My utility trailer "RE" build!

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Hello fellers.I am starting on another trailer build!This will be a standard sized 6'10"x16' tandem axle utility trailerI will be cutting up this old boat trailer that the previous owner tried to make into a flat bed and reusing most of it, like the axles and springs, and the long 2x4"x1/8" square tubes that are now the main frame, will become the V shaped tongue of my new trailer!I will be working on this as I can get time over the next couple of weeks, and posting updates as I go, so please bare with me.The first pictures are what this trailer looked like when I brought it home!WARNING: these pictures are not very pretty! and then a few after I removed the deck that the previous owner had installed.I purchased a set of tires and rims to replace the ridiculous looking tiny Yugo wheels, and I have a set of nice tear drop fenders on order, "I would make them my self, but every time I have attempted it, they just didn't come out very pretty, ugly would be a better word" I will be making the backing plate for the fenders though!I have already purchased the wood for the deck, its 2x8x16' treated, and also all the steel that I will need for completing this build like the 2x2x1/8" angle and some 2x2x3/16" tube, some 2x4x3/16 C for tie down points and center cross members, but I will still need to get some 16g sheet for the fender backing plates!I will also pick up a new tongue ball coupler when I pick up the fendersIn one picture you can see once I removed the deck that was haphazardly installed, the metal used was some kind of racking pieces that where 4x8', and made of 2x3x3/16 C channel, this I will use for the side rails and front and back pieces to make the deck box area, and then I will use 2x2x1/8 angle for the cross braces and top rails!Well!Lets get started and see if we can turn this ugly duckling trailer wannabe, into a swan of a utility trailer! Ken. Attached ImagesLast edited by Ken Dennis; 05-20-2009 at 10:43 AM.#1. If you don't like what I wrote, or if it offends you, then don't read it!#2. I am living life the way I see fit, if you don't like the way I'M living, tough sh**!
Reply:More pictures! Attached Images#1. If you don't like what I wrote, or if it offends you, then don't read it!#2. I am living life the way I see fit, if you don't like the way I'M living, tough sh**!
Reply:I have found a guy that will sell me a nice fairly new set of heavy 5200#ea. Dexter trailer axles with springs, mounts and all hardware even the spring shackle mounts and cantilevers for a tandem setup for $200.00, and they are perfect for my design plan!So! I am thinking, why not turn this trailer, back into a boat trailer, sell it and buy those axles and the other stuff I would need out of the money I would get for this, and go that route.I have an extra winch tower and winch, and some bunk board brackets laying around I could throw onto this, throw some paint at it, put the tires back on that came with it and sell it!If it goes well, I could possibly get more money than I need for the other stuff thats needed, and a heavier set of axles with hardware in the proses.What do you all think?#1. If you don't like what I wrote, or if it offends you, then don't read it!#2. I am living life the way I see fit, if you don't like the way I'M living, tough sh**!
Reply:OK!Now I know that the trailer gods are working with me on this!I just got off the phone with a guy I know that lives the next town over from me that out of the blue sent me an email earlier today, asking if I would still be interested in a couple sets of 6000# 8 lug trailer axles, that he had offered to me over a year ago, but we never finished the deal, back then he was asking $250.00 for the straight axles and $120.00 for the drops.One set of straight axles with brakes, one set of drop axles with brake drums but the brake assembly had been removed, and a set of slipper springs to go with themHe said he still has them and would take $150.00 for all 4 axles, and would even deliver them tomorrow.Now that is a deal I can't pass up!So!I guess its sell this trailer and start this again, but with a whole new set of plans!I still plan on making this trailer back into a boat trailer, and sell it as such.And making a 16' utility, but now it will be a heavy duty utility.And so the saga continues!#1. If you don't like what I wrote, or if it offends you, then don't read it!#2. I am living life the way I see fit, if you don't like the way I'M living, tough sh**!
