welds look any better?

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hello all, so I posted a few pics last week on my T-joint w/o proper cleaning for some feed back on it & what im doing wrong. I know from what Im reading that the mill scal needs to be cleaned  but fig im just practicing.  I do seem to understand a little bit @ this point but do bel in more seat time myself. so here are a few that were cleaned up a bit better than what I posted last time. I did loose myself following that curve in the 1 pic, as well as contaminate the tung. still see some under cutting in the close up as well? I just cant seem to see when I cause that? I want to say that its b/c im a touch shakey in my vert/hort plan? (inconsitsency while laying bead?) please all the help the better, thanks all! Every1 have a good week! Attached Images
Reply:3/32 tong, 3/32 filler, 165amps on this round.
Reply:Looks like you are doing fine.A magnifier in your hood will help you see closer up. But when you get those little undercut places you need to pack in your rod a bit more. Some metals just want to undercut more than others. Also a really sharp tapered tungsten will help with the undercut.Keep up the practicing. I will come to you all of a sudden(well maybe not that fast).Weld like a "WELDOR", not a wel-"DERR" MillerDynasty700DX,Dynasty350DX4ea,Dynasty200DX,Li  ncolnSW200-2ea.,MillerMatic350P,MillerMatic200w/spoolgun,MKCobraMig260,Lincoln SP-170T,PlasmaCam/Hypertherm1250,HFProTig2ea,MigMax1ea.
Reply:appreciate that! thx
Reply:Looks better with it clean but in my estimation 3/32 is too big to be messing with because you spend more heat just trying to melt the filler let alone get GOOD penetration..99% of all the welds I post are all 1/16" filler so you can get a real good weld with more heat in the piece rather in the filler..Try some 1/16" and you will see a big difference.....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:thanks zap! my truck builder also said the same about the 1/16. once I move to thinner gauge like body panels do I step down in size?
Reply:.045 is good for panels but remember the heat goes down like the size of the material.....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:They are right keep the filler in the puddle or gas zone, try moving up one filler size at a time, and pratice, practice,practice eventually you will get it.wbolden
Reply:The welds look pretty good to me, follow the advice you've gotten here and practice.Lincoln Pro Mig 180Everlast PowerARC 200
Reply:Remember that just cuz it doesn't look like the perfect stack of dimes it can still be a sound quality weld.  some of us with a less steady hand can still make decent welds they just don't always look that prettyTiger Sales:  AHP Distributor    www.tigersalesco.comAHP200x; AHP 160ST; MM350P,  Spoolmatic 30A; Everlast PowerTig 185; Thermal Dynamics 60i plasma.  For Sale:  Cobra Mig 250 w/ Push-pull gun.  Lincoln Wirematic 250
Reply:Bitchinwelds - what part of town are you in ?I am in the learning phase too.Tim
Reply:Tim, in Orlando, fl. Union park 50 area. I'm also in the beg stages w/lots of work ahead. Why u live around?
Reply:You must be out near the super wallmart ?I am just northeast of the jetport.    I am also practicing with Tig.  I may be ahead of you a little butnot sure how much.   Sometimes someone to show you something first hand helps.An autodarkening helmet may help you some.  Even a cheapie one from HF or Northern should doOK and make life a lot easier while you are on the steep part of the learning curve.  I have only beenTigging about a year or so but I have gas welded and stick welded (poorly...)  since I was a kid.If you need help on a week end or evening  I'd be happy to show you everything I know -should take about 10 minuites !    But seariously, I'm not too far away so if you need help let me know.  Keep burning rod,  Tim
Reply:Tim thx, so u doing this 4 a living or hobby? Def n e thing would be helpful! I stay across from valencia east actually. Let me know
Reply:Most of what I weld is just things I repair or build. Occasionaly I build things for frends.One thing which will help you (I can tell from your comments that you don't understand) is to studythe ramifications of the differences between materials.  One is basic thermodynamics.  Rate of heatconduction.  get three pieces of wire 1 foot long. one aluminum, one steel, one SS.Hold each three by the tip on one end - and hold the other so the last inch is in a oxy-acetyleneflame.  Notice how long you can hold on before you have to drop it.  BIG difference !Why do I need to know this ?    if you're pouring heat into a spot at the beginning of the weld jointtrying to get the puddle started -  the heat will remain there and build up - puddle forming -------or it will conduct across where its cold - no puddle - no nothing to look at it ------    In this case youhave to raise the heat input WAY up because its bleeding off so fast.  ( like aluminum)   It conductsso fast the whole work piece wants to raise it tempature everywhere together.  But you DON"T wantthat.....   So to get a puddle to form- your input has to be WAY greater than the loss of the heatleaving the puddle area.  Now think about this........It is conducting heat FAST and efficiently.   trying to equalise everywhere.   So----- if you take 5 minuites of heating to get the puddle started.... you can be pretty sure the rest of the work is atallmost the same tempature.  So your goal is to get the puddle liquid and start the weld BEFOREthe rest of the work gets way hot.   And this is just based on time !     AND the smaller the mass(or size)  of the work is the more sensitive this problem becomes.   A small cupon gets hot all overREALLY fast.   So you have to really blast in a LOT of current at the beginning of the puddle onaluminum.  Maybe 2x what it takes to weld in the middle.     Then- as you work to the other endof the joint---  the whole work is getting hotter- which means it now taked less current to maintain thepuddle.  The puddle may grow uncontrolably with hardly any current.  This means you took too long.This is why you back off the pedal near the end.  (like you mentioned)  also you have to learn to dip fast and accurate and steady for aluminum- maybe at least 1/2 inch a seccond.( you would go slowly on steel)Another consequence of heat conduction----  since aluminum conducts really fast  -  you don't get bug heat gradients usualy.  Because of thatyou don't get big warping -  (due to large changes in temp over short distances) This is helpfull.   When you build something you tacks can be widely spaced (relatively)------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------NOW -- consider stainless steel.   Very poor heat conductor-  used in thermos jugs.Take everything about aluminum and its the OTHER way.     So your technique has to be different -  your approach to managing the heat !Regular steel is somewhere in the middle.   Thats why its good to start with.  and its cheaper too.( and often dirtier too  ! )I can come over durring the week in the evening after dinner if you like-  maybe this comming week.Try to find some sheet steel maybe 1/16and some clean aluminum - say 3/32 or 1/8steel is best to learn on !Tim