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ATV jug with broken bolt, weld up a stub, drop on nut, weld nut to stub, keep tig torch on and hold puddle on top of nut for about 30 seconds so heat will transfer into broken part, when nut turns from red to black touch with bees wax or parafin. This will pull into threads and lubricate for removal. Once cool unscrew.Peter Attached Images
Reply:Ive always welded a bolt onto the part, which sometimes was a real pita. I like the idea of building up a stud.Have we all gone mad?
Reply:There is a rod made specifically for that, I don't remember the manufacturer, but it has a ceramic coating on it to prevent side arcing on the threads. I used to use 3/32 7018 for that until I found the rods. they worked excellant.Lincoln Ranger 8 Lincoln 175 Drill pressLincoln 225 mig Plasma 8 ft brake 52" jump shear
Reply:Originally Posted by sn0border88Ive always welded a bolt onto the part, which sometimes was a real pita. I like the idea of building up a stud.
Reply:Originally Posted by castweldIt works.My lws showed me the composition of the rod used for stud removal, compared it to 312 stainless. 312 was very close in composition and only $12/lb. It worksPeter
Reply:Most of the do anything rods with unusual names are either 309L,310, or 312 stainless steel.
Reply:castweld,I personally believe your threads are some of the most helpful on this site. Thank you for all your informationMechanical Engineer
Reply:Yes, Castweld did a beautiful job----with TIG. I like the good shot of the red nut!The rods mentioned above are for stick welding and the coatings are to prevent arcing to the sides of the holes when the broken stud is deeply recessed; they are made by a number of different companies and do work well when needed.
Reply:Originally Posted by BLUE2KSScastweld,I personally believe your threads are some of the most helpful on this site. Thank you for all your information |
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