Reply:What do you see more of in your area - boats without trailers, or trailers without boats?I would think the converted flat deck would be easier to sell than a cobbeled and repair boat trailer.  Forge ahead and finish the project, or at least take care of the stuff most people can't do themselves, then sell it.  Then build the swanboat trailer you really want!  Member, AWSLincoln ProMIG 140Lincoln AC TombstoneCraftsman Lathe 12 x 24 c1935Atlas MFC Horizontal MillCraftsman Commercial Lathe 12 x 36 c1970- - - I'll just keep on keepin' on.
Reply:Ah!You have got me all wrong Mondo!I am going to build a utility trailer for myself, not a boat trailer, and to make this back into a boat trailer, it won't be cobbled together, I have everything that is needed to make it back into a boat trailer, some stuff that I picked up from a boat dealership that went out of business a few years ago, all new stuff!With the lakes we have around up north of me, people who live or have a vacation home there, tend to buy a boat without a trailer to save on money, cause they can either dock it at a lake side marina or they have a dock at their place on the lake, so when a used boat gets sold to someone else, that doesn't live up north or have a marina close by thats on a lake, they have to find a trailer to put it on, so boat trailers sell fairly easy, especially this time of year!So, the answer to your question would be-boats without trailers!#1. If you don't like what I wrote, or if it offends you, then don't read it!#2. I am living life the way I see fit, if you don't like the way I'M living, tough sh**!
Reply:I think your on the right track, sell the boat trailer!  I've worked on more than a few tube frame boat trailers and a lot are rusted from the inside. Had a customer bring one in once  you could hit it with a hammer and poke holes in it, try to weld on it and the wire would just push through it, outside paint wasn't as rough as yours. Tube seems to draw condensation inside of it bad enough, not to mention taking it and submerging it in water every once in a while.
Reply:Thanks afab!I test drilled a hole in the tube about one every 2 feet, top to bottom, to test the metal, and it seemed surprisingly solid, I will fill those holes in before I paint it of course!My axles will be here tomorrow afternoon!He also has a set of 4 Alcoa 16" 8 lug trailer rims with a new set of Firestone radial trailer tires LR- E, that he is willing to sell me for $250.00 for all 4, I might just as well get those too!#1. If you don't like what I wrote, or if it offends you, then don't read it!#2. I am living life the way I see fit, if you don't like the way I'M living, tough sh**!
Reply:The axles was delivered today!He didn't have the tires and rims with him, they are still at his dads house thats a good bit of a drive south from here to go get, but he is going to pick them up the next time he is down there.I wont need them for a while yet any way!The first pick is the drop axles, turns out that they are a set of Dexter 7000# axles and slipper spring sets, stamped into a plate on the axle!As you can see the brake assembly has been removed at some point, I will need to replace those, but the drums look good, just some surface rust that will need a turning to get smooth again.These are 72" at the spring centers, so they will work to make a 6' wide tween the fenders trailer out of.The next pictures are the straight axles, these are Hayes 6000#, according to an aluminum tag that was attached to them.They are a set that was removed from a new fifth wheel travel trailer that was in a wreck, and salvaged, the axles where not damaged, and all is in good working order, even the electric brakes on them work good.These are 70" wide at the spring centers and would work great for making an 8' wide deckover out of!Now to get that boat trailer put back together as a "boat trailer" and get it sold and out of the way! Attached Images#1. If you don't like what I wrote, or if it offends you, then don't read it!#2. I am living life the way I see fit, if you don't like the way I'M living, tough sh**!
Reply:Yep, you did good!  You can almost buy the brake assemblies, bearings and seals, etc. and still  only be close to the cost of one axle. I like the slippers for the heavier axles, the double eye hanger kit is the same used on lighter tandem set ups. If I'm seeing that right, they have spring pads on top and bottom of the straight axles? I would switch them to springs under.
