Stick welding Help

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I am new to welding and I am trying to learn how to stick weld, mostly for hobby work. I was wondering what you think of this weld?I am using an AC buzz box (Clarke 95E) at about 90 amps (maxed out!), the rod is 5/64” E6013. The metal is Home Depot 1/8” steel. The ends of the metal are square, no bevel. And they are butted right together. I used a little bit of weaving back and forth across the gap. Here is what it looks like from the back.The weld looks a little fat to me, and I am not sure if I am getting enough penetration. What do you all think?Thanks for the help. John
Reply:Well your rod is a bit undersized for the 1/8th you're practicing on and your machine is too if you're wanting to just slap a rod to it and burn it in. And 6013 is sort of a fill rod so It's not going to let you hang around long enough to burn in either. You may want to try some 6011 if you can find some of the 3/32nds. If you are happy with simple fillets with good fusion or doing a lot of bevelling or leaving some gaps to get into, you're machine is right at the edge of dealing with 1/8th. One of the problems with running the extra small 6013 is that you can cook the flux at 90 amps. You're fine as long as you're running a bead but as soon as you stop you'll see that an inch or more of the flux is toast.
Reply:That looks better than my first attempts! (I'm still a relative newbie.) Maybe a bit slow travel if anything.If destructive testing is ok,try breaking the weld or cutting it to see if you got sufficient penetration. Even at 90A,you should be able to use 3/32 rod,particularly 6011. Get ready for uglier welds though.
Reply:Sandy, I will have to get me some 6011 to try. Do you think if i just dragged the 6013 along the gap that it would weld these two pieces together? Or it still wouldn't be enough penetration? Squirrel, I'll put this into a vise and give it a wack or two and see what happens.   Thanks for the help.          John
Reply:The purpose you wish to use the weld for matters a lot.if its a handrail bracket weld , no worries. The load and use really determine the quality of the weld bead required.Given you are only using a dinky welder you might try this.Space your gap say about 2/3 rds of your electrode bare wire diameter. Tack each end holding the electrode horizontal.  Run your bead along the gap weaving only slightly. Keep your arc length very short,it will give good penetration with less overheating. If theres is a  serious load on this bracket , flip it over and run the bead on the reverse side.Lastly, forget the 6011. If a welder can't peno 1/8'' steel with a 6013 he should give it away as he won't improve matters with a firestick.Give it a go mate ,you find it works.cheersGrahameIf I can teach high school kids ,I can teach anyone
Reply:Sandy, I will have to get me some 6011 to try. Do you think if i just dragged the 6013 along the gap that it would weld these two pieces together? Or it still wouldn't be enough penetration?
Reply:I'd give the 3/32 6011 Hobart a try with the machines limitations. It spatters a bit more for sure but the idea is to weld it together, it's been used for a long time for root beads and general repairs.David
Reply:LOL, I went through a pound of 6013 to get to this point. Like they say practice practice practice.    Thanks for the help guys.     john
Reply:I am new also and have a similar problem with penertation. Put it in a vise along the joint and bend it over 90 deg then back and see it it breaks