Help with Uphill Vertical

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This is my first post here, I am totally green at arc welding uphill. I have done some in school years ago, but am having a hard time getting things right. I'm using a Lincoln AC-225 buzzbox with a Hobart 1/8 7018-1 rod. I have the machine set to 120. My process was a weld bevel on the 6x8 tubing 0.375 wall, then my first weld was a vertical stringer followed by a weave with quick through the middle and pause on each side. It looks to me like it's not laying down enough. Can you tell me what I am doing wrong? Thank you
Reply:Well, Trooper, don't get too upset about your abilities. I've seen a lot of welders that called themselves professionals that couldn't do any better and some not as good. Get both hands on the stinger, prop one or both elbows on something to help steady your hands, and practice. and you will get the hang of making really smooth welds. I actually hold the rod with my left hand in front of the stinger and try to prop that elbow on something. I've cooked a lot of lefthand gloves doing that.Your description of your weave is the way to do it. Looks to me like all you need is some practice to smooth out the humps. That is the right profile for a vertivle up weld with 7018.
Reply:One spot almost to the bottom is nice and flat.  You got it, just a little more practice.  You have "clicks" for amps correct?When you got it, the slag will come right off with a tap of the hammer.Pause at the sides, move back into the puddle then up, pause.....Don't pause in the middle at all,I did some today.  My camera batteries died.  Pics next time I go there.  After looking at the picture, did you grind the metal before welding?DavidLast edited by David R; 08-28-2008 at 04:47 PM.Real world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:By clicks you mean the switch for the buzzbox to bump up the amperage??And yes, I ground down the sides of the stringer before the vertical up weave. I prep any metal I can get access to before welding, all the time. I had a box of Esab E7018-1 yesterday for this process, but either the rods had gone bad or I was missing something. These pics I posted today are from a fresh batch of Hobarts that I heard where good. And, I agree... they are easier to work with.
Reply:Is there anyway that you can use 3/32" wire for your vertical?  When I weld in the field I like to use smaller wire because it is less metal that you have to carry.  You usually have to run a extra pass but it looks alot better...Just a thoughtJonesy
Reply:The weld looks pretty good.  For starters a 7018 is designed to run on DC+  Considering you did that with an AC buzzbox I think you did great.  If you can find them Murex brand 7018AC rods will burn nicely with the little lincoln machines.  Infact they are the only AC designed 7018 that I have used that actually ran well.  Looks to me like all you need is practice and a DC machine.  Good luckI'm a Lover, Fighter, Wild horse Rider, and a pretty good welding man......
Reply:Excalibur 7018 runs just as good on ac as it does dc. It is also the easiest to use most forgiving 7018 I have ever used. It like to go up, lol. I wouldn't trade you ten lbs of it for 100lbs of Atomarc. Harris 7018 is comparable to the Excalibur. I haven't tried the Hobart or Murex as nobody local carries them. McKay is also very good and if I remember correctly has the same parent company as Hobart and Miller.As for your weld and technique - what Oldtimer said. I routinely repair the work of so called pros who can't do it that well. Jonesy's point is an excellent one. The smaller electrode is easier to control. Learn with the little ones and once you have them down move to the next size and you will be amazed how much easier it is for you.Depending on what Gustav does I have some monster uphill welds to do in the next few days. Once I am able to get them done I will take pics and post them.A little more practice and you will have it down pat.The difference between art and craft is the quality of the workmanship. I am an artist.
Reply:like other have said your not that bad. Keep burning rod and you'llbe great. To settle any confusion the manufacture should call 7018ac rods 7018lv. I've seen 1 company label them this way. All 7018 rods will run on AC. However, entry level buzzbox welder run at a lower voltage than engine drives and industrail machines. Some will run 7018 some won't. Line voltage suppling the machine can make a difference.  The 7018AC rods will run along at a much lower voltage.Last edited by tresi; 08-28-2008 at 10:11 PM.
Reply:Originally Posted by Jolly RogerExcalibur 7018 runs just as good on ac as it does dc. It is also the easiest to use most forgiving 7018 I have ever used. It like to go up, lol. I wouldn't trade you ten lbs of it for 100lbs of Atomarc. Harris 7018 is comparable to the Excalibur. I haven't tried the Hobart or Murex as nobody local carries them. McKay is also very good and if I remember correctly has the same parent company as Hobart and Miller.As for your weld and technique - what Oldtimer said. I routinely repair the work of so called pros who can't do it that well. Jonesy's point is an excellent one. The smaller electrode is easier to control. Learn with the little ones and once you have them down move to the next size and you will be amazed how much easier it is for you.Depending on what Gustav does I have some monster uphill welds to do in the next few days. Once I am able to get them done I will take pics and post them.A little more practice and you will have it down pat.
Reply:I also say it looks pretty decent. My suggestion is on your tie-ins.When you are done the rod, tail-out up the center. Then, when you re-start, start in the middle about 1/2" above the stop, let it warm with a medium arc as you travel down to the tie-in. As you get close, come over to one side, and pause there at the tie-in spot for just a second. Then, travel across the middle in a downward crescent to exactly follow the contour of the crater you left.The reason to come over to one side is to allow better visibility of the crater edge you are trying to tie into. Most go into the middle and get lost trying to get back into the weave technique.
Reply:the weld oesnt look bad. i weld everyday around people that weld everyday and some cant do as good as you. when i run my vertical (uphill) weld i run my welder anyhere from 95 to 110 with a 1/8 rod. to aviod the high crown on your weld try slownig your travel speed up so that your rod will burn tno the metal deeper. when your whipping fom side to side try to keep a close upside down horshoe pattern with a pause on each side for about 1 second. your slag mey look like its ugly but underneath t should clean p very smooth. now for running my 3/32 7018 rod i run my welder on 84. it sounds low but it works well. try that out and tell me how that works or you,
Reply:By now I bet Trooper is able to run 7018 vertical up while blindfolded, with one hand on his back and standing on his head... XD XD. He has gotten like +3 years of practice to get there....Mikel
Reply:UTP 7018 is verry compareable to atom arc and i believe better than lincoln and is less expensive than both they sell it in 44lb box and i get mine for 85.00 a box as opposed to 150.00 or more for the otherLincoln Pro Core 125Lincolin sp 100Miller Big 40Lincoln Idealarc SP250miller matic 212http://www.facebook.com/hdwelding?sk=wallwww.hdweldingbeds.com
Reply:yeah, the weld looks passable and that's about it.   the disconnect i am seeing here is the size of the members and the amount of welding.  28 in's per joint (single pass).   i don't know how many have tried welding that top joint where one member runs into the radius of the other but i have.  so my question would be.   why are you using a cheesey ac buzzbox and how many years do you have to get this done.also, if you are having this much trouble doing that vertical pass, (which is under conditions that can only be desribed as optimal;  you can sit on a bucket and rest your elbows on your knees)  my question would be how are you going to handle the overhead down below.so, all that said, you should be using a wire feeder and i can't believe that anyone would have you doing it otherwise.   you'll probably need to make ten passes to close the top and bottom.  good luck.
Reply:haha;  well i should have checked the date of the post.  do you suppose he's still welding that thing together?   that'll teach me.