axle working stand ideas anyone

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I am doing some major work on a Dana 44 solid front axle and need a way to support it and still have it moveable.  I have a currently unused engine stand and I was thinking of making some sort of cradle with clamps for the axle tubes, and weld that to a piece of pipe that fits into the engine stand.   This would allow the axle to be supported at working height and allow me to rotate it for cleaning and working.  The work will include cutting off the inner knuckles and rotating them, installing a new carrier and gears, new axle shafts, etc as well as a good grinding down and paint.Has anyone seen pics of something like this that I could use as a template?
Reply:Ive seen jackstands with a ring gear cut in half and welded to the tops of the stands to cradle the tube, then a third stand to rest the pinion on and keep it stable.There alot of ways to do it, but your either gonna want something to rest the pinion on to keep it from spinning or a way to clamp onto the tubes.Have we all gone mad?
Reply:seems like 100 years ago, but I put some ARB air lockers and a new ring and pinion gear in my Dana 44s in my Jeep, and I used a pipe clamp ( I think that is what it is called) I googled and found http://www.toolfetch.com/pipe-stands.shtmlIt worked well.  Lucky for me my brother had it, but you might be able to make something similar or borrow one.  It worked great.Good luck
Reply:Simple design that would workRolling frame made out of 3" 11ga square tubing.  Sliding uprights to accomodate any width.Make the sleeve that rides on the carriage with enough clearance to allow it to slide, drill a hole, weld on a nut, then use bolt to tighten and lock the upright at desired width.  Pretty simple build.  To build the sleeve, make it out of 4 pieces of plate fitted with minimal clearance, tack, then weld.  Make it as tight as you want.  Maybe 1/8 clearance between sleeve and main carriage beam.'Bout as easy as falling off a log Attached Images"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:I built just about what you described a couple of years ago to build 8.8's in; pretty easy to build, and really makes life much easier!  I might have a detaield drawing floating arround here somewhere...I've also seen a pretty elaborate rolling cradle offered by Eastwood, I believe; have that picture at work and will post in the AM...Chris Attached Images
Reply:I like the clamping provision.  Simple u-bolt to keep the rear end from rolling.  I just figured on strapping and stuff to keep it steady."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:The plot thickensGet a bunch of people thinking about it, and before long it'll even brew coffee.  LOL"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:I've seen something like this in magazines.  Hope I didn't butcher it too much.  click for larger pic
Reply:Originally Posted by sn0border88There alot of ways to do it, but your either gonna want something to rest the pinion on to keep it from spinning or a way to clamp onto the tubes.
Reply:Originally Posted by NeighborsI built just about what you described a couple of years ago to build 8.8's in; pretty easy to build, and really makes life much easier!  I might have a detaield drawing floating arround here somewhere...I've also seen a pretty elaborate rolling cradle offered by Eastwood, I believe; have that picture at work and will post in the AM...Chris
Reply:I don't have the model with me here at work, but can create a drawing for you tonight for reference, if you like.  I 'think' I used 2" x 3" x 3/16" wall tube I have laying about, and split a few pieces of nylon tube to slide over the tube cut-outs to protect the rear ends from getting scratched up (built a few powder-coated units for the more 'detail oriented' guys I run with (anal just didn't quite sound right, LOL!)).I drilled holes in the tube that slides into the engine stand so I could swing and hold the rear at about a 45 degree angle, making it easier to weld the tubes to the center section (common mod amongst the Mustang crowd).  The only thing I wish I would have done is make it 1/4"-1/2" wider between the legs...So far, I haven't used U-bolts to hold it in place; since the saddles are pretty deep (tube radius), it doesn't act like it wants to jump out at me...The other benefit is having a rolling rear end cradle after your done, LOL!  I've had the rear end for my wagon on it for months now, and keeps it from being a shin-knocker, LOL!Chris
Reply:Originally Posted by Neighbors  I might have a detaield drawing floating arround here somewhere.Chris
Reply:Originally Posted by NeighborsI don't have the model with me here at work, but can create a drawing for you tonight for reference, if you like. Chris
Reply:Something else to consider:http://www.usatoolwarehouse.com/usat.../OTC-7020.htmland:http://www.usatoolwarehouse.com/usat.../OTC-7118.htmlThe arms are adjustable, and can be used for a variety of builds.  The arms mount to whatever you are building, similar to the jigs used by the manufacturer.In your application you can mount the arms directly to the differential face ( where the cover bolts to), or make an adapter mounted with bolts to the face, and then attached to the arms.  This will allow full access to building up the differential, and the axle assembly. Ford uses this tool for Transmission servicing, and servicing the Ford 9" which is a removable carrier unit as are some Dana 44 units.  For a dedicated axle teardown stand you might like: Attached ImagesPowcon 200SMPowcon 300STVictor Journeyman O/A & CartApex Disc SanderCraftsman Belt/Disc Combo SanderWayne Air Compressor3 Craftsman Drill PressesEmerson Horizontal BandsawPorter-Cable Porta-Band7 Angle Grinders4 Bench Grinders
Reply:Man I love this forum! This is a classic case of help to death - a good thing. I'm gonna build one too!