Ordered 3/32 309L rods but they're pretty fat!

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Is this correct?  Is this some sort of shielding material or something?  On the very ends I see a typical 3/32 or so electrode size but the length of the filler rod is fat as heck almost 3/16" - is this normal?  I don't think I want a 3/16" filler rod...
Reply:did you order welding rods or filler for a tig machine..tig filler "wire" has no coating..maybe a little dirty but its just a 3/32 wire abour 3 feet long..if you ordered rods then thats what you got......zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:The zapster's got it.  You got weld rod, not welding wire.I r 2 a perfessional
Reply:TIG wire has no coating , just plain  wire...........allways ask for TIG wire.. sounds like you got flux coated stick rod
Reply:Sounds like you got Electrodes , for stick welding. On smaw ,      not tig .[SIZE="5"Yardbird"
Reply:zaps  got it
Reply:DAMNIT... ****, this is a pain in the ***.  So this stuff is totally useless?  Anyone know of a welding shop in the Philadelphia area?  I ordered from Cameron Supply it took like 9 days to get here.
Reply:UTP. - from Bohler Thyssen Welding /Weld Filler Metals for Fabrication, Maintenance, and RepairStainless Steel Electrodes and WiresItem #6824LC-9 / 309L-16 Stainless Electrode 3/32"For welding 309 type SS & carbon steel to SS, but with low carbon content, CWB/AWS E309L-16. Special high-alloy CrNi-electrode for low-alloy corrosion- and heat-resistant CrNi steels of the same nature as well as for dissimilar metal joints.Thats what I ordered because it said electrode/wire, argh.  Money wasted.
Reply:sorry about the mix up..in the world of tig we use wirein mig we use wire (.035 or so) but its miles long and on a roll..everything else is rods...so i guess the word "wire" is now etched into your brain?  ...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Originally Posted by Jon KUTP. - from Bohler Thyssen Welding /Weld Filler Metals for Fabrication, Maintenance, and RepairStainless Steel Electrodes and WiresItem #6824LC-9 / 309L-16 Stainless Electrode 3/32"For welding 309 type SS & carbon steel to SS, but with low carbon content, CWB/AWS E309L-16. Special high-alloy CrNi-electrode for low-alloy corrosion- and heat-resistant CrNi steels of the same nature as well as for dissimilar metal joints.Thats what I ordered because it said electrode/wire, argh.  Money wasted.
Reply:how many pounds did you buy ?
Reply:Only 1# but you know thats like $12 just wasted lol.  I just called some welding shops but none are open after 5.... i work 8 - 5 Anyway, anyone want a pound of 309-L 3/32 electrodes for STICK welding?
Reply:if you were closer...it would cost more than 12$ to ship them to me......zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Thats true.  I have a really really stupid idea...Is there someway to get the flux off?Haha actually its coming right off with my finger nail!Last edited by Jon K; 07-20-2006 at 06:56 PM.
Reply:knock the flux off and make grill accessories
Reply:really it should tap off with hammer , but will leave some residue still on rod
Reply:yeah i grabbed a pair of needle noses and its littler crumbling off - if i wipe it down or use some sand paper will the metal be useable?!
Reply:sand paper ? i see why not, would try a stick or 2 can t hurt you already paid for it ... but you will need to make sure its all off .
Reply:The residue on it is just kinda dusty... i bet if i wipe it in acetone it'd be near clean.  This flux stuff flakes off VERY easily.
Reply:Scrape it off with a scraper of some kind, pocket knife, etc. Sand clean lightly, acetone swipe, and BURN IT!!!
Reply:Thanks guys - to think I was about to invest more money in filler rods for this project.  For future reference if anyone accidentally buys the wrong rod, though it seems like I have that to myself , you can pinch the flux crustiness with needle nose pliers and it literally just falls off.
Reply:Originally Posted by Jon KOnly 1# but you know thats like $12 just wasted lol.  I just called some welding shops but none are open after 5.... i work 8 - 5 Anyway, anyone want a pound of 309-L 3/32 electrodes for STICK welding?
Reply:Originally Posted by gnm109I assume that you have a stick welder around somewhere. If so, I'd just store those in a dry place until you want to try them out. I keep a few stainlesss SMAW rods around for fun and they make a beautiful bead. They are a "dragger" just like 7018. They work nicely on stainless or mild steel and make a very pretty bead indeed. Since it's only a pound, I'd hang onto them for some future project.
