Welding fittings on 55 gallon drum

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I'm building a small wood fired outdoor boiler to heat my shop that uses a 55gallon drum as the water jacket. I need to weld some fittings into the side of it to plumb the water lines to. I'm hoping I can just use some standard 3/4 inch black iron ( as we call them around here) nipples. I have a Miller Thunderbolt 225 AC DC and a Hobart 140 mig with flux core wire. I have CO2 for the Hobart but no regulator yet. Soon I'll have a scratch start TIG powered by the Tbolt.  My questions....First, is it possible to weld cast iron fittings to a steel drum with my equipment?Second, if not, what type of fitting would work?This is for an "open system" boiler, no pressure build up. Thanks in advanceGumpSafety 3rdGump
Reply:Those black iron fittings your talking about are not cast iron, there just carbon steel. The scratch start TIG would get the job done just fine.
Reply:In my experience the threaded fittings are a hodge podge of good to garbage in the weldable range. You won't know until you try one from any particular store/source. Most weld fine, some just bubble, spit and disappear into a porous glob. Depends on where your local source gets their fittings."The things that will destroy America are prosperity at any price, peace at any price, safety first instead of duty first, the love of soft living and the get rich quick theory of life." -Theodore Roosevelt
Reply:Most home supply stores and lumber yards will have cast iron fittings. You could go low tech (A/O) and simply braze these on.Got an oilfield supply store handy? They will have the steel fittings. Flux core will do what you want with these.
Reply:Originally Posted by OldtimerMost home supply stores and lumber yards will have cast iron fittings. You could go low tech (A/O) and simply braze these on.
Reply:I have had great results from 6011 & 7018 on the "black pipe" - nothing special about it.Hobart LX235Victor 250 Oxy-Acetylene Rig (welding and cutting)Bobcat 773F-350, 1999, 4x4, 16' 10K# trailerOutdoor Wood Burner - 10 cords/year
Reply:What you want to use are forged fittings. What machine are you most comfortable with the TB or the 140?
Reply:The thin thickness of the 55 gallon drum would be tough to stick weld...but possible with maybe some 3/32 6010. I would clean the crap out of it and TIG it. Cut the threads off the nipple put a bevel on in and weld away.
Reply:Is this barrel clean? You need to make double sure that it is or BOOM you'll be gone.A young green pipe welder asked an old salt one day...How can I make the weld on the bottom of the pipe look like the top.......The old salt replied....Screw up the top......
Reply:I know the "black iron pipe", made in China and sold at Home Depot is indeed just a mild steel welded pipe.  Can the same be said for all the fittings?If you do have to joint a cast part to a steel part, consider doing it with threads.  In otherwords, weld a bung to the drum and then thread in whatever you need.As for the drum itself, keep in mind there are various thicknesses available.  The thin stuff will warp like crazy if you try to weld it in one pass.Con Fuse!Miller Dynasty 350Millermatic 350P-Spoolmatic 30AMiller Multimatic 200Hypertherm PowerMax 1000G3Miller Maxstar 200DX
Reply:i've tried welding the black iron pipe before.  if you try to weld the threads its noit going to work.  the cutting oil in the threads is just about impossible to get out.  bubbles and pin holes.  i f you cut the threads back to good pipe it is easy to weld.  good luck
Reply:Ideally you should use some weld on tank fittings:http://www.mcmaster.com/#weld-on-tank-fittings/=f28pi2 Attached Images
Reply:Unless you absolutely KNOW what was in the drum wasnt flammable or hazardous, fill the drum with water then weld it to make sure nothing can go boom.
Reply:Make sure the drum wasn't filled with a toxin that ISN'T flammable too. Don't want to inhale nasties...
Reply:as long as you have the bungs out of the top it won't go boom, as far as the fittings they dont make cast nipples, only the angled fittings (i.e. street ell), caps, plugs, would be cast.
Reply:Originally Posted by WelderDudeas long as you have the bungs out of the top it won't go boom, as far as the fittings they dont make cast nipples, only the angled fittings (i.e. street ell), caps, plugs, would be cast.
Reply:One way to do it cheap would be to cut out the sections of an old electric water heater where the elements screw in . Then just weld them onto your drum, they will already be curved to fit the drum nicely..Miller Challenger 172Miller Thunderbolt AC/DC 225/150Miller Maxstar 150 STLVictor 100CVictor JourneymanOxweld OAHarris O/ASmith O/A little torchNo, that's not my car.
