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I am putting these separate so it doesn't all run together. I have heard that you can use the "red" coded tip for alum, or stainless, or mild. And the "green" is just for aluminum. Is this right, and is there much difference, it seems easier to just have to buy one type and either make the point or the ball. Speaking of the ball, I sometimes have difficulty getting the ball to work. I was shown that you can make it easier if you spark it to a piece of copper of bronze, but if you don't have any of that handy is there a better way to ball up the tip. I was using the green tip for that. thanks.
Reply:Ok, you wanto use the red stuff. You dont need to preball the end, it happens as you go along. Dont use the green stuff, it gets weird after a while and has trouble keeping an arc (I went through this in a previous post). I usually make a point (about a 1 diameters of the tungsten to start for aluminum). and off I go. I dont worry to much about it if a ball forms, I just keep going.Various GrindersVictor Journeyman torch200cf Acet. 250cf oxygenLincoln 175 plus/alpha2 gunLincoln v205t tigLincoln 350mpEsab 650 plasmaWhen you can get up in the morning, Its a good day.Live each day like its your last.
Reply:I use the Red End tungestion for anything and everything..But thats just me.....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:thanks that makes it a lot easier .
Reply:Newb Q: What's the difference between red and green?When I got my rig it came with a bundle of tungsten...ThermalArc 185MillerMatic 180 w/ AutosetVictor Cutskill Oxy/AcetyleneThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 38and spite!
Reply:Originally Posted by DirtyLittleSecretNewb Q: What's the difference between red and green?When I got my rig it came with a bundle of tungsten...
Reply:but sometimes it will split on the ball end......haven't figured that out yet.
Reply:Is the thoriated type pose any radiation danger, like when you are grinding the point?
Reply:Originally Posted by caosesvidaIs the thoriated type pose any radiation danger, like when you are grinding the point?
Reply:AWS has a fact sheet, no. 27http://aws.org/technical/facts/I would add that inhaling a lot of dust, of any variety on a regular basis is bad... Also, The Fabricator magazine had a good article awhile back on tungstens:http://thefabricator.com/ArcWelding/...le.cfm?ID=1276I think Ceriated (Orange) and Lanthanated (Gold) are pretty popular among the inverter crowd... and I believe Miller is recommending Ceriated these days for use on their machines, and as a replacement to the Thoriated (Red) tungsten.-----------------------Carmen Electrodewww.CarmenElectrode.comand the boss blogs at www.JoeWelder.comall powered by www.Arc-Zone.com
Reply:http://www.aglevtech.com/About_Tungsten_Electrodes.htmlhttp://www.arc-zone.com/catalog/web_...t_id=3717_9630I get confused myself what color to use. I'm currently using orange and gold. As a nube I tend to be grinding that contaminated tungsten more than usual so I try to stay away from the red because of its hazardous properties.Dynasty 300 DX TigRunner, Weldcraft Crafter Series 310
Reply:I try to stay away from the red because of its hazardous properties.
Reply:Oh, and I forgot... Weldcraft has a new blend, "rare earth" color-coded gray... they say is getting really good results. Apparently they put it through a barrage of tests at the Miller lab.-----------------------Carmen Electrodewww.CarmenElectrode.comand the boss blogs at www.JoeWelder.comall powered by www.Arc-Zone.com
Reply:thanks carmen, great logo and name.
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsterPlay around with the Hi Freq. settings..Go from "less intense" to most..Maybe turn up the gas by 3 scfh incriments..(Don't trust any guage..They are only reference to what your doing..)Play around.. no machine is the same as another one.. ...zap!
Reply:I have switched over the shop to lanthanated and it is working out pretty well. Still have a selection of others on hand. The inverter machines came with ceriated and the students burned through that pretty fast. We avoided thoriated in the Navy due to the requirements on anything "radioactive". (I still like to weld with it). Risk assesment in Utah ed. hasn't caught up with thoriated yet, but I decided to switch over. Why not if the alternatives works just as well for us? I have also made some good deals on lanthanated because it tends to sit on suppliers shelves for a long time. We bought some this year packaged in wooden containers! Welds great.On our Idealarc's there is a reostat on the front designated "Spark Intensity" this is the frequency control adjustment.Jim
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsterI use the Red End tungestion for anything and everything..But thats just me.....zap!
