Suggestions (and questions) for a welding table

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Well, I am working on getting all my ducks in a row to set up for welding in my garage.   I have a Lincoln Square wave tig 175, a Victor oxy/acet rig with additional aircrafta and small torches,  and I just got a Lincoln Power Mig 180 Dual.Now I need to think about setting up a workstation in the garage and am open to any and all suggestions.  Portable or stationary?  The portable miller table looks interesting, but a stationary on wheels has a lot of advantages too.First projects: The welding table and a cart for the lincoln mig. Vehicle projects:  Fabbing parts for truck suspension,  a few brackets to hold things like compressors in the truck.Later projects aside from trailer and car work:  Some small height rabbit fencing for wifes garden to keep out rabbits,  gates for my deck, firewood stack holders, A decent stand for my lathe (hate the one it is on)  And god knows what else.Questions:I have seen some tables on the threads, and a lot of them describe table tops of 3/8 to 3/4 inches thick.   Why so thick?  What are neat and interesting things to add to make the table even more useful?I saw the Miller table project on their site.  It looks rather interesting.  I would limit it to a 36 inch width by 6 foot.  Do you think this would be a good design to start with?http://www.millerwelds.com/interests...welding-table/Could someone explain the usefulness of the plasma chute to me?Thank you!!Last edited by Housedad; 12-20-2011 at 11:31 AM.
Reply:I'll have a stab at this before the experts arrive Thick table tops are used in order to have a flat surface to work off - less likely to warp from heat/ tacking or welding parts (the stresses this imposes on table from clamped parts), hammering etc. or be warped from the beginning when you buy it. Having this in the back of your mind, consider what you will be putting on the table/welding(weight/material thickness/stresses).and you can define the thickness which will be suitable. Remember, you will design cross members to support the table top, so it does not need to be that thick if you're into light fabrication (and it will be easier to move around / but not so stable). I'm into light work and will be using 8mm and 10mm steel for the top (1/2" would be better but I have space constraints (need to move things arounda lot) and will opt for this solution). Table top is best screwed to the frame (orlightly tacked) to ensure it doesn't warp - consider this in your design.I'm also in the process of thinking/designing my table, so I've gone through a lot of thinking of what should be incorporated (still undecided ). Here's my list:(a)just like in the property market it's "position,position,position" that are important, to me it seems in the "welding table market" its "receivers,receivers,receivers" includingother means of clamping (holes/slots). Search for receivers on this forum and you'll see, but to start with incorporate square tube openings/receivers in the frame under thetop and I would add more of them at other levels so that you can attachwhatever "accessories" / what will help you to the table (extension, roller, grinder stand, welding positioner, extra hand etc. etc.) -  this is one of my favorites:http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...light=receiver(b)Casters - (use big ones) + good "feet" on the table for stability.Regarding the plasma chute, it is to direct/collect the "junk". I prefera steel grating and a water catch (eg wife's baking dish ) underneath -  thiswill reduce smoke etc. to a minimum but without exhaust fans etc., I wouldn'tcut inside anyway.
Reply:If you are a welder, build your own table, 1/4" would be minimum, but 3/8" better, remember 1/4" 4x8' plate is 320#.Lincoln Weld Pak100Lincoln Weld Pak 140 HDLincoln Weld Pak 175Lincoln Precision Tig 185Miller Millermatic 210 mig.
Reply:Ihave a 1/4" thick rolling table. Works great for small welding project but I wouldn't try straighting. Anything on it or getting carried away with a big hammer.Millermatic 252millermatic 175miller 300 Thunderboltlincoln ranger 250smith torcheslots of bfh'sIf it dont fit get a bigger hammer
Reply:Thanks for the replies!I've been reading as I get time for it, and am starting to determine what I need.   I noticed that there is the solid tabe top crowd and then there are others that prefer the 'skeleton' or U-channel type table.   What kinds do you folks prefer?
Reply:I guess it has to do with the size/type of things you will be weldingand how you will be working (sitting/standing) /what is mostpractical for you. As I'm a beginner and doing welding/metalworkfor a hobby (well, just beginning) and can only think of things I needa flat surface for , I've opted for a table. A friend of mine on the other handwelds for a living (spare time) and has a small table just for the vise/hand workbut does all welding on two sawhorses made of C channel - he's more intoconstruction/gates/trailers etc.
Reply:I saw this one for sale about a year ago...Lots of ideas here.I wish Santa had brought me this Attached ImagesLincoln Power MIG 215Lincoln WeldPak 3200HDLincon ProCut 25Lincoln WeldanPower 225 AC/DCIf all else fails... buy more tools
Reply:My table is 50x72 and 3/8 thick. I wish I would have gone thicker and maybe smaller with respect for lenght and width. It has a large floor space foot print.I work in a 2 car garage and generally remove 1/2 the crap in the garage to work.The 3/8 top is a little thin it will warp or bendDave ReberWadsworth Ohio
Reply:Originally Posted by PapaLionI saw this one for sale about a year ago...Lots of ideas here.I wish Santa had brought me this
Reply:here is one i picked up at an estate sale a couple of months ago for $350 for the table, vice and grinder. it's 65" in diameter 1.5 inches thick. 3 legged so it is self stabilizing. i still haven't found room in the shop for it so i haven't cleaned it up yet. i just use it where it sits for now. i plan on drilling holes in the top for hold downs and welding or bolting receiver mounts under it to attach the vise and other tools. as the others have said go with as heavy a top as you can. the one i have in the shop and used for years has a 3/8" top and will stay in the shop along with this one. Attached Images225NT bobcatAEAD200LEScott 125mm175, mm252 w 30A, PT225mm211, TA 181iHyper Therm 380, cut master 529100X & XX, Digital Elite6 Victor setssmith little torch, meco midget kalamazoo band sawsteel max saw evoulution circular saw
Reply:Possibly right tinbasher> I think the holes in the top at regular intervals are for  clamps which tie down the project piece... motorcycle frame builder use a similar set up.  I might be tempted to add a lip on two sides to afford clamping.  Otherwise a pretty keen bench IMHO.Last edited by PapaLion; 12-25-2011 at 04:10 PM.Lincoln Power MIG 215Lincoln WeldPak 3200HDLincon ProCut 25Lincoln WeldanPower 225 AC/DCIf all else fails... buy more tools