Reply:I will need the extra distance "Hight" of the spring over, to make the deckover, for clearance of the tires under the deck.I was thinking of making the hangers myself, out of thicker metal than factory, I checked with my steel supplier, and I can get some "inside diameter" 4"x2"x3/8" tube, and cut one side to form the U shape needed, I would go to a 1/2" wall thickness, but he doesn't have anything that thick in at least a 2" inside width, and then just buy a heavy duty equalizer for use with the 2 eye springs, I could also make the shackles out of 1 1/2"x1/4" flat stock, and use some grade 8 9/16 bolts with lock nuts, factory is to use grade 5 bolts and 3/16" thick shackles and 3/16 wall brackets for the hangers.I did another trailer this way a few years ago, and its held up pretty well, but it was a 7000# max trailer with 2 3500# axles and springs and I used 4x2x1/4" for the brackets on it!#1. If you don't like what I wrote, or if it offends you, then don't read it!#2. I am living life the way I see fit, if you don't like the way I'M living, tough sh**!
Reply:I was just going through my suppliers list of available metals, and found that what I could do is use a rectangular piece of box steel that is actually a 5"x3" outside with a .500 wall thickness, and cut it to my desired length, then cut one side off to make the 4" and have a 4" tall, 2" inside and a 1/2" thick wall  bracket. that might be a tad overkill, but I would doubt that I would ever have a problem with it!Since those springs are 1 3/4" wide, it should work quite well.#1. If you don't like what I wrote, or if it offends you, then don't read it!#2. I am living life the way I see fit, if you don't like the way I'M living, tough sh**!
Reply:Update!I am getting those tires and rims this weekend!I will need to replace the studs in those axles I got out to longer ones, these are too short for luminum wheels.I have everything stripped off this boat trailer and its sitting up on jack stands "pics later"I will hit it with a sanding disc, primer it and shoot it maybe this weekend with some basic black paint, I have an appointment on Thursday for a cathiderization, the doc is talking putting a couple of stints in me, so I will have to wait and see how that goes before I make any more plans!I managed to find everything I need to put this back together right for the next owner, like a new bow tower, and a shinny new winch with cable, a full set of bunk board brackets, I will pick up a couple 2x6's and some marine carpet and make some bunk boards, and when done, all someone will need do is adjust everything to fit their needs.Then we can get started on this trailer of mine!I have decided on a design like the one in the picture below, a deckover, and it will be 16'x8' main deck with an adjustable 4' dove so I can either use it as a deckover with dove or lift the dove and have a 20' flat deck!A 2 position pin setup with the hinging point at the main frame using a 2"x1/4" tube and a 1 1/4" rod as the hinge, I will bevel the main decks frame end to allow the dove frame to clear it as it moves, cut 2-2" holes at each end through the side of the main frame, weld the tube in between it spanning across, add a set of brackets of flat 3"x3/8" stock to the dove frame end facing forward with 2-1 1/4" holes to accept the rod, run the rod through and tack it into place.I plan on drilling and tapping the tube near each end for grease Zerk's. I have a heavy duty scissor jack that I can use for the lifting mech, and make a set of pins with springs, and a pull handle like used on semi trailer sliding tandems for the locking pins.I haven't tried making an adjustable dove before, so this ought to be interesting! Thanks!Ken. Attached Images#1. If you don't like what I wrote, or if it offends you, then don't read it!#2. I am living life the way I see fit, if you don't like the way I'M living, tough sh**!
Reply:This is what I was trying to describe for the hinge, in case I wasn't quite clear on it! Attached Images#1. If you don't like what I wrote, or if it offends you, then don't read it!#2. I am living life the way I see fit, if you don't like the way I'M living, tough sh**!
Reply:I am still working on the details of what material to use for the main frame and hinge parts.All the trailers I have made so far have been lighter made, the heaviest was a 7000# 2 axle landscape type utility.Being that this will basically be a 12000# setup, would I be wise to use 8"x1/4" C channel for the main frame, and make the hinge out of something heavier like 3" pipe with a 1/4" wall and a 2 1/4" rod and use some 4"x3/8" plate for the brackets?#1. If you don't like what I wrote, or if it offends you, then don't read it!#2. I am living life the way I see fit, if you don't like the way I'M living, tough sh**!