Reply:A 55 gallon drum is NOT to be used as a PRESSURE VESSEL.  You're going to get yourself or someone else killed.  There's a reason why BOILERS are made to stringent ASME code requirments.  Even 15 PSI max pressure firetube heating boilers have shell thicknesses of 3/8" or better.   Do you plan on puitting a PRESSURE GAUGE on this hot water jacket?  Are you going to install a safety pressure release  valve to keep it from blowing up?  Most boilers have more than one safety valve.  What is the max pressure the 55 gallon drum can sustain before it becomes a bomb?  Do you know?  You're building a pressure vessel and you don't even know the difference between cast and black iron pipe fittings ?  I'm not trying to be a jerk but you should possibly consider a wood stove, pellet stove etc for your shop.  There are also ASME boiler/ building codes that may or may not apply to your area.  If you blow the place up, you may be held liable.   I've worked with boilers for 20 + years and these homemade boilers are death traps.  There are graveyards full of people killed by them. Here is a youtube video of a firetube boiler exploding.  They added cold feedwater to the boiler when it got low on water.  Instant steam bomb and this boiler was equiped with mutiple safety features and pressure release valves.  NOTE that the max working pressure of these boilers is only 15 PSI!  Even your little 55 gallon drum can become a bomb big enough to bring down your workshop and kill someone.  Just trying to help.  Good luck with your project.Last edited by pipenatgas; 11-23-2011 at 09:53 PM.
Reply:You ever deal with Sellers boilers? ASME stamp and Ive never seen such **** in my life!Go get a Cleaver! Haha just kidding, but in all seriousness, if you cant look at a Cast fitting vs Mallable you really dont have much business with a project like this....Thats not even that bad, a D series Cleaver went Chernobyl at St Marys Hospital, 100psi steam, went through concrete wall through maintenance shop, into parking lot where it stopped in a drainage ditch....Tisk tisk, false blow down log books...Last edited by MadMax31; 11-23-2011 at 10:22 PM.Lincoln Power MIG 210 MP ( boat anchor )Lincoln Weld-Pac 100 HDHobart IronMan 230Cutmaster 42Jackson NexGenSumner Ultra ClampsDWM120
Reply:Originally Posted by GumpThis is for an "open system" boiler, no pressure build up. Gump
Reply:Originally Posted by pipenatgasA 55 gallon drum is NOT to be used as a PRESSURE VESSEL.  You're going to get yourself or someone else killed.  There's a reason why BOILERS are made to stringent ASME code requirments.  Even 15 PSI max pressure firetube heating boilers have shell thicknesses of 3/8" or better.   Do you plan on puitting a PRESSURE GAUGE on this hot water jacket?  Are you going to install a safety pressure release  valve to keep it from blowing up?  Most boilers have more than one safety valve.  What is the max pressure the 55 gallon drum can sustain before it becomes a bomb?  Do you know?
Reply:Gump is building a  hydronic boiler, the water is circulated at a preset temperature below the boiling point. It is an open system. Steam boiler is a whole other animal. Not sure if hydronic systems fall under similar rules and regulations.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boiler#Hydronic_boilers
Reply:wow, uh just weld it with what you are comfortable with.Tim Beeker.
Reply:It's a new drum so no explosion hazard, I shoulda said that in the OP. I know this is not the best way to build, and I consider it a temporary OWB. I'm trying to spend as little money as possible on it because I'm not even sure if I want to fart around with burning wood. If it works well, and I can deal with the hassles of burning wood, I'll build or buy a bigger and better one and heat my house with it too. Thanks to all for the tips, links, and advice. Happy ThanksgivingGumpLast edited by Gump; 11-24-2011 at 10:42 AM.Safety 3rdGump
Reply:Originally Posted by CharleyhorseNope. The retail lumber stores and hardwares sell two kinds of steel pipe and fittings.  Galvanized for water, and black coated steel pipe for gas. Using cast iron for either purposewould be inviting disaster, cast is too brittle.Originally Posted by GumpIt's a new drum so no explosion hazard, I shoulda said that in the OP. I know this is not the best way to build, and I consider it a temporary OWB. I'm trying to spend as little money as possible on it because I'm not even sure if I want to fart around with burning wood. If it works well, and I can deal with the hassles of burning wood, I'll build or buy a bigger and better one and heat my house with it too. Thanks to all for the tips, links, and advice. Happy ThanksgivingGump
Reply:I'll take pictures as I proceed with this project and maybe I'll start a thread in the projects part of the forum.Safety 3rdGump
Reply:Originally Posted by AwelderiamWanna bet? Its called volume that exceeds the means of exit.....there have been more folks killed welding/cutting on barrels than about anything....look it up. a 2" bung aint going to help a barrel full of vapors....oh and those vapors can build after you first heat up the barrel then stop for a beer then Boom....but go ahead.....fire it up.
