Starting my flatbed

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I finally found someone who wants to buy my stock bed, so, now I can start my flatbed build.  I have only built 2 flatbeds and they have been on straight frames.  So I have a question.The outsides of my frame measures 45" in the front, and 37" in the rear.  They don't go straight to that dimension, but rather, they have 2 reduction points.  Does that make sense?  Kind of like a broken stick, rather than a straight stick.  So, my question is, should I try to match the exact angles of my frame rails?  Or, simply make straight ones that angle slightly in towards the rear?  The bed rails will be 3x4 box on top of the frames rails.If you don't understand this, I could draw a diagram.It's not what you can buy, it's what you can build.
Reply:Sounds like you have either a dodge or a chevy truck.   But here is what I did on my Ford chassis.  Since the frame rails raise up and then settle back down.  I took 2.5" by 6" Channel and notched out a 26" long section that was 3" tall to make up for the hump.  This still allows for the frame rails to have some strenght. Attached ImagesLincoln 300 Vantage 2008300 Commander 1999SA250 1999SA200 1968Miller Syncrowave 200XMT350MPA/S-52E/xr-15Xtreme 12vs Millermatic 251 w/30A  Millermatic 251 Dialarc 250 Hypertherm 1250 GEKA & Bantom Ironwokers
Reply:I don't think it really matters one way or the other JC - build it on a tapper or straight with properly located crossmembers to hit the stock box mounting points either way.  Look at both methods and pick the one that presents the fewest obsticles and will yield the best results.  Personally, I would probably lean toward straight to avoid having to deal with the angle and offset dimensions when it comes to mounting things.Nice contour job 'green' but that's a wierd place to mount a lightbar.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Green - right concept, wrong angle.  I'm referring to from looking at it from above, the frame rails taper toward the rear.  The tops are straight across, which will make it easier.  I was thinking of just going straight.  That way I wouldn't be changing the structure of the box tube.It's not what you can buy, it's what you can build.
Reply:Originally Posted by duaneb55Nice contour job 'green' but that's a wierd place to mount a lightbar.
Reply:Originally Posted by itsgottobegreenI didn't want to have to unwire it when I mounted the new body.  So I just left it hooked up and sat it on the frame rails.  JC what do you have for a truck?  Got pictures of the frame.  It would really help us out.
Reply:I would run it on an angle but use some 8" wide flatstock and match it to the frame and weld it solid to your angled channel for your bedthen you could still use your wood or nylon cushion between when u clamp it down.Then trim the flat stock to match the frame and cannel would tidey it up a bit..
Reply:Hey, that's a good idea.It's not what you can buy, it's what you can build.
Reply:What year gmc is it?  Is it a short bed, long bed, dually?  I am trying to remember how we mounted bodies on older pickups when I used to work for r+b steel.Lincoln 300 Vantage 2008300 Commander 1999SA250 1999SA200 1968Miller Syncrowave 200XMT350MPA/S-52E/xr-15Xtreme 12vs Millermatic 251 w/30A  Millermatic 251 Dialarc 250 Hypertherm 1250 GEKA & Bantom Ironwokers