Reply:You may want to look into the regs for your area if you plan to use those axles. In many states ANY trailer rated at over 10K will require a class A drivers license. PA is one that I am sure of. Also in PA if a trailer is tagged at over 10K originally you need the class A license. Doesn't matter if you register it lighter, If it was originally designed at 12K or 14K it's that way for life. I've gotten mixed answers from DOT on axles on built trailers. Some say that if the axles total over 10K you HAVE to do the title at the max combined weight, so 2 7K axles automatically equals a 14K trailer and will require the class A license. Some states it's only if the combined weight exceeds 26K AND the trailer exceeds 10K, in others like PA, regardless of the combined registered weight or actual weight of vehicle and/or trailer, if the trailer builders plate is over 10K you need the license.Also where I live if you "recycle" any parts, you need a bill of sale AND the original VIN # of the original vehicle. I got F'd with that with an old U-haul body I bought years ago and wanted to turn it into a small box trailer. With no original VIN # or paperwork it's useless. I'm sure I could just slap it on an existing trailer frame and get away without altering the title, but it's not worth all the BS to do that. The bill of sale for all the parts is to be sure you paid the tax on all the parts. The VIN # requirement is to cut down on trailers that are "rebuilt" from stolen trailers.
Reply:There isn't any need in Indiana for a class A unless the trailer is used for commercial use, and only if it is over 26000#I know this because I have been driving OTR trucks for over 23 years, and am required to know the law and do have a class A CDL with double and triples edorsements, so even in PA, I am covered! #1. If you don't like what I wrote, or if it offends you, then don't read it!#2. I am living life the way I see fit, if you don't like the way I'M living, tough sh**!
Reply:That latching mechanism for the adjustable dove tail has me intrigued. Seems like a huge amount of potential pressure and stress on the locking device itself. Be interesting to see what you come up with.
Reply:Its really simple actually!I am going to use a basic bridge support, and the locking pin setup exactly like what has been used on semi trailers sliding tandems for eons!In this illustration, the pins are in green, the pull handle in yellow, the pin spring and holder in red and the pin slider bracket is in blue.There will be only 2 pin holes, 1 for full up and the other in the dove down position. When you pull the handle, it pulls both pins out of the holes in the main frame under the dove, you release the handle and the springs push both pins back into place, when lifting or lowering and the pins are in between holes, just simply release the pin handle and crank the handle attached to the scissor jack and when the pins reach the next hole, they will automatically pop into place!  This is not exact, I just drew up a basic quick design, most of it will be like this but there is a lot that isn't shown, like the scissor lift and plates, or the plates for the pin pull, the handle mount and other brackets and supports.But this should give you the basic plan idea! Attached ImagesLast edited by Ken Dennis; 05-28-2009 at 12:49 AM.#1. If you don't like what I wrote, or if it offends you, then don't read it!#2. I am living life the way I see fit, if you don't like the way I'M living, tough sh**!
Reply:I'll be thinking on that . I think I have the concept down.
Reply:I kind of figured that if the slider pin system worked on semi trailers for all those years, that when the semi is loaded down to its max of 80,000#, and they don't budge when subjected to the strain when hard braking with just the trailer brakes, it should work just fine for my little 12.000# setup! #1. If you don't like what I wrote, or if it offends you, then don't read it!#2. I am living life the way I see fit, if you don't like the way I'M living, tough sh**!
Reply:I also should have mentioned that this setup will need to be in between the rails of the main frame, just about where this will go, there will be an axle spring mount, shackles and rear spring end , about a foot or so from the rear of the main deck frame end!Last edited by Ken Dennis; 05-28-2009 at 01:24 AM.#1. If you don't like what I wrote, or if it offends you, then don't read it!#2. I am living life the way I see fit, if you don't like the way I'M living, tough sh**!
