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Newbie question. Just learned to weld, first project will be to make a table. My plan was to use square tubing and just angle the tube to 45 degrees at the ends, but I'm not exactly sure the best way to go about doing this. I currently have a reciprocating saw, O/A torch, or a grinder that can be used to cut to length. I also have a small 6" bench grinder, but it doesn't have a table/surface along the flat side of it to grind to a flat surface. I'm not opposed to buying another tool, say a metal chop saw or a better grinder, but I'm just looking for advice as to which of these (or other) methods is better (if there even is a difference).Alternatively, do I even need to angle the corners 45 degrees? Would there be any difference in weld strength or anything between having two angled piece meet vs having one open end butt up against the other's surface? If I chose the latter approach and used 2" ID tubing and just left the ends open I'm guessing I could use this as a receiver for a vise/grinder/etc?Thanks! - Ian
Reply:I used one of these for years, very handy tool to have. Attached ImagesDont pay any attention to meIm just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Generally speaking, you do not want to make miter cuts for corners. Just but one end to the side of the other piece.Standard 2" square tubing will give you problems for use as a hitch-receiver because of the weld line running along the inside of one of the four walls.Jack OlsenMy garage website
Reply:Originally Posted by Jack OlsenGenerally speaking, you do not want to make miter cuts for corners. Just but one end to the side of the other piece.Standard 2" square tubing will give you problems for use as a hitch-receiver because of the weld line running along the inside of one of the four walls.
Reply:Dry cut saw. Makes the cuts look like they were machined.Cut an MGB and widened 11" C4 Corvette suspension and LT1 Chevrolet power & 6 spd. Pictures here:Part 1http://forum.britishv8.org/read.php?13,7581Part 2http://forum.britishv8.org/read.php?13,22422
Reply:Originally Posted by ian1386is it possible to just grind down the inside weld line?
Reply:Coped is strongest, Just butting them is next and a miter is last in my book. What ever you have if you are good with it will do the job. I used a torch for years. I then bought a cheap band saw. Now I also have a sawzall and portaband. You could do it with a hacksaw and a good vice.DavidReal world weldin. When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Gord Lord it is just a welding table, mitre the corners if ya want tobut since it is just a welding table no need to make extra work for yerself- cut the tubing to length and weld 'er up."Best Way" is relative to your bank accountEd Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:[QUOTE=ian1386;627951]Is there a reason for not wanting miter cuts for the corners? Is it weaker, or just more work that you don't really need to do?As for the hitch receiver, is it possible to just grind down the inside weld line? Do they sell tubing that's "receiver ready", or would I have to go scrap a receiver from a trailer hitch?[/QUOTE\\hi,I bought 18" receiver tube ready made at harbor freight for around $ 10.00. This was a while ago. Make sure you use a 20% off coupon. Cheaper than Northern Tool. http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog...=receiver+tube
Reply:You can also get the cheap metal chop saw at "The Freight" to cut the angles. I have had one for 7 years, and although I can see that it wouldn't hold up to production work, it's worked out fine for my hobby level projects. I think the 45's would look nice, and seeing how this is just a table, not a trailer hitch, or another "life or death" project the strength shouldn't be a problem.
Reply:Personally, most of the time I miter my corners, because I don't like the way open tube looks, unless it serves a purpose, like for a receiver.I usually use my dry cut saw, but if I have to, I can get pretty good cuts with a rafting square and an angle grinder with a cut off wheel.
Reply:I use a chop saw and it works great! Now its not ready to be fitted on the space shuttle but works great for what i do. It fast easy and cheap.
Reply:This is my personal and "hobby" perspective answer:Receivers are a great idea - I'd always incorporate them. I checked out one bike repairstand that I bought several years ago and it uses 2mm wall tubing with inside tubeO.D. 1mm smaller than the outside I.D. + a couple of screws for tightening - so justworkout something close and you'll add the T-handled screws/nuts and it will work.If you get some tubes which are tight, you have the options described above or as I've seen on youtube in case the tube wall thickness allows, lightly bang the inner tube into the outer one just to get a transfer of location of weld line onto the innner tube , mark the weld line along lenght of inner tube and lightly grind along this line until weld linedoesn't create probs.As far as cutting is concerned, I splurged on a plasma which I use for shape cuttingbut for something three dimensional, if you want to be precise and fast,I would use something that cuts through the whole profile at once. What you should usedepends on how much space, money and need you have and what welding process youwill use- would be nice to have one of everything but I would opt for something like a cold saw or band saw something with a controlled/precise cutting as I hate the crud the grinder type machines make.
Reply:I would say chop saw. And for the corners miter cuts looks better and doesn't leave the open tube for the spiders to crawl in to.
Reply:If butting them is better except for aesthetics, then I'm just going to do that. It's just a work table, it doesn't need to look good. That being said, however, I do want it to not fall apart. So, I'm kinda turning this into a "critique my welds" post. I made a practice square out of some 1" tubing using butted joints the other day, which would be the exact same construction I'd be using for the table (except likely out of 2" tube instead of 1"). Does anybody see any glaring issues with these welds that would affect strength? Perhaps I need some more filler in that one corner that looks recessed? I also did some butt joints lengthwise in another 1" tube, as I'm actually going to be reusing part an existing table that I'll need to shorten by cutting out about a foot of 1" tube and welding it back together. Thanks! Attached Images
Reply:I'm not sure why people are hung up on having an open end. All you have to do is cap the tube. Do your measuring right and subtract the thickness of the caps from the length of the tube, and the caps won't be noticeable.If you cope instead, your caps will be already built in. Either way, there's no reason to have open-ended tubes that make the frame look like it was built by a hack.My $0.02! Last edited by tbone550; 01-05-2012 at 04:30 PM.Reason: correct a misspelling
Reply:Originally Posted by Broccoli1"Best Way" is relative to your bank account
Reply:I'd say just butt it. it's a welding table and, as you said yourself, it doesn't have to look good. just fuction. They make receiver stock. essentailly the same except the seam is in the corner instead of the middle of one side. you can buy it in many lenghts from your local metal supplier. having the receiver ends on the table is very fuctional allowing you to have stowable tool attachments. bench grinder, vice, chop saw, and the list goes on. it's very useful if you've got limited space or simply don't want 10 different stands holding up all your tools.the welds look fine for the purpose though it's good practice to not end your bead on a corner/edge. try wrapping your weld around the corner for 1/2"-3/4" or so.There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger
Reply:Originally Posted by Malave16I would say chop saw. And for the corners miter cuts looks better and doesn't leave the open tube for the spiders to crawl in to.
Reply:I have a Makita chop saw and as said already I use a speedy square to set 90* or 45*. Anything in between I use my sliding t- bevel. When cutting any angle besides 90* I clamp the tube or angle to the fixed fence w/ my visegrip c-clamp. It keeps the iron from moving sideways during the cut. MikeOl' Stonebreaker "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw |
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发表于 2021-9-1 00:02:10