First SMAW weld issues - pics

admin

New weldor with a few questions regarding my first weld. I needed to fab an extension for my jack to lift my truck up high enough to replace a bolt in the spring shackle. I went to HD intending to buy a 4x4 but as I walked past the metal bin I thought - why not make it from steel. They didn't have tubing so I purchased a 3' section of 2x2x3/16 and pl - 3/16x2x3'-0.My welder is a Maxstar 91 DC TIG & stick. The rods I have are 5/64 6013, 1/8 6013, 3/32 6011, and 3/32 6010. I thought the 6010s would be the way to go but I couldn't even get those to light on 90A - they would either stick or if I drug the rod it would just fizzle. I assumed I didn't have enough juice to run them. Same story with the 6011s. I thought the 6010s were suppose to run at 65A.The only ones I could get to burn were the 5/64 6013 DCEP at 90A and I had to grind the joint to clean metal. I also had to strike the arc at the corner of the steel - if I tried it on the flat it would just stick.The other problem is I'm having trouble seeing the puddle. I had my hood set at 10. I went down to 9 but saw spots so I turned it back up to 10. Maybe that's not dark enough and that's why I having trouble. I guess I need to try setting it at 12 to eliminate the arc?Here are a few pics of the results.I think my biggest issue is not being able to see the puddle. If I can't see what I'm doing clearly I can't manipulate the puddle properly. I need to be able to see the joint also. At times I felt I was just welding blind and hoping I was staying on line. That doesn't seem right. I even have a correction lens for over 40 eyes.Also I think I should have went with 1/8" thick material.The welds have a few decent runs but many pitiful sections as well - especially at the starts. I think I can fix that if I can get the arc to strike properly and if I can see the puddle  clearly.Please feel free to offer constructive criticism. Any advice is sincerely appreciated. Those who say it cannot be done should stay out of the way of those who are actually doing it.
Reply:the provblem with 6010, is that its not a drag rod. 85amps should be plenty to run 6010 (DCEP) and 6011(ac). you have to use a whip motion, kinda hard to explain. when done right, 6010 can look amazing. 6013 is a low penetrating, sheet metal rod. my advice would be to go to tsc and pick up some 3/32 7018. its alot easier to run then 6010, and will give you better penetration (then 6013). biggest problem i see with your welds is inconsitiacy. practice, keep one stead pace. lot of farmers run 7014, ive never used it so i cant tell ya about it. if you clean the spatter  when the metal is hot, it will come right off.my opinion is not to use 6013 on ANYTHING thats goning to be critical ( anything that supports weight).
Reply:are you really gonna weld something to hold up your truck??if you have these questions you are not qualified to do that.not trying to be schittty.. you need a year of good practice and maybe then...
Reply:Agree with weldbead, if you are welding something critical.. defined as something that could cause serious injury or death if it fails, then I would suggest you don't try what you are doing... also if your welder is an inverter based rather than a transformer based machine it will not run 6010... end of story.  get 6011...   if you plan on being stubborn (aka stupid) then grind out those welds,  do practice till you can get a good bead and try again...Tiger Sales:  AHP Distributor    www.tigersalesco.comAHP200x; AHP 160ST; MM350P,  Spoolmatic 30A; Everlast PowerTig 185; Thermal Dynamics 60i plasma.  For Sale:  Cobra Mig 250 w/ Push-pull gun.  Lincoln Wirematic 250
Reply:How much do you need to extend them?Can't you just sit the jacks on some blocks instead of making them longer?
Reply:The maxstar is known for not running 6010 well at all, something to do with it being a inverter. 3/32 7018 gets my vote...the Maxstar runs it like a champ
Reply:Originally Posted by soutthpawAgree with weldbead, if you are welding something critical.. defined as something that could cause serious injury or death if it fails, then I would suggest you don't try what you are doing... also if your welder is an inverter based rather than a transformer based machine it will not run 6010... end of story.  get 6011...   if you plan on being stubborn (aka stupid) then grind out those welds,  do practice till you can get a good bead and try again...