Reply:Hey, I finally got the download on the picsIf you want sliding ramps, you might do it the way I built mine on my flatbed gooseneck.The intermediate brackets between the center of the side to side movement allow the ramp to be slid right or left, and never be totally unsupported.I haul up to 13000lb tractors on this kind of ramp setup, and never have had trouble.My SUPER CAD drawingI'll take pics of the real thing later.  Been in the sun all day long, and don't care to go back out right now.  I'm chillin' in front of the AC (dog's hoggin' it all) Attached Images"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:1" - 1.25" cold roll pin is adequate if brackets run this way."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Neat axles and trailer ideas! as a practical matter, most axles will only stay to gether a little under gross anyway, or maybe that is just my driving.... I like them overbuilt, as oposed to the crazy things you see on the road sometimes with the tires leaning in, or along the road with no tire.    Originally Posted by DSWYou may want to look into the regs for your area if you plan to use those axles. In many states ANY trailer rated at over 10K will require a class A drivers license. PA is one that I am sure of. Also in PA if a trailer is tagged at over 10K originally you need the class A license. Doesn't matter if you register it lighter, If it was originally designed at 12K or 14K it's that way for life. I've gotten mixed answers from DOT on axles on built trailers. Some say that if the axles total over 10K you HAVE to do the title at the max combined weight, so 2 7K axles automatically equals a 14K trailer and will require the class A license. Some states it's only if the combined weight exceeds 26K AND the trailer exceeds 10K, in others like PA, regardless of the combined registered weight or actual weight of vehicle and/or trailer, if the trailer builders plate is over 10K you need the license.Also where I live if you "recycle" any parts, you need a bill of sale AND the original VIN # of the original vehicle. I got F'd with that with an old U-haul body I bought years ago and wanted to turn it into a small box trailer. With no original VIN # or paperwork it's useless. I'm sure I could just slap it on an existing trailer frame and get away without altering the title, but it's not worth all the BS to do that. The bill of sale for all the parts is to be sure you paid the tax on all the parts. The VIN # requirement is to cut down on trailers that are "rebuilt" from stolen trailers.Ken, you need to make a drawing of the full ramp, from trailer to ground.  I can't really tell what your idea is.  If you're talking a jacknife kinda thing, or a one piece ramp, or..........Sorry, I'm not able to piece it together."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Thanks samm!I can't use cad cause I am cad illiterate!I drew those free hand in MS Paint on a blank canvas.I was thinking of running a piece of C channel above the pipe that will run across the center for the pin to run in and attach the pipe to it, or affix the pipe to the inside bottom of the C, my only concern is warping the darn pipe, I had already tried to make a long run of a piano type hinge attached to 2 C channels that where back to back, but warpage finished that idea, but anyway, either way, I think it will be plenty strong as just a pin and pipe setup, seen plenty of dump trucks with this type hinge!I think cold rolled is in order too!Wes!I already have title for this, it falls under salvage or reconstruction in Indiana!The heaviest that I plan on using this for is to haul a Ford 9n on it. most of the time, I will use it in the flat position, as it will be 20' long, just right for going and getting my steel from the supplier with! I also plan on putting a rub rail with stake pockets on it, and making a set of side rails, something like 4' tall with swing open tail gate doors.Never know when I might need to keep something in that can't be strapped down! I went ahead with these heavy axles for 2 reasons, one is because I could get them cheap enough, the other is because, just in case I ever do need to haul something really heavy, that would break a standard 7000 pounder!#1. If you don't like what I wrote, or if it offends you, then don't read it!#2. I am living life the way I see fit, if you don't like the way I'M living, tough sh**!
Reply:samm!The tail is not going to be a ramp as such, but just like in that picture I posted of the trailer with the dove tail, except on this one, the dove will be adjustable, so that the dove can be raised to make the trailer into a full flat bed.The main deck will be 16', the dove will be 4', and in its raised flat position, it will give me a 20' flat bed!The actual ramps will be removable, and will store under the deck, along the sides toward the front of the trailer.#1. If you don't like what I wrote, or if it offends you, then don't read it!#2. I am living life the way I see fit, if you don't like the way I'M living, tough sh**!
