Stick problem

admin

Hey guys, I have just been lurking and learning the past few months, but I need some input on a current project:1)First question involves what I call "voids" in my welds when using 5/32nd, 6013 rod.  Reference the first pic, I used AC, and varied amps from 120-180.The steel in the picture is 2"x2" 3/16th channel, and 3/8th plate. With flat welds I got good penetration and a decent looking weld (ref pics# 2,3).With the 90 deg weld I kept getting what I guess is the slag in the top of the weld.2) Second questions involves the same weld, is there a rule of thumb of the percent of joint needed to be welded.  I welded the entire top plate where I think the most stress will be w/ 1/8th 6011, 130 amps (ref pic#4).Do you guys think the one pass is ok, or do I need another.  The top of the plate will support the top of the forks (ref pics #5).Thanks George
Reply:The first one looks like it needs more