Mild Steel TIG

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I have been practicing TIG welding on .063 & .083 mild steel tubing.  The miller site says to use 1/16 2% thoriated tungsten along with 1/16” diameter filler.  I have my welder set to max out at 90amps. I keep melting the tungsten every minute or two.  I tried 3/32” tungsten and no longer the burn the tip up, but welding with 1/16” ER70S-2 filler is tough since it just melts up the wire like a fuse and therefore not getting the filler in the right spot.Should I up the filler diameter?Should I stay with the 3/32” tungsten?Off topic question: should I use ER70S-2, ER70S-3, or ER70S-6 for mild steel on sandrail frame?
Reply:whats your polarity?  should be running dc electrode negativeIF it Catches...Let it Burn
Reply:oh on that second question Id use the no 6 js cause its more forgiving on surface impuritiesIF it Catches...Let it Burn
Reply:Sounds like you're running on ac or dc+, should be dc- asTx stated. 1/16 filler should be fine for those amps. Give some feedback on all of you settings. Gas should be at about 15 cfh.
Reply:If polarity is correct, then are you sure you have the rod at the correct angle.  It should be at 20 degree from the surface of the metal.  If the rod is too high then the deflection of the heat off the metal will melt the rod before you reach the puddle.  The rod should just touch the edge of the puddle.
Reply:Originally Posted by TxRedneckwhats your polarity?  should be running dc electrode negative
Reply:Originally Posted by TxRedneckoh on that second question Id use the no 6 js cause its more forgiving on surface impurities
Reply:Originally Posted by orphan68Sounds like you're running on ac or dc+, should be dc- asTx stated. 1/16 filler should be fine for those amps. Give some feedback on all of you settings. Gas should be at about 15 cfh.
Reply:Originally Posted by tapwelderIf polarity is correct, then are you sure you have the rod at the correct angle.  It should be at 20 degree from the surface of the metal.  If the rod is too high then the deflection of the heat off the metal will melt the rod before you reach the puddle.  The rod should just touch the edge of the puddle.
Reply:Have you had an opportunity to try any of the suggestions?  If So, has any thing changed?As I weld I allow the puddle to melt the filler, not the flame.  The filler should not stick to the metal when dipped.  Push the puddle with the torch and dip lightly into the puddle.  If you haven't already, then cut the rods in half or thirds, they are easier to control.  When you get the rhythm it is easy and fun.
Reply:Try a larger torch angle as well without the back step.Stephen
Reply:Originally Posted by tapwelderHave you had an opportunity to try any of the suggestions?  If So, has any thing changed?
Reply:Originally Posted by wirehuntTry a larger torch angle as well without the back step.Stephen
Reply:one thing to rememberthe instant the tungsten touches either the filler rod or the subject matter STOP!!!!the tungensten is contaminated and useless at this pointyes it iskeep several sharp tungestons handy at all timesand acetone cleaning ANYTHING you weld is a musti always say "if its not acetoned i won't weld it"there is no such thing as "too clean" when it comes to tig weldingand by the way if you leave the acetone on the welding bench theres a good chance you will set it off...especially with hi-freq while doing aluminumno sparks just the hi freq will set it offyes it will... and 1 other thing ...LOOSE THE GLOVE IN THE FILLER HAND!!a glove is a dirt and oil magnet and all your doing is contaminating the filler rodwash your handsand did anyone ever take brand new filler rod of any type and ever run it thru a rag with acetone on it?..filler rod is dirty out of the gate so clean that tooits the small things that seperate the welders from the welders  ...zap!Last edited by zapster; 01-17-2006 at 10:08 PM.
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsterLOSE THE GLOVE IN THE FILLER HAND!!a glove is a dirt and oil magnet and all your doing is contaminating the filler rodwash your handsand did anyone ever take brand new filler rod of any type and ever run it thru a rag with acetone on it?..filler rod is dirty out of the gate so clean that tooits the small things that seperate the welders from the welders  ...zap!