Reply:Here!Maybe this will clear it up, this is where I got the idea from, these trailers are made here in Indiana, and a friend of mine sells them, his place is called Zahm's trailer sales!Click on this link then scroll down to the section titled Adjustable Dovetail!http://www.cornprotrailers.com/DoveTailoptions.html#1. If you don't like what I wrote, or if it offends you, then don't read it!#2. I am living life the way I see fit, if you don't like the way I'M living, tough sh**!
Reply:I see what you mean now.  It looks like a real engineering problem as far as the latch goes.  It has to take the weight of the floor load if it's straight, or tilted. That looks like a mess.Have you been able to actually look at one?"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:This'll give ya a good laugh.I went out and took pics of the ramp brackets that I made on my flatbed.First off, the thing hasn't been moved in years, and it's backed into a bunch of cedar trees.Had to take a walk over the "deck" (what's left of it), lean over the back, and try to shoot up towards me in order to show the brackets and welds.I made these welds when I was first starting to weld.The brackets were welded to a piece of 3/8 flat in the flat position, then the flat with the brackets was welded to the trailer.  I didn't trust my out of position welding at the time (still don't)First pic is the spacing of the bracketsOther pics.........  the overhead horizontal welds are the best I could do at an overhead weld at the time (not much better now) and the vertical welds were actually flat welds on the brackets.If I remember right........  The welds on the brackets were made in the flat position with 6013, and the overhead welds were made with 6011.  Even back then, I had figured out that 6013 ran down your sleeves and neck, and the 6011 stuck like glueBeen a whileSometimes feel that I haven't advanced one iota since thenYuk it up Attached Images"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Yes I did!I got to see one that a customer ordered in, and I took down notes, and it was designed very much like what I will use!I will be using some very stout material in that section, the stress points have a somewhat like a cantilever effect, pulling on one spot and pushing on the other, at these 2 points, it will need some heavy gage material, with plenty of bracing. The pin system you should recognize, its basically just like a semi trailers sliding  tandem pin system.The one difference on this one from the Corn pro trailer that I looked at is, to raise the Corn Pro tail, it used an electric over hydraulic system, I wish I could afford that luxury, but like so many, I will just have to settle for human power to save on money!#1. If you don't like what I wrote, or if it offends you, then don't read it!#2. I am living life the way I see fit, if you don't like the way I'M living, tough sh**!
Reply:Yikes!What deck did you say you walked on? I think you are not giving yourself much credit, those welds look like they are holding up better than the rest of the trailer!Know exactly what you mean by running down your arm and neck, been there, done that! #1. If you don't like what I wrote, or if it offends you, then don't read it!#2. I am living life the way I see fit, if you don't like the way I'M living, tough sh**!
Reply:Another thing to consider is the plain old ugly Jane come along.  I see a lot of guys hold the ramps up with a come along, and they probably use 'em to raise the ramp after it gets to a certain angleHelper springs are available, but I can't remember where they are sold.  I put up a link a while back, but even then, the things were sold out"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:As far as the floor goes, I'd sure like to see a pic of how they're actually made by the trailer guys.I'd just copy their design if it was me"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:I suppose this is actually a 2 part thread, one part is putting that boat trailer back together, and the second is building that trailer.Got to do one first, so heres a couple of dark pics I took this evening, after I put everything away for the night, I have got a good start on the putting it back together, Well actually, tearing it apart for the cleaning and painting phase. In the first and last pic, I was trying out the new riser fit, and it looks good to me!"Notice that there are no holes drilled in that riser for the winch and bow stop, it is a new/never used one"In the second pic, I had to remove a couple of brackets that the PO had added.Third pic, just a shot from the rear.the fourth pic is one of the keel rollers that was left on this. Attached Images#1. If you don't like what I wrote, or if it offends you, then don't read it!#2. I am living life the way I see fit, if you don't like the way I'M living, tough sh**!
