Pure vs Ceriated

admin

Ok so I'm semi new to tig welding alumin. and I've heard different sides as to which is better.  I also heard 1.5% lanthanated was pretty decent as well and holds a very stable easy to start arc. Anyone have any ideas on the two or even three types of tungsten? I.E. pros / cons or personal exp.Any helpful tips hints to welding alum. would help and be greatly appreciated.Thanks!
Reply:Just ran my first tig beads on Al. today, will post pics later, I used 2% Thoriated (red) and couldn't be happier with how stable and focused the arc was, if anything I'd like a less focused arc to widen it and help establish the first "bridge". I have some Ceriated that I'm going to try tommorrow just to see what happens, but so far thoriated seems to work well for every metal I've gotten my hands on.
Reply:All I ever use is red end on everything.....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:I really can't tell the difference between cerated and Red.  I had one piece of with a gold end that didn't contaminate as easily.  I will try that one again.  If you have an inverter, ditch the pure.I tried one lanthanated (brown?) I got from diamond ground.  Its supposed to ball, so I don't use it.  A point works better for me.DavidLast edited by David R; 01-06-2008 at 10:13 AM.Real world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:I am with Zap. All I ever use is Red.. i have tried the gold and found it worked good but all my LWS ever has on their tuck is red when they come..
Reply:At my LWS, its red or green.  I buy my cerated from weldingdepot.com.  Its about 2/3 what I pay locally if they had it.DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:I have been afraid to order online from them.. I wanted to make sure it was quality stuff. The LWS needs to sell a little to me since they stop..
Reply:When I bought my Syncro 200 from a LWS near my home town it came with Ceriated in the box. Later, when I called the LWS to order some more Ceriated or Lanthanated, they didn't even know what I was talking about. I think you should try the ceriated or the lanth before settling on red because of the health concerns. You may have to go to the INTERNET to get it, but most of the major INTERNET suppliers stock it. You have to ask yourself, if red and green was the best thing since Peanut Butter, why did they invest in the research and development to manufacture the others ??
Reply:6010 and DavidR you are right .. I just ordered some ceriated from weldingdepot.. I will try it when I get it..
Reply:as said, pure (green) isn't a good choice for inverters. they're designed around rare earth tungsten and often there can be arc starting issues with pure. the rare earth tungstens have a lower electron work function (eV). the lower the eV, the lower the voltage required to get an arc start. result is rare earth start easier than purepersonal opinion (own an inverter but use a transformer fairly regularly too)  with thoriated (red) as a bench mark...ceriated (orange or grey) works well but i found a tendancy towards 'frosting'. this means arc starts can become a bit erratic with time unless the tip is frequently dressed. at higher amps the tip doesn't last as long as with thoriated.lanthanated (1% black, 1.5% gold, 2%blue). no frosting, i've not used gold but found black to be around equal to thoriated (with DC) and blue to last longer before tip degredation requires a re-dressing. both work better than thoriated with AC (less arc wander as the tip degrades. they also seem more resistant to contamination)zirconiated (white or brown) is designed for AC use with a rounded tip. the arc will be broader than with a pointed tip BUT arc stability is way better than with a pointed thoriated (as the tip degrades thoriated tends to 'split'- the tiny imperfections give multiple facets for the arc, resulting in arc wander). if you frequently redress to keep a pointed tip then not an issue however once 'rounded' a zirconiated will not require dressing unless contaminated (dipped into the weld/filler). having said that it's very resistant to contamination (if i 'dip' it lightly i can just strike an arc on a piece of scrap and it'll 'burn' off the contaminates without requiring a redressing)as others have said, mail order gives a wider selection at lower prices (i would rather use my LWS but i can save at least 20% on line for the SAME brand of tungsten). all i use now is 2% lanthanated (DC and AC if i want a sharp tunsten) and zirconiated AC GBS, there's loads of info in the archives here and a good beginners guide at...  http://www.millerwelds.com/education...tips/TIG_tips/ but generally keep it clean (reserve a stainless brush for cleaning Al oxide ONLY, wipe filler with scotchbrite before use)
Reply:Originally Posted by David RI really can't tell the difference between cerated and Red.  I had one piece of with a gold end that didn't contaminate as easily.  I will try that one again.  If you have an inverter, ditch the pure.I tried one lanthanated (brown?) I got from diamond ground.  Its supposed to ball, so I don't use it.  A point works better for me.David
Reply:Originally Posted by hotrodderas said, pure (green) isn't a good choice for inverters. they're designed around rare earth tungsten and often there can be arc starting issues with pure. the rare earth tungstens have a lower electron work function (eV). the lower the eV, the lower the voltage required to get an arc start. result is rare earth start easier than purepersonal opinion (own an inverter but use a transformer fairly regularly too)  with thoriated (red) as a bench mark...ceriated (orange or grey) works well but i found a tendancy towards 'frosting'. this means arc starts can become a bit erratic with time unless the tip is frequently dressed. at higher amps the tip doesn't last as long as with thoriated.lanthanated (1% black, 1.5% gold, 2%blue). no frosting, i've not used gold but found black to be around equal to thoriated (with DC) and blue to last longer before tip degredation requires a re-dressing. both work better than thoriated with AC (less arc wander as the tip degrades. they also seem more resistant to contamination)zirconiated (white or brown) is designed for AC use with a rounded tip. the arc will be broader than with a pointed tip BUT arc stability is way better than with a pointed thoriated (as the tip degrades thoriated tends to 'split'- the tiny imperfections give multiple facets for the arc, resulting in arc wander). if you frequently redress to keep a pointed tip then not an issue however once 'rounded' a zirconiated will not require dressing unless contaminated (dipped into the weld/filler). having said that it's very resistant to contamination (if i 'dip' it lightly i can just strike an arc on a piece of scrap and it'll 'burn' off the contaminates without requiring a redressing)as others have said, mail order gives a wider selection at lower prices (i would rather use my LWS but i can save at least 20% on line for the SAME brand of tungsten). all i use now is 2% lanthanated (DC and AC if i want a sharp tunsten) and zirconiated AC GBS, there's loads of info in the archives here and a good beginners guide at...  http://www.millerwelds.com/education...tips/TIG_tips/ but generally keep it clean (reserve a stainless brush for cleaning Al oxide ONLY, wipe filler with scotchbrite before use)
Reply:Ok so I had some free time as was messing around for fun and here are some results( Used 1/16th pure was only avail at time)