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Tungsten grinding for new Tig Welder

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发表于 2021-9-1 00:11:25 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
Just got my new Tig, a Hobart Tigmate, (my share of the tax return after getting a few months tax free from combat zone exclusion last year). Anyways I know it will be a long road to becoming proficient at welding, especially Tig but I am hooked on welding and the science behind it. I am barely proficient at SMAW and GMAW but working hard on getting there.Couple of questions; what techniques do you guys use to determine a proper tungsten grind? For the steel point vs aluminum and the rounded tip? Say for a 3/16 electrode.Also what do you guys think about the gas lenses and just how many different sizes collets and cups do you really need for a beginner/hobby welder to begin with. Who BTW one day wants to show up his younger brother the certified hotshot pipefitter and exotic metal pressure vessel welder fabricator?
Reply:Miller and Airgas actually recommend now just to sharpen the tip. They say they found you lose arc control by balling the end when doing non-ferrous (alum.).  You want to grind the long way with the length of the tungsten, not around it (radial). SEE step 5 in this link: http://millerwelds.com/education/tec...ips/setup.htmlI haven't used a gas lens yet but may purchase one so I can extend my tung and get a little farther reach with it.John -  fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!-  bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com
Reply:So with AC and alum it would be better to grind to a point not the ball. I will have to try it. Hopefully I can find someone or a place that will let me watch some TIG work so I can at least get a pic. in my mind. How exact do you have to be when grinding the point? I have heard everything from a needle point to sort of a dull pencil type point. As far as the aluminum welding I have also read that the ball will form by itself is this true as I have only messed around with mild steel so far. Just getting the hang of make a bead on a flat piece of metal. Its hard, damn hard.With a gas lens how far out can you let the electrode stick as opposed to a normal collet and cup?Bunch more questions but I like to learn from those who know.
Reply:I forget if it was Airgas or Miller but one recommended the point with a very small flat on the end. Saying it allowed more control vs. ball.John -  fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!-  bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com
Reply:I prefer the gas lens for all around use because it seems to break the argon up and allow it to flow better, as far as tungsten length, I normally don't hang out past the width of the cup (i.e. if a number 10 is 3/4" wide tungsten should not hang out more than 3/4") grinding tungsten I like mine to be needles using 1/8" 2% thorated with the grind marks running with the tungsten, as far as ground tungsten with aluminum well thats just your preference i've done it both ways and I can see benefits either way
Reply:Originally Posted by MicroZoneI forget if it was Airgas or Miller but one recommended the point with a very small flat on the end. Saying it allowed more control vs. ball.
Reply:The new inverter TIG power supplies can AC weld Aluminum with a pointed electrode and this give better arc control as compared to a balled tungsten.The older tranformer AC power supplies with naturally ball up the tungsten so most people pre-ball the tungsten prior to welding with these systems.A good all around electrode is 3/32" since it can handle up to about 250 amps DCEN, and maybe 150 amps AC (depending on the DCEP balance).  A gas lens and maybe a #8 or 10 cup.
Reply:cool, appreciate it the techniques and tips.military pilot; Bone driver, T-38s, other stuff Hobby fabricator
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