New Guy here- Here is a ramp I made

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Just registered and I wish I would have found this forum sooner! Im no pro welder but I have a little 110v Matco tools mig welder (not sure who makes it). It works pretty well for the little things I use it for.I made a new ramp for my landscape trailer. Its on the exterior of the trailer. The ramp is a bit heavy and I want to try to alleviate some of the weight. I really do not have many options since its a barn door trailer. I have tried many many ideas and the only one I can come up with is a torsion bar hinge.Basically what I was thinking of doing is welding on a "hinge" in the middle of the ramp using a 2 peices of tube and 1 peice of rod that fits inside. Then put the ramp up and weld on the tube, insert the pin inside the tube and then weld the rod ends to the tube. Then once I bring the ramp down, it will twist the bar inside, increasing the resistance, and reducing the weight of the ramp. A few questions:Would that work??What type of bar would I need? just mild steel? or something special?Where could I get this bar? I am having a hard time finding something online.The project has turned out great and I cant wait to finish it. I still need some expanded metal for the hole that in the ramp. I managed to get all that as scraps so that is the reason for it being all in different angles.Here are some pics of the ramp.Im sure my technique is terrible but this was welded with the "C" motion.
Reply:nice job!only thing worse than an ugly woman is an ugly weld
Reply:I am wondering how you will size the "torsion" bar correctly for this. Too stiff and you will never move the ramp down. Too loose and it will be on no help at all?I'm wondering if some kind of garage door "torsion" spring(s) could be adapted for what you are trying to do. At least that would be "adjustable" for you. A plain old welded bar will have no adjustments and it will be trial and error to try and get it right.Hopefully someone with more knowledge will chime in here. There are lots of folks on here that have and do build trailer and ramps quite often.
Reply:I've seen a lot of beavertail goosenecks with a coil spring loaded on the shaft to resist the weight.  I wish I had some pics.  It's a pretty simple design.  If somebody doesn't have a pic, I can make one of my lousy drawings.  It's a pretty common design, but I don't know if I can do a good job of drawing it correctly."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Or if I can correctly remember how it's designed"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:I think it had to do with how the spring was designed.  It had long arms at either end that rested against the frame of the trailer, and against the ramp"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Originally Posted by farmersammI've seen a lot of beavertail goosenecks with a coil spring loaded on the shaft to resist the weight.  I wish I had some pics.  It's a pretty simple design.  If somebody doesn't have a pic, I can make one of my lousy drawings.  It's a pretty common design, but I don't know if I can do a good job of drawing it correctly.
Reply:Originally Posted by SandyThis is what I have generally seen. Buy them in sets and add additional springs if you want more assist. http://www.econolinetrailers.com/Pro...p?ProductID=86
Reply:Well I hade a huge reply posted and my POS computer freaked and I lost everything Crap where do I start AGAIN.........Basically, I had tried a torsion bar earlier tonight that was much like a car trunk setup using quarter inch bar from menards and it just twisted and broke after just a few ramp cycles. The hinges I have welded on already are just .5" bar so they are pretty low profile. And I for the life of me cannot figure out how to apply those springs that were posted to my setup as is. I am trying to minimize the back peddalign as much as possible but it looks like is kinda screwed myself here.I would def appreciate some pics of ramp setups using those springs because I need some fresh thoughts. I just cant figure out how to make a hinge using those springs. That is why I am onto this torsion bar thought process. I really would not have to change the design much.I really do appreciate all the replies this late at night! I am glad I found this forum!!!
Reply:Great looking job, so far.Just a critique.  The expanded metal on each side is call "flat expanded".  It's going to be slippery, and going to bend.   The piece in the center is called "structural grating".  I can't remember, but looking at your picture, I believe you have it installed correctly.  One way it's slick, the other way it's not.  To check stand on it and slide your foot.  One direction will move freely, the other it won't, good gripping for walking.  I know, I screwed up one time on a larger ramp I built and installed the grating the wrong way.  I only build ramps using structural grating now (for light duty ramps).Good luck with your project, and helper springs.
Reply:looks just as good as it does on lawn site.
Reply:Originally Posted by paweldorGreat looking job, so far.Just a critique.  The expanded metal on each side is call "flat expanded".  It's going to be slippery, and going to bend.   The piece in the center is called "structural grating".  I can't remember, but looking at your picture, I believe you have it installed correctly.  One way it's slick, the other way it's not.  To check stand on it and slide your foot.  One direction will move freely, the other it won't, good gripping for walking.  I know, I screwed up one time on a larger ramp I built and installed the grating the wrong way.  I only build ramps using structural grating now (for light duty ramps).Good luck with your project, and helper springs.
Reply:Originally Posted by ClassifiedThe outside is the same material as the inside. The only difference in the the inside a guage thicker. The inside and outside is a raised expanded metal just ont outside is turned sideways.Thanks for the compliment!
Reply:Originally Posted by ClassifiedThe outside is the same material as the inside. The only difference in the the inside a guage thicker. The inside and outside is a raised expanded metal just ont outside is turned sideways.Thanks for the compliment!
Reply:You could use a garage door spring on it!At the top corner of the trailer, drill a hole to run a thin cable through, attach it to the top corner of the ramp and run it in through the hole, on the inside top corner near the roof inside, have a piece of thin wall box tube steel containing the spring, a 2x2 by however long it needs to be to allow the spring to streatch according to the swing of the ramp from upright to the ground, and a little extra for the spring itself,You would want to do this on both sidesWe made a few of these for use on open utility type trailers with full size ramps just like yours, on those it attaches to the top of the rail, the more it streatches the spring, the lighter the ramp feels.#1. If you don't like what I wrote, or if it offends you, then don't read it!#2. I am living life the way I see fit, if you don't like the way I'M living, tough sh**!
Reply:But, of course, your swing open doors would be limited to opening up to where the cable is!#1. If you don't like what I wrote, or if it offends you, then don't read it!#2. I am living life the way I see fit, if you don't like the way I'M living, tough sh**!
Reply:To bad you couldn't have made the ramp to store itself inside the doors, then there wouldn't of been a problem with the cable being in the way of the doors.#1. If you don't like what I wrote, or if it offends you, then don't read it!#2. I am living life the way I see fit, if you don't like the way I'M living, tough sh**!
Reply:What about the license plate?
Reply:Originally Posted by Ken DennisBut, of course, your swing open doors would be limited to opening up to where the cable is!
Reply:Originally Posted by fastcatlooks just as good as it does on lawn site.
Reply:Originally Posted by sdoneckerWhat about the license plate?