2 projects and some welds.

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First project is well not sure what its called but here it is.This my new welding cart, I got all the steel from some clothing rack thing at the dump. The vertical uprights have pieces that slide up and down in them. In the process I got my tool cart back. Sorry not many weld pictures.I didn't get pictures before I moved the welders.Last edited by BlindViper; 10-29-2009 at 04:59 PM.
Reply:Nice job on the fit up. thats the right way to do it.  Your starts and stops could use some work. You also should grind the rusty steel more where your welds are going to go. You may want to add some tie down points so you can strap things down easier.All in all not to bad as a beginner..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:looks pretty good , some decent looking welds but i noticed a little undercut, and on the 3rd picture it looks like you went a little too far, leaving a crater at the end of a weld like that is also a starting point for a crack, especially if thats where it mounts into the reciever, that will come in very handy, i made one myself a couple years ago but it went with the truck when i sold it. i made it big enough to hold a 120qt. cooler for salmon fishing trips up in the great lakes. its called a hitch haul by the way. again nice job and keep up the practice.millermatic 200 millermatic 150miller bluestar 2Epurox / oxweld O/A
Reply:I call them sumbitch, cause they hurt when you walk into them.Very handy though.Not sure why coping is better than mitering.Nice job.Tim Beeker.
Reply:Both will work. Coping gives you more weld area and reduces the stress on the weld. No big deal for this. It's the typical way most structural joints are done. It also tends to show a level of care in the work being done. It takes a bit more time to cope and requires a bit more skill in fitting then just angeling it and chopping the stuff. I've also found that it keeps the joint a bit more square as you weld it out. Any error in the angle on the saw will be multiplied by 2 usually in the joint. So if your saw is set at 43deg instead of 45 deg, your error is 4 deg out to get the joint tight. Most cuts for the cope can be laid out with a square and help keep the joint tighter, also it's a bit easier to fudge with a cope if you need to wrack your joint a bit to fit an existing issue.Last edited by DSW; 10-29-2009 at 07:06 PM..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Your welds themselves look pretty good to me, except the 4th picture from the top is one of those welds that looks good, but it appears to only be connecting the two pieces at the beginning and end of the weld, and the entire center is not really joining anything.  Maybe just my bad eyesight......Miller Syncrowave 350Millermatic 252/ 30A spoolgunMiller Bobcat 225g w/ 3545 spoolgunLincoln PowerArc4000Lincoln 175 Mig  Lincoln 135 Mig Everlast 250EX TigCentury ac/dc 230 amp stickVictor O/AHypertherm 1000 plasma
Reply:Yes, I agree to the more weld area with the coping. Just looks really time consuming.I guess my cold saw has me spoiled.Tim Beeker.
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWNice job on the fit up. thats the right way to do it.  Your starts and stops could use some work. You also should grind the rusty steel more where your welds are going to go. You may want to add some tie down points so you can strap things down easier.All in all not to bad as a beginner.
Reply:Being a trim carpenter really explains the coping. I've worked as a trim carpenter in the past. The welder I help out PT has me fit coped tube between supports. When I first met him, he asked if I thought I could do that sort of work. I told him it's not much different than coping  stain grade crown molding around funky angles.I wouldn't have guessed stick, I was thinking FC mig. 7014 is a great learning rod for beginers. Are you holding the stinger with both hands? Try that and get as much support as you can. Rest you elbows on something, sit, get as comfortable as posible..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWBeing a trim carpenter really explains the coping. I've worked as a trim carpenter in the past. The welder I help out PT has me fit coped tube between supports. When I first met him, he asked if I thought I could do that sort of work. I told him it's not much different than coping  stain grade crown molding around funky angles.I wouldn't have guessed stick, I was thinking FC mig. 7014 is a great learning rod for beginers. Are you holding the stinger with both hands? Try that and get as much support as you can. Rest you elbows on something, sit, get as comfortable as posible.
Reply:7014 does run very much like 6013, but 7014's give a stronger weld.I find 7014 a good general purpose rod7014 slag will peel itself if set up correctly.You will need to experiment on developing your own technique on your starts.Maybe start back a little and when arc strikes quickly move forward to where you want to start.I don't know what your exact limitations are, but you will get there in time.  A lot of us have something that makes welding hard sometimes.  My wrist locks if i i hold my arm in a certain way but have learned to avoid that positionGood luck
Reply:+1 on the tie down points.  A couple of D rings and maybe just someholes through which to hook bunjees and such.  I bought one of these, though not as stout, for $35 at a garage sale, and that's what I would have done different, though you can sometimes hook bunjees onto the expanded metal.Looks great!  If I didn't have one, that would be on my project list.Hobart 125Words mean things
Reply:Originally Posted by dapapa+1 on the tie down points.  A couple of D rings and maybe just someholes through which to hook bunjees and such.  I bought one of these, though not as stout, for $35 at a garage sale, and that's what I would have done different, though you can sometimes hook bunjees onto the expanded metal.Looks great!  If I didn't have one, that would be on my project list.