Hey guys, need some pointers on TIG welding steel

admin

So I went over to our shop today - we just got a Snap On Flex TIG and I decided to practicesome beads.  I am using a tungsten piece out of the torch with Argon at about 20 - 30 cfh.  I have the heat around 65 or so, the work is about 1/8" steel mandrel bent - I don't think it is aluminized but I could be wrong.The filler rod I use is a copper looking rod - I find that I don't really need filler rod to join two piece of metal pipe.  I am not sure if there is a "standard" way of doing things or not, but when I use filler rod it makes it harder to get that "bead" look... meaning I can lay a straight bead down and it holds well.. but when I go back over it oscillating the torch it's difficult to get the beading.When I run the torch without filler rod, it's easier to get a sort of beading look, but its still not quite like the stainless steel manifold i purchased.I did not weld that - I don't have pics of what I did weld but that manifold is Stainless Steel and you can clearly see the very nice beading pattern.  I cannot seem to get as pronounced a pattern as that.  Does it have to do with the fact that its in stainless steel?  Can anyone please provide me some sort of "intro" on TIG welding aluminum/steel/stainless so that at least I can understand the principles?  Do you oscillate the torch or the fill rod to get that bead?  How fast do you move said object to bead like that?  Is fill rod totally necessary or can I fused two pieces of work with just arc?  Please guide me!!!
Reply:well stainless is a good chioce to learn on..its the only metal that can be fused (no filler) properly..hot rolled steel..cold rolled  and aluminum must have filler added during welding..it does not fuse together..the pic you posted..the weld looks a little "cold"..it is o.k. but a little more heat seeme to be in order (by my standards anyway) to make it "flow" a little nicer...i always use straight argon on stainless and on steel..some do some dont they like 98-2..the tungeston should be the red end 2% thiorated..ground to a point..the sharper the better..and the grinder you use should only be used for tungeston..if not you'll contaminate the tungeston befor you even use it..if the tip touches the filler or the puddle stop and grind...CLEAN IS EVERYTHING acetone is your friend...just dont leave it on the bench  while you weld..hi freq. can start it on fire even if its 10 feet away..keep the torch about 1/8" off the work at about a 30 degree angle and weld twards you....get a puddle going and add the filler from the side and let the bead "roll" around to the other side naturally..you'll see how this all works with lots of practice...you mention you found "copper" color rods..look at the end about 1" up it is usually stamped with the alloy..i'm guessing you found some 70-S..that is the rod for cold rolled/hot rolled steel..aluminum rods are stamped in the same place..most common aluminum rods are 4043 and 5356now get out there and practice practice practice...we're here 24-7 for all your welding questions..(at least someone should be   )...zap!Last edited by zapster; 07-03-2006 at 09:09 AM.I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Thanks Zapster - I didn't weld that manifold, I bought it that way but I would like to reinforce the welds because there are rumors they aren't that good.  Can I just go over the weld again with no filler rod or am I asking for trouble?  Should I leave them alone?  The tungsten I use is red on the end and straight argon so hm.  What filler rod do I use for SS?
Reply:you could go over it again (against my own words..i never go over it )but its probably best to leave it alone..stainless.. well that all depends on the alloy..304..308..316 and all inbetween..use the closest # rod to what the #stainless is..stainless filler dont come in every stainless alloy so the closest # wins......zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Hey Zap.....Mild steels won't fuse?I've never tried it but I didn't know that. How come?I have no intention of doing it, I,m just curious.patrickPatrick
Reply:no... i'm afraid fusing mild steel is a  why? i have no idea..and lord knows i've tried..no matter how hot or how deep the penetration, 1 good whack with a hammer...try it and see..take a piece of 1/4" flatbar and lay it flat..cut a piece from the same bar and weld it together like a "t"now do the same thing with filler added..get out the hammer and see how fast the fused one comes apart...that fast huh?...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Only thing missed by Zapster was if you are fusing stainless to regular steel, or if you have no clue as to the grade of stainless you are welding onto, 309 stainless rod is the safest bet to ensure a good weld.
Reply:Originally Posted by RojodiabloOnly thing missed by Zapster was if you are fusing stainless to regular steel, or if you have no clue as to the grade of stainless you are welding onto, 309 stainless rod is the safest bet to ensure a good weld.
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsterthats not what was asked..he wanted to know why mild steels wont fuse...nothing was mentioned about stainless to m.s.  ......zap!
Reply:I can't help you much I only tig aluminum(welding 28yrs and never had the need to do steel or stainless tig work shame on me  ) but if you follow what zap say's you won't get in any trouble zap is the tig master Creative metal Creative metal Facebook
Reply:For most available grades of 300 series stainless (mostly you'll find 304 and 316), ER308L is the best rod to use - the "L" designation is for low carbon.I r 2 a perfessional
Reply:#1 welding mild steel requires filler because it has additives that suck up the elements (I forget.... hydrogen, and carbon IIRC)  which would otherwise form a brittle hard weld.#2  that picture is not somehitng I would try to imitate.  It sucks.   I'm not much better....  but this guy is.        http://engloid.com/workpics
Reply:That picture reminds me of an aftermarket turbo manifold for some import that a guy brought into work to repair some cracks on.  It was really, REALLY cheesey how they welded it.  Was all stainless, and had obviously been mig welded together.  Afterwards they had gone around all the welds with pulsed TIG - without filler.  The idea was to get that nice TIG look.  But, the original MIG fillet was about 20% wider than the TIG and you could tell it if you had half a clue about welding.  Can we say BLING BLING?Anyway, that picture above to me looks like about the same technique.  The fancy (and not that great, BTW) TIG pass looks like it's covering up something else...
Reply:Originally Posted by PanozengThat picture reminds me of an aftermarket turbo manifold for some import that a guy brought into work to repair some cracks on.  It was really, REALLY cheesey how they welded it.  Was all stainless, and had obviously been mig welded together.  Afterwards they had gone around all the welds with pulsed TIG - without filler.  The idea was to get that nice TIG look.  But, the original MIG fillet was about 20% wider than the TIG and you could tell it if you had half a clue about welding.  Can we say BLING BLING?Anyway, that picture above to me looks like about the same technique.  The fancy (and not that great, BTW) TIG pass looks like it's covering up something else...
Reply:Bump, anyone?