Reply:If nothing else find some stainless steel fittings they weld nice plus what ever you attach to them doest rust up quite as fastMillermatic 252millermatic 175miller 300 Thunderboltlincoln ranger 250smith torcheslots of bfh'sIf it dont fit get a bigger hammer
Reply:Originally Posted by AwelderiamWanna bet? Its called volume that exceeds the means of exit.....there have been more folks killed welding/cutting on barrels than about anything....look it up. a 2" bung aint going to help a barrel full of vapors....oh and those vapors can build after you first heat up the barrel then stop for a beer then Boom....but go ahead.....fire it up.
Reply:The only way to even think about that is to fill with water.....completly full no air space at all. I would really not even mess with those at all....not worth it.A young green pipe welder asked an old salt one day...How can I make the weld on the bottom of the pipe look like the top.......The old salt replied....Screw up the top......
Reply:One thing to note.....antifreeze has a flash point of 250-280 deg F.....thats antifreeze. Yes it will burn. The glycol will flash and burn.A young green pipe welder asked an old salt one day...How can I make the weld on the bottom of the pipe look like the top.......The old salt replied....Screw up the top......
Reply:I'm as much for Safety as anyone on this board, but you guys are kind of losing me here on this particular project...The OP has identified it as a NEW drum - to ME that means it has not been used so it should be as safe as anything out there.  The OP has identified that this will NOT be a pressurized system so no danger there either.  I agree that threaded fittings would be best, so as an idea why not just weld pipes in that are LONGER than the barrel and threaded on both ends.  No couplings to mess with, just thread on the fitting that you need and life goes on.New drum and new black malleable pipe - Mig it in and be done with it.  The OP could stick weld it in if he was comfortable, but the Mig is more forgiving for a beginner.Because the welds are only locating the pipe in relation to the drum, and NOT any sort of a critical weld, I don't really see an issue with this PARTICULAR Project.  I have known farmers in the past with home-made air to air heat exchangers fairly similiar in concept to this where they have welded 3" or 4" pipe lengthwise into a drum above the firebox and blew through the pipes and around the drum with a fan.  Worked fine.I may get flamed for it, but I just don't see the fuss over this one.Have a Good Night.Later,Jason
Reply:Originally Posted by AwelderiamThe only way to even think about that is to fill with water.....completly full no air space at all. I would really not even mess with those at all....not worth it.
Reply:People need to stop using oil barrels.  Instead look for 55 gal drums used to hold antifreeze.   Just wash out with water, and go to town.  As far as welding these,  Mig is best, but they do make 1/16 arc rod in 6013, and 7018.  Both will work.  I run em at like 45amps.  I made a wood stove out of a old oil barrel, but I used a jig saw to cut out the door, and then burned a ton of newspaper and paper towels to burn up the oil before welding.  Worked great.
Reply:Originally Posted by jfivePeople need to stop using oil barrels.  Instead look for 55 gal drums used to hold antifreeze.   Just wash out with water, and go to town.  As far as welding these,  Mig is best, but they do make 1/16 arc rod in 6013, and 7018.  Both will work.  I run em at like 45amps.  I made a wood stove out of a old oil barrel, but I used a jig saw to cut out the door, and then burned a ton of newspaper and paper towels to burn up the oil before welding.  Worked great.
Reply:If you have a farm or other situation with lots of room you can leave the unplugged drum on your burn pile, ignite pile so it lights off slowly, walk away, then return to a thoroughly cooked drum with no hassle. Worked for me. The solution to things which might go boom is to get away then give them the opportunity where they won't take you out.You can get away with doing some things MOST of the time, but one bad day and it rains teeth, hair, and eyeballs. Since junk isn't valuable, I take no risk to save junk.
Reply:Originally Posted by Black WolfUmmm....NO.  People have died doing it that way.   I do not intend this as disrespectful but that is the Fool's Way.  This particular topic has been covered numerous times on this site - A simple search will provide you with pages and pages of reasoning and logic.The old fellar using engine exhaust was trying to displace the Oxygen - Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't.  Without testing the LEL of the environment, you have no way to know.  Filling it with water MIGHT work, but I wouldn't be willing to bet MY life on it, and I sure wouldn't recommend it on the internet as "The ONLY" way to do it.  A proper, Safe and PROFESSIONAL approach to this is adequate steaming and a proper gas purge with an Inert Gas - It really is no different that doing hot work on any container that contained flammable hydrocarbons.There are countless sources for the correct procedures to do this sort of hot work SAFELY..Have a Good Night.