First Timer -Tig

admin

Had a go at trying Tig today. I have Migged/flux corred and arced before. This defiantly takes the cake.   Sorry no pics  First thing i tried was some 1/8 plate steel.100 Amps (i can't believe that machine only goes up to 100 amps)1/8 Tungsten (i think that is what the size wasNo filler rod (i know i know... I didn't have any around)Around 15-20 CFPH ArgonAt first i couldn't figure out how to get it to make a puddle. Then i figured out i didn't even start my Arc if thats what you call it. What was happening was i was getting this really small blue lighting bolt coming out of the tungsten. The reason was because i wasn't using enough amps ..... not putting the pedal down far enough. I figured out at the first you need to basically put the pedal all the way down. I don't think i ever changing it though when i did get it started, i kept it where it was. I was doing T-joint weld (fillet) i noticed that the top peice melted first so i moved the torch down and then i got both sides to meld and i kept doing this all the way down in a weave motion. Worked pretty good  So i just need some tips on what i should be doing , mostly with the foot pedal. Also i have to weld this small peice and yes i did try it today and worked not to bad. I'll show you later what i need.
Reply:it's  PRACTICE....ect......ect....takes some  time but it wil come...then add filler      just time like driving the car  work the pedal feel the pedal
Reply:100 amps and 1/8" steel is about right.  I am using the 185 I have now at full tilt but one filler rod length at a time, then It cools while I change pieces. I am welding 1/4" pipe to a 1 1/4" flange on the inside. Yeah, I got a water cooled torch.  Probably couldn't do it with out it.DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Originally Posted by David R100 amps and 1/8" steel is about right.  I am using the 185 I have now at full tilt but one filler rod length at a time, then It cools while I change pieces. I am welding 1/4" pipe to a 1 1/4" flange on the inside. Yeah, I got a water cooled torch.  Probably couldn't do it with out it.David
Reply:Try some smaller tungestion..1/16"...3/32"  is all I ever use..1/8" for 1/8" is overkill..Less is more in this case.. ...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Originally Posted by BikespotDoes it really matter how far the tungsten should stick out? I had it at like 3/8" so i could see what i was doing, because the cup gets in the way to turn the torch to a smaller angle.
Reply:As soon as you start seeing any coloration in the tungsten, the stickout is too far, and the shielding gas is not doing its job.  3/8 is about as far out as I would go without a gas lens.
Reply:Mine sticks out up to where the ground edge meets the diameter of the tungestion.....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsterMine sticks out up to where the ground edge meets the diameter of the tungestion.....zap!
Reply:Originally Posted by David Rwhat he said.  David
Reply:Like this..Where the tungestion is seen is where the grind starts..Don't matter what size cup you use either.....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsterLike this..Where the tungestion is seen is where the grind starts..Don't matter what size cup you use either.....zap!
Reply:The end should be ground 1 to two times the diameter of the electrode.  The sharper, the more concentrated the arc.  A small flat (.020-.045") may be added to get rid of the teeny point.DavidYou are having fun now!Real world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...ur-skills/tig/ try there:  a few videos are on that site that can help get you on your way, and it's FREE!Have a Jeep Cherokee?  Click Here!
Reply:Day 2-Sh*t i just noticed something. I cant confirm this forsure but i think i was using aluminum filler rod 4043 ... cant say for sure because the 4 at the begining is melted off from the piece i brought home. It looks like aluminum filler too. Today i didn't do to bad. I started using filler..... well the wrong filler  and 3/32 Tungsten. I did grind it to what Zap said and it worked good  but it keep changing back into a flat. I contaminated it a few times, i noticed tungsten isn't that strong because when grinding it broke off. I need to find some kind of thin gloves to feed the wire with. It get really hot fast if i don't use a glove on the filler hand. Also i'm having a little trouble feeding it through my hand right now i just stick out enough and keep it and my hand. I will practise though on feeding it.  Now my big problem is when i add filler sometimes the filler rod at the end turns into a big blob and doesn't come off the rod.   I'm not to sure what i am doing wrong there. Other than that when i did have success i had not to bad welds.
Reply:This defiantly takes the cake.Well, it can't be that hard.
Reply:i had the same problem with the filller blob when i started welding tig. i was holding a far too extreme work angle on my torch and i was directing to much heat to the filler before it hit the puddle. the puddle melts the filler not the torch. keep the tungsten close to the puddle hold a 5 - 15 degree angle on the torch and back the filler wire off after dipping it in to the puddle. not so far that you are outside of the envelope of gas but far enough away that you are not preheating the rod causing it to blob like that. i hope this helps
Reply:Originally Posted by noobiexi had the same problem with the filller blob when i started welding tig. i was holding a far too extreme work angle on my torch and i was directing to much heat to the filler before it hit the puddle. the puddle melts the filler not the torch. keep the tungsten close to the puddle hold a 5 - 15 degree angle on the torch and back the filler wire off after dipping it in to the puddle. not so far that you are outside of the envelope of gas but far enough away that you are not preheating the rod causing it to blob like that. i hope this helps
Reply:Feed the rod into the front of the puddle.  If everything is right, it will go where it needs to.  The metal follows the heat.  Aluminum or steel.I have recently found that I can see a 1/8" tungsten better, so I don't contaminate it as much.Have a blast!DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.