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ive got myself a section of railway iron that im going to cut two peices about a foot long and then weld them together at the base.my question is what electrode(stick) should i use? i have some 6013 and some 7018 and was really hoping i could use the 7018.im welding them together at the base because the gap created between the tops of it makes it easy to hammer things to a curve. hence a basic anvilhttp://datingsidorsingel.com/
Reply:7018..But its gonna be brittle.. You may need to anneal it after......zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:If its cast steel, use the 7018 and smile!  DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Railroad track has carbide in it..I think pulser did a metal "mock up" of what its made out of at one time or another.....zap!Last edited by zapster; 09-18-2007 at 05:48 PM.I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:annealing is new to me. what do i need to do this?http://datingsidorsingel.com/
Reply:A torch and air...Heat welded area red..Let cool...Repeat.....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:RR track is usually something like 1070 rolled steel.  I have welded it with 7018 using both pre & post heat.  But the most I have done is to weld on a pc of 1" sq so that it would sit in the hardy hole of my anvil.  I did try 6011 and it just crackedThe really old stuff is wrought iron with very little carbon in it.  Blacksmiths love that stuff.RR track makes a rather springy anvil for anything but light work.  I would prefer a heavy block of mild steel or some heavy shafting.If you can get your hands on a RR axle - 6" to 8" dia, that would be nice.  The RR company might not think so however.  355# Hay Budden3# Hofi HammerPropane ForgeIdealarc TIG 300/300AllStates Oxy Propane torchSmith Little Torch
Reply:As discussed in this previous post, http://www.weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=14460&page=2 ,rail is likely around 0.8% carbon, which is alot of carbon.  As I understand it, the microstructure of rail is a very fine pearlite, which is strong, tough, and wear resistant.  This structure is generated by controlled hot rolling and cooling conditions.On the other hand, rapid quenching of this steel, as occurs in HAZ next to a weld will result in the formation of hard and brittle martensite and very likey underbead cracking, particularly if hydrogen contamination is present from oils or moisture.  Generally for plain carbon steels like 1020, 1030, 1040, etc., it is recommended that as carbon increases above about 0.4% (1040) preheat and slow cooling be used to help avoid hardening/cracking.I guess you won't know for sure till you try it, but in theory, you would want to preheat and slow cool.  Don't know the rule of thumb for preheat but am guessing around 500 F.  As for the rod, 7018 may be ok, but a more ductile rod like 309 SS or a high nickel rod may be more forgiving.Maybe you could do an experiment for all of us.  Weld it with no precautions and see if it holds up, and if it is too brittle, break/cut it apart and reweld the other two unaffected edges with the preheat etc.
Reply:i mite actually do that pulser. when i get them cut to the right lengths i will weld them with 7018 and post the resultshttp://datingsidorsingel.com/
Reply:If you have some available 9018, 10018, or 11018 might be a little more forgiving. I welded a hunk of RR iron in to my buddys truck with 9018, and it is nice as pie.Disclaimer; "I am just an a$$hole welder, don't take it personally ."
Reply:Tozzi is right HIGH carbon use the 90 or 100 or 110 and then anneal in the old days the RR used oxy act and gas welded the rails together and built up the spots worn by spinning drive wheels
Reply:Preheat that sucka to around 900 degrees, i would weld it with some 99 nickel. then maybe do some post weld heating around the joint. If you can bury the joint in kitty litter. This will dramatically slow the rate of cooling and you should come away with a nice ductile sound weld.
Reply:Originally Posted by trwatksTozzi is right HIGH carbon use the 90 or 100 or 110 and then anneal in the old days the RR used oxy act and gas welded the rails together and built up the spots worn by spinning drive wheels
Reply:Nonstructural use/no hazard use: preheat to 300F to 500F, use 7018, hold at temp for an hour or so, then slow cool (bury in insulation). If the weld is real heavy (more than 1" or so in thickness) hold longer at temp before cooling.Hold the temp however you need to: torch, put in the oven, use an electric heating element, whatever. You arn't looking for red heat or anything, just keeping it hot enough for hydrogen to diffuse out.