Reply:Originally Posted by SR20steveThe maxstar is known for not running 6010 well at all, something to do with it being a inverter. 3/32 7018 gets my vote...the Maxstar runs it like a champ
Reply:Originally Posted by Baila La PinzaHow much do you need to extend them?Can't you just sit the jacks on some blocks instead of making them longer?
Reply:Originally Posted by sandersdThanks - that's very helpful.   But, doesn't 7018 have to be stored in an oven? Can it be kept in a sealed container or would it have to be vacuum sealed?
Reply:BTW for anyone that is interested - this is the issue with the truck I'm trying to fix. It's hard to do alone trying to wrestle the spring into position with one hand on a pry bar and push the bolt through with the other.I was washing the truck a couple of weeks ago and just happened to look inside the wheel well and noticed the bolt literally hanging by a thread. Can you imagine if I had been driving down the freeway and the bolt fell out?Bad, very bad...Those who say it cannot be done should stay out of the way of those who are actually doing it.
Reply:Originally Posted by SR20steveOpen a fresh pack and weld away...
Reply:Originally Posted by sandersdI could do that, but don't the remaining rods need to be stored in an oven?  Can they be kept in a sealed container or would it have to be vacuum sealed?Or, I could just throw them away, but that's like throwing money away. I like to avoid that as much as possible.
Reply:Originally Posted by jpmillermy opinion is not to use 6013 on anything thats goning to be critical ( anything that supports weight).
Reply:I'm going to try removing the wheel and lowering the axle from the frame. Hopefully that will accomplish the same end and be much more stable (safer).
Reply:Originally Posted by papaharley03No, don't throw the extra rods away. Keep them in a sealed container, and you can heat them for awhile in the oven before you use them the next time.Better yet, buy only the quantity you will need. Papa
Reply:Originally Posted by farmallThat's how I do shackles. A taper punch is a great help, and can be ground from a spare bolt. If you can get to both sides of the shackle you can tap a "tapered whatever"/bull pin/spud wrench/taper bar in one side to wiggle the spring into place and hold it while you clean up the spring bolt for reinsertion.
Reply:If it's not code work, 7018 kept out of natures wrath, is fine.Maxstar simply hates 6010, 6011 seems better but not perfect. Another vote for 3/32 7018 for your inverter.Lincoln Power MIG 210 MP ( boat anchor )Lincoln Weld-Pac 100 HDHobart IronMan 230Cutmaster 42Jackson NexGenSumner Ultra ClampsDWM120
Reply:I guess the only thing this machine is good for is sheet metal. Not really what I had in mind when I bought it (craigslist) but I didn't know enough yet and I'll just chalk it up to a learning experience. Thanks for all the replies.Those who say it cannot be done should stay out of the way of those who are actually doing it.
Reply:Originally Posted by sandersdI guess the only thing this machine is good for is sheet metal. Not really what I had in mind when I bought it (craigslist) but I didn't know enough yet and I'll just chalk it up to a learning experience. Thanks for all the replies.
Reply:Originally Posted by soutthpawalso if your welder is an inverter based rather than a transformer based machine it will not run 6010... .
Reply:Originally Posted by sandersdI guess the only thing this machine is good for is sheet metal. Not really what I had in mind when I bought it (craigslist) but I didn't know enough yet and I'll just chalk it up to a learning experience.
Reply:Originally Posted by jpmillerwhat is the reason for this. are they an AC only machine?
Reply:Originally Posted by SR20steveIf it's connected to a 220v power source it's a very potent machine. I have a 150 STH and have welded a bunch of 7018 with it, it runs it as good as any machine I have used. And in theory you are basically limitless when it comes to stick welding with the proper joint preparation. And it does DC TIG well too.