Reply:Originally Posted by farmersammAnother thing to consider is the plain old ugly Jane come along.  I see a lot of guys hold the ramps up with a come along, and they probably use 'em to raise the ramp after it gets to a certain angleHelper springs are available, but I can't remember where they are sold.  I put up a link a while back, but even then, the things were sold out
Reply:Originally Posted by farmersammAs far as the floor goes, I'd sure like to see a pic of how they're actually made by the trailer guys.I'd just copy their design if it was me
Reply:Update!I have a buyer for the boat trailer, it will be gone on Tuesday 6/10/09!I have had to put this off for now, but will resume the build in a short.I have put my efforts into that Lincoln Weldanpower, and can only afford to do one at a time at this point.Give me a few weeks and I will resume work on this!Thanks!Ken.#1. If you don't like what I wrote, or if it offends you, then don't read it!#2. I am living life the way I see fit, if you don't like the way I'M living, tough sh**!
Reply:The buyer didn't come until today to pick up the trailer.He was tickled to get it, and very happy to have to do a touch of work to it!All I left for there to be done was make a set of bunk boards.maybe add a set of fenders if he wishes to do so!In these picks!1- front 2- Backside, you can see I put new lights on.3- These are the bunk brackets I had laying around, he will need to clean them up and. make the bunks.4- All new hardware, even the riser! Attached Images#1. If you don't like what I wrote, or if it offends you, then don't read it!#2. I am living life the way I see fit, if you don't like the way I'M living, tough sh**!
Reply:How much did you sell the boat trailer for? How much do you estimate your new equipment trailer is going to weigh? Seems like you are going to have a lot of steel on the trailer(not like thats a problem) I also have an older weldanpower, just finished giving her a fresh coat of paint today and will be putting it up on CL in the next few days.
Reply:How much?$600.00How much weight?Approximately 2000# +or-I estimate that with those 6000# axles I should have a load capacity of at least 10,000# +or-Once I get it done, I'll roll it out to the truck stop and use the CAT scales to weigh it!#1. If you don't like what I wrote, or if it offends you, then don't read it!#2. I am living life the way I see fit, if you don't like the way I'M living, tough sh**!
Reply:I finally got those tires and rims home, the guy I was to get them off of hasn't been able to deliver them, so I drove over today and picked them up.They are a set of 4 matching Alcoa 8 lug Aluminum trailer rims with LT 245/75R16 load range E.Firestone Steeltex Radial A/T' tires mounted with great tread life left in them!The load capacity on these is 3045lbs, so they should work very well on this trailer build!I also got a set of 4 American Racing center caps and a full set of lug nuts with them.Not bad for $200.00 and an hours round trip drive aye! Pictures:1- Just got home with them.2- A look at the rims and tires.3- Tread depth looks to me like about 80*4- A look at the caps ands lug nuts. Attached ImagesLast edited by Ken Dennis; 06-14-2009 at 04:56 PM.#1. If you don't like what I wrote, or if it offends you, then don't read it!#2. I am living life the way I see fit, if you don't like the way I'M living, tough sh**!
Reply:Hey KenStill waiting for the pics to download, but I thought I'd ask a quick questionI got some wheels and tires for the disc, and the tires were marked trailer use only.  I always wondered what the difference was"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:samm!If the tire is marked "trailer use only", that means that they are not a speed rated or passenger rated tire, a tire that couldn't pass the standard safety ratings for passenger vehicles use, and those are probably a bias ply, notice how some tires are also marked "not for highway use" or "not for on road use" These rims I have where designed for use on a light to medium duty trailer or light to medium duty passenger vehicle, the tires I have are rated for light truck all terrain use.So, I could use these on say my old 3/4 ton truck if I wanted to!#1. If you don't like what I wrote, or if it offends you, then don't read it!#2. I am living life the way I see fit, if you don't like the way I'M living, tough sh**!
Reply:Man, those wheels are almost too nice to put on a trailer. I would definitely put those on the truck and the stocks on the trailer. Very nice score.Lincoln Promig 180
Reply:Originally Posted by willinthe985Man, those wheels are almost too nice to put on a trailer. I would definitely put those on the truck and the stocks on the trailer. Very nice score.