ss to cast iron

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want to weld a cast iron exhaust manifold to a stainless steel catalyst useing a arc welder. what type off rod do i use. and were in the uk could i buy them from. ohh hello aswell my first post
Reply:Your kidding right?Most exhaust have a flange that S.S. pipe would bolt to..then you weld on the cats...Stainless to cast iron.. ...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:mmm.... it will take you longer to try and figure how to do it this way than to do it the right way.Go and buy the correct adapter flange, weld it to the cad converter and bolt it up.
Reply:It's bad enough welding cast to cast   I've never even tried cast to steel.DewayneDixieland WeldingMM350PLincoln 100Some torchesOther misc. tools
Reply:yikes....i dont think thats possible to do properly, you might be able to scab it togather but i doubt you will get a proper weld out of it
Reply:You really don't want to do this. To have any hope of success, you'll spend more on materials than the right adapter will cost, and the chance of success is low, even for the experienced.
Reply:Actually, you probably could do this by TIG brazing with a silicon bronze filler rod- it will stick to both the cast iron and the stainless pretty well, assuming you have really cleaned the cast well.BUT- the minute you used it for what it is meant for, exhaust, the heat would affect the two parts differently- cast iron and stainless will cool at radically different rates- which means the first time you run the engine for very long, the cast iron will probably crack and break off from the braze.So if all you want to do is look at the joint, Tig braze it. If you actually want a working engine/exhaust system, do what everybody else says- weld ss to ss, then bolt to cast iron.
Reply:I was wondering if you could pull this off with a 100% nic rod preheating the cast only and then post heating both pieces to a even temp over 600 degrees right after you complete the weld, then a very slow cool down ???? I doubt it cus one of the sharp shooters on this forum would have said this already. But in my own defense, I did weld a piece of 4130 to a cast clevis once and it did weld and even stood a pretty fair amount of load for many years, dont know where it is today but it may still be in use. None the less I would bolt those togeather as others mentioned, may be easier in the long run.Dan.Repair Specialties LLC
Reply:DanM:Ya, probably, but not for the light of heart and it would depend on the condition of the cast. Most likely need to start with several buttering passes of Ni99, preheated and lighty peened. But, how much trouble and money is it worth, when there are no gaurentees?
Reply:I hear ya, A guy can spend many hours jagging around on something only to finish it, stand back, look at it, and say: "what a waste of time that was, next time I will...." Thats what makes forums like this so useful, a guy can save himself wasting a bunch of time just by asking a question. Two minutes on the tube can save you hours of frustration in the shop.Dan.Repair Specialties LLC
Reply:JB weld Miller blue star 2eLincoln 175
Reply:Some of the nickel and brass brazing alloys are good for 1600 degrees.  You'd be extremely close to your material limits under some operating conditions.