an outlet or extension. I should be able to do that pretty easily. But since I'm looking at least a couple hundred more, it's probably going to be a couple more months now before I can get a machine. As much as I just want something ASAP so I can practice, after reading some of the replies, I can definately see a cheaper 120V machine not being powerful enough very quickly. I did find a Miller 175 240V machine for sale at a pawn shop. They wanted $430 for it. The guy said the guy he bought if from had just replaced 2 boards in the machine, so it should be running pretty good. I may go look at it some more. I don't think I'm going to be able to test it out before I buy it. But at almost $300 less than a new machine, I almost wonder if it's worth buying anyway, even if I end up having to fix some things on it?
Reply:Well Lincoln sells direct to customers with a poor repair reponseMilller cost a little more with a Three year warrantyI own Miller
Reply:I did find a Miller 175 240V machine for sale at a pawn shop. They wanted $430 for it. The guy said the guy he bought if from had just replaced 2 boards in the machine, so it should be running pretty good. I may go look at it some more. I don't think I'm going to be able to test it out before I buy it. But at almost $300 less than a new machine, I almost wonder if it's worth buying anyway, even if I end up having to fix some things on it?
Reply:Cruise around this site before making any big decisions.http://www.toolking.com/category.aspx?categoryID=323
Reply:Guy I wouldn't bite on the pawn shop welder. You can buy a mig welder from Toolking with a warranty. I doubt if the pawn shop would honor any type of warranty on the welder at all if so I doubt if it would be over 90 days. I would much rather deal with someplace that reconditions and sell with a warranty then a pawn shop. Toolking has been getting a lot of good remarks from several on this board and other boards so they must be doing something right.
Reply:I am with sandy and gnewby.  Mucho Replacment might be a bad omen.  Most quality machines come with multi-year warranties.  Even many of the refurbs come with something.Last edited by smithboy; 02-12-2006 at 10:07 PM.Smithboy...if it ain't broke, you ain't tryin'.