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWSteve it's an older version of the Maxstar. It's a 110v only machine so he doesn't have that option available.Manual for the Maxstar 91http://www.millerwelds.com/om/o207d_mil.pdfOriginally Posted by DSWI wouldn't go that far. Your biggest issue is that of the machines input. It's a 110v machine. Even the newer Maxstar 150's only crank out maybe 10 more amps on 110v power. Same with the TA 95S. Yes you will be limited compared to a 220v  machine, but it still has it's uses. To get more output you need to move up to a machine that will run on 220v power. That often limits the potability of the machine.With that machine maxed, you can run 3/32" 7018 and 7014 throughout most of the range. You might loose maybe 5-15 amps off the top end of those rods. That's more than enough to weld up to 1/4" with no issues with the right prep and technique. Some 7018's have a higher amp range than others, also 7018's have a tendency to be hard to strike some times if they have sat out and absorbed some moisture.Dropping down to 5/64 or 1/16" rods would help in some ways. You'll be able to run closer to the max suggested amps with those. You'd still be able to do up to maybe 1/4" with multiple passes, but thats pushing it a bit. 1/8"-3/16' would be a better top end with those rods.My guess is part of your problem is that you move too fast. It's a common problem with guys learning stick. It can be tough at 1st not being able to distinguish the puddle from the slag. Going slightly darker can sometimes help. If you have a cheep hood, that can add to the issue. One poster here, Gamble, recently commented on how much better he could see the puddle after simply getting to try a better hood. It does make a world of difference. You might even try a simple fixed shade hood if a better AD isn't in your budget. The lenses are cheap, and you can try a 10 or 11, or even a gold lens. many full time welders swear by the gold lenses.If you still want a bigger machine, keep your eyes open on CL for an old 220v Lincoln tombstone. The Ac only ones usually run between $50-150 used. The AC/DC ones can often be had for $100 more.
Reply:As I mentioned, you should be able to find a nice used 220v stick machine relatively inexpensively if you keep your eyes open if that's the way you want to go. Many guys prefer to go with mig because it's often a shorter learning curve and if you use gas rather than FC wire you don't have the slag issue. Again however go with a 220v mig. You'll hav ethe same low input issues with mig that you have here with stick if you don't. there are a number of good multi voltage 110v/220v migs out there now from the major name brands. Not cheap, but they offer a good choice between portability and power.If you want to continue with stick on this machine, 3/32" 7014 might be a good choice. It's a drag rod, so in a groove weld like you were doing you can simply set the rod in the groove and slide it along at the proper angle keeping the flux in contact with the steel. Figure you'll end up with maybe 6-8" of weld for the whole rod if your trave speed is close. Set the machine to max and go from there.As far as tig, 1/16" is doable, but tough as far as starting out. Your machine will limit you on the top end, so 1/8" is probably a bit too thick. I'd start with 3/32". It's thick enough you won't burn thru instantly, yet thin enough for your limited power and so you can learn control. I don't remember that machine having a pedal from looking at the manual yesterday.  If it doesn't have a pedal or remote, set your amps at about 65-70 for 1/16". Be sure to sand off all the mill scale from both sides because of how thin it is. you can pull the contamination right thru from the back if not. There's been any number of threads on learning basic tig. Try and see if you can find a few and read the basics. Post up picts as well as as much info as possible. Arc length ( should be about 1/8" -3/16" roughly to start), filler size, amp settings and so on. Scratch start tig is not the easiest way to learn, but it is doable with a bit of patience. Good luck.Edit:I'm not sure if anyone has suggested a class or not yet. You might look into one at a local tech school. Usually if you add up what materials, rods, electric and all will cost you, a class ends up stupid cheap before you even figure in the instructors time and the better machines you usually have at your disposal.Last edited by DSW; 10-02-2011 at 01:16 PM..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Get a gold fixed shade lense (10$ or so) ,and keep very clean/new clear cover plates in as much as you can, you wouldntt even believe how much better you are  able to see out of that..I dont use my autodark anymore..
Reply:sorry i havent posted any pictures yet. welding instructor wont let stick weld, as i am working on my TIG book.