Reply:thats improvising... adapt and over come,   hooo raw
Reply:i've never heard or ever seen flux removal and then use after before.. hee hee gave me an idea for when the tig gets set up.. but i'm not gonna tell you what i'm planning to try... ...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.Originally Posted by zapsteri've never heard or ever seen flux removal and then use after before.. hee hee gave me an idea for when the tig gets set up.. but i'm not gonna tell you what i'm planning to try... ...zap!
Reply:Save those rods! Get some stainless mig wire if you can fine locally. If too thin just cut some to length and spin a few pieces in a drill to make a single.
Reply:I have had some nice results knocking the flux off nickel rods and using it for tig filler repairing cast iron.  My stick skills aren't that great, so I got better results using the rod for tig filler.  I hit the rods with fine emery cloth after knocking all the flux off.Speaking of doing weird things with welders - If I do have to stick weld I still use the footpedal and arc-start.  Does wonders for control when you don't practice stick enough to be good at it!
Reply:Speaking of doing weird things with welders - If I do have to stick weld I still use the footpedal and arc-start. Does wonders for control when you don't practice stick enough to be good at it!you completely lost me on that one...  ...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Originally Posted by Jon KUTP. - from Bohler Thyssen Welding /Weld Filler Metals for Fabrication, Maintenance, and RepairStainless Steel Electrodes and WiresItem #6824LC-9 / 309L-16 Stainless Electrode 3/32"For welding 309 type SS & carbon steel to SS, but with low carbon content, CWB/AWS E309L-16. Special high-alloy CrNi-electrode for low-alloy corrosion- and heat-resistant CrNi steels of the same nature as well as for dissimilar metal joints.Thats what I ordered because it said electrode/wire, argh.  Money wasted.
Reply:so who of us has never 7018 tig welded?"Retreat hell, were just fighting in the other direction"Miller Trailblazer 302, Extreme 12 VS, Dimension 400, Spectrum 375, HF 251D-1, Milermatic 251 w/ spoolgun  Hypertherm 1000Lincoln sp 1702000 F-450 to haul it
Reply:Originally Posted by Jon KUTP. - from Bohler Thyssen Welding /Weld Filler Metals for Fabrication, Maintenance, and RepairStainless Steel Electrodes and WiresItem #6824LC-9 / 309L-16 Stainless Electrode 3/32"For welding 309 type SS & carbon steel to SS, but with low carbon content, CWB/AWS E309L-16. Special high-alloy CrNi-electrode for low-alloy corrosion- and heat-resistant CrNi steels of the same nature as well as for dissimilar metal joints.Thats what I ordered because it said electrode/wire, argh.  Money wasted.
Reply:Dang....I type too slow and tailshaft posted while i was still typing a reply...lolOh well...i guess it doesn't hurt to hear it twice.
Reply:Originally Posted by backuprollerso who of us has never 7018 tig welded?
Reply:I have ran some 7018 with my tig. Okay I cheated, swapped polarity and used a stinger.  LOLDennisThermal Arc 185-TSWMillermatic Challenger 172VictorO/AAtlas Craftsman 12 by 24 LatheEsab PCM-875Wholesalem Tool Mill-Drill
Reply:ZAPwhen i gotta large gap i need to fill, i fire up the bobcat 250 and knock the flux off of a few rods. i turn up the amps and while burning in on rod, i feed in a second rod, sorta like TIG'n. i normally only due this when it's time sensitive and the new parts a on order. i run a rock crusher that crushes concrete and asphalt, and occasionally some large steel items make it into the crusher and whoa buddy, things start breaking. but when a 3 in steel plates cracks, you gotta fill it with something until the new plate arrives. hence 7018 tig welding."Retreat hell, were just fighting in the other direction"Miller Trailblazer 302, Extreme 12 VS, Dimension 400, Spectrum 375, HF 251D-1, Milermatic 251 w/ spoolgun  Hypertherm 1000Lincoln sp 1702000 F-450 to haul it
Reply:well if you do it than i will also...this is gonna be fun!! seriously..i have to wait...see electrical forum ...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.