First TIG & Stick photos

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Here you go guys.  I was off today so I had to do something welding related .  I used my Miller Maxstar 150 STL   mild steel 1/16 tungsten and 1/16 rod.  ...on the stick side,  I used 6013 1/16" on those decent weld and the one blurry was 6011 3/32".  Please give me some tips on how to better these beads.Plate used was 1/8" angle.Here u go:  again  RED tungsten 1/16"  and 1/16" rod... amps range from  90(burned and caused a big dip and burnthrough) to around 50-55 amps.Stick attempts.  First was 6013 1/16" 45 amp on 1/8" angleThis second one was using 3/32" 6011 around 80 amps on 1/8" angleI'm all ready for you guys honest assessment.  I really want to be a better welder so I'm willing to try your suggestions._______Miller Maxstar 150 STLLincoln ProMig 140Hobart Handler 210
Reply:The tig welds on the left look a little cold, but you mostly got it.  Maybe use a little less filler.The 1/16" 6013 looks great.  Its the rod you don't have to weave, it just shakes in the holder. 6011 welds I can't see.Burn up more 6013 and tig wire.  Nice job cleaning up the plate for the tig welds.DavidLast edited by David R; 01-29-2008 at 08:24 PM.Real world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:---I don't have any foot controller at all.  I have to set amps and go by it.  Lift arc start only.Additional questions:1.  At one point,  the tungsten got stuck on the metal.  what caused this??  I pulled a little hard and the tungsten ended up detaching and flying.2.  What's the danger of accidentally touching the metal rod on the tungsten??  I was so freaking scared to get electrecuted by that mistake.  I think I read it somewhere.  Stick:1.  The 1/16 rod was awesome.  It laid really nice beads on the 1/8" angle at 45 amps.   I'm disappointed with the 3/32 6011 rods.  the bead looks burned on the side and there are no definitions of the scales.  I tried it at 90 amps and am wondering if it was too much or too less amps.  Thanks//Jo_______Miller Maxstar 150 STLLincoln ProMig 140Hobart Handler 210
Reply:with no foot pedal you may want to start colder,( move slower) as the metal will heat up(speed up)as for the tung to the filler.. it will give a shock but it won't kill ya or hasn't me yet. but does wake you up if you do that at 8 am first run
Reply:The tungsten sticking to the work was likely caused by dipping it into the puddle.   The TIG bead 3rd from the right looks about right on the heat.  The others to the left look too cold.  To the right, too hot.  Nice job on the 6013!  Can't see the 6011.MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:Thanks for the replies so far.  I'm soaking in all this information.  Additional question:1.  Is it possible to make the weld cold because I dipped too much rod in it?? should I slow down on dipping metal in the puddle??  I'm now feeling the importance of foot controller.   I had to lift the tungsten around 5 inches off the workpiece before the arc breaks.  By then,  the end of the bead would have already been contaminated...   I'm shopping around for a good deal on one.  If you guys have any source of a used one let me know.  I'll keep burning steel and keep you guys posted.  Clearer pic of 3/32 rod welds on the way.  I'd want to figure out why I can't burn a good bead using that rod.  It always looks like it's too hot.  too much black soot around the bead.  I'll weld beads and show u guys soon.  Thanks//Jo_______Miller Maxstar 150 STLLincoln ProMig 140Hobart Handler 210
Reply:The pic of the 6011 is too blurred to tell anything, but I can tell you that 80 amps is way too high. Try about 50 -60. It won't lay down, it won't be smooth, and it will seldom ever be nice looking. That's just the nature of the rod. If you are using DC make sure it is DCEP.The difference between art and craft is the quality of the workmanship. I am an artist.
Reply:Thanks jolly.  That makes a lot of sense!  I've been pushing up around 90 amps on 3/32 6011 and no matter how I change weave, speed the welds are just unsightly.  On the other hand,  the 6013 beads almost flawlessly.... for an untrained welder like me... in the aesthetic sense... I can't say about the penetration...    I'll give it a shot at lower amps and probly get some 6013 3/32" to practice on.  It's just hard to see if I'm doing okay analyzing the beads.  I'm still working on  maintaining consistent angle and speed.  I can probly move on to joining metal as soon as I hit the right amp on these rods.  I really appreciate the input.....   ....I'm off today so hopefully I can burn some rods and post some more pics.  safe welding to all!//Jo_______Miller Maxstar 150 STLLincoln ProMig 140Hobart Handler 210