Reply:I went in to the local welding supply store and asked what they had for tungston. Pure and 2% thorated. Nuttin else. So I bought some of both. I will try the 2% on aluminum.DavidReal world weldin. When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:I typically use red for most stuff. If I am ok with a wide arc on aluminum, I sometimes like green though. Red- 1) takes more heat than green2) Gets contaminated more easily than green, and doesn't clean itself up well.3) Holds a sharp point well4) increased tendency to splinter or "double-ball" on the end, when used on AC.Green-1) Can clean itself up well after dipping into the puddle.2) Won't hold a point, but aids in giving a nice wide arc when desired.3) Won't splinter during welding.4) Takes less heat than red, tends to melt easier.Grey-1) Tends to "double ball" and splinter while welding on AC.2) Doesn't clean up well like green does.3) Takes more heat than green does.Choosing tungsten is like choosing filler diameter or the tip size on a torch. It pretty much just comes down to preference of the welder.
Reply:Originally Posted by gnm109I could use more gas, perhaps. I'm already at 20 scfh, As far as I know, the HF on my vintage Idealarc 250/250 TIG/Stick is not adjustable, at least on the front panel.I wonder if changing the arc gap would make a difference?
Reply:OK, I build a 5" aluminum square box with 2" sides 1/8" thick. Just trying out my TA 185. Today I tried the red. I ground it to a sharp point and welded with it. It had stuff almost like hair or fuzz on the end. I then ground it to a point and put a flat on it. Still looked like a magnet with filings on the end after I ran a few beads. Then it spit a few pieces in my work. I went back to green and had a "ball".The green seemed to run a little hotter and the heat was definatly wider. I liked the way the red welded, but.....Both were 3/32 running around 100 to a max of 130 amps. I was changing frequencys quite a bit and using pulse. These may have helped it spit. I don't know, its my second day with this machine. Sticking with pure for now.TA 185 is " The Balls!"DavidReal world weldin. When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Today I am going to try 1/16 2% at a little less amps to see if it works better. I liked the focused arc of the 2%.The welder came with some grey tungston, I will try that too. I am alos going to order some of the newer types.DavidReal world weldin. When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:I NEVER use 1/16" tungsten. There's no need for it.
Reply:I tried the 2% thorated today 1/16". It worked great on aluminum and steel all the way up to 150 amps.My son is part of a radio controlled robot team at school. I voulenteered to do the welding. Its .040 alumimum. I will be using a .040 tungston.DavidReal world weldin. When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Originally Posted by David RToday I am going to try 1/16 2% at a little less amps to see if it works better. I liked the focused arc of the 2%.The welder came with some grey tungston, I will try that too. I am alos going to order some of the newer types.DavidThe 1/16 grey worked the best. It had a small ball and I use it on AC and DC. My son burnt it up at around 120 amps. Harbor freight has cerated or how ever you speel it 3/32, 5 for $9.99. I am going to 2 packages. I don't think I will be doing any aws Tig welding. Right now we are working on a robot at my son's school. DavidReal world weldin. When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:forget the harbor freight tungsten.http://tigstore.com/thumbnail.asp?of...&deep=1&cid=58Thermal Arc 185 TigHTP 200 MigCraftsman O/A1942 Bridgeport Mill12 Ton Hyd PressConsew Walking Foot
Reply:Nice web page, I bookmarked it.Thanks
Reply:$2.47 for 2% thoriated 3/32".... Is that price for a pack of 10? or for one stick?-----------------------Carmen Electrodewww.CarmenElectrode.comand the boss blogs at www.JoeWelder.comall powered by www.Arc-Zone.com
Reply:Each Piece. Harbor frieght are $2.00 each on sale.DavidReal world weldin. When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor. |
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发表于 2021-9-1 00:11:38