Reply:Originally Posted by YFZok, good point...I have been using gloves and I do have a fingertip remote.  should I have any gloves on either hand?I figure I would get flash burned after awhile if I did so bare handed...
Reply:as far as flash burned goesyou can weld in a t-shirtwear the highest sunblock you can get on your arms or any exposed skinit works ...zap!
Reply:Yeah, that was something I forgot to mention, always clean the filler rod before welding. It makes life that much easier. I also weld without a glove on the "filler" hand, except when welding aluminum. It just gets too damn hot.As for getting flash burns, were a button-up long sleeve shirt. Something not too thick.
Reply:The only time I clean the filler is on stainless.As for no gloves well to each his own.I NEVER EVER cut the wire in half, it's a filthy habbit! If I could get it I would use longer wire.Why?Because your increasing the amount of stop-starts. If you learn with a full length it can save you a lot of problems when you get right into positional welding.Stephen
Reply:Originally Posted by wirehuntThe only time I clean the filler is on stainless.As for no gloves well to each his own.I NEVER EVER cut the wire in half, it's a filthy habbit! If I could get it I would use longer wire.Why?Because your increasing the amount of stop-starts. If you learn with a full length it can save you a lot of problems when you get right into positional welding.Stephen
Reply:Regarding the difficulty of adding filler wire in a TIG weld, here are a few thoughts.   1.  Tilt the torch slightly (10 deg.) to push the puddle ahead of the tungsten tip and thereby allow some room to dip the filler metal into the leading edge of the puddle.  The puddle should melt the filler, not the arc.2.  Keep the tip to work distance at a minimum and keep it steady as possible.  As some one said, if you dip the tungsten, stop welding, get a freshly ground tungsten, try again.  (This self inflicted punishment may train you not to dip so much).3.  Adding the filler wire in a consistent dip-retract, dip-retract, rhythm can enhance the nice rippled appearance of the bead.4.  For critical welds, such as aircraft aluminum, or just as a best practice, take care not to retract the filler wire outside of the protective inert gas shielding, since the end of the hot wire would be oxidized and then contaminate the weld on the next dip.
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsteri take out a few extra rods ane keep them where i can grab them easily..so dont have to stop and start...try it sometime ...zap!
Reply:Originally Posted by wirehuntI do that zap with the full length's. If the positiion isn't to filthy I can get well over half way around a 24" butt without stopping.  But have you tried to find somewhere on a pipe when your up a scaffold to sit the spare wire?Stephen
Reply:Originally Posted by pulser3.  Adding the filler wire in a consistent dip-retract, dip-retract, rhythm can enhance the nice rippled appearance of the bead.
Reply:Originally Posted by YFZIs this method only having the torch move in a forward direction?  ...and avoiding the backstep like someone already mentioned to try?  I honestly thought the rippled weld was from moving the torch back and forth like in MIG welding.Concerning getting a mild-steel plate weld as 'nice' as possible, is there 'better' options than the E70S-2 /6 fillers? What if I'm useing a 309 type filler for stainless to mild steel? I've heard that stainless steel 'floats' better, have anyone tryed to weld mild steel to mild stell with 309 filler??
Reply:Yes, you can do it, but the stainless is more expensive and not really necessary. Just seems like a waste of money to me. Use the -6, I think that is the better one to use, but I may be mistaken.
Reply:Stainless steel isn't ideal for many reasons.  If your part is going to have cycling loads, it tends to form intergranular cracks that can lead to failure down the line.  If the part is structural, strength critical, and a weld on both sides not possible, you're going to have problems with weld crystalization.  You have to use a backup flux or argon back purge.  It is difficult to get good penetration without any kind of backup for the weld.  The thermal properties of stainless are different as well, so if the part is going to be heated and cooled that may become an issue.
Reply:Originally Posted by tapwelderIf polarity is correct, then are you sure you have the rod at the correct angle.  It should be at 20 degree from the surface of the metal.  If the rod is too high then the deflection of the heat off the metal will melt the rod before you reach the puddle.  The rod should just touch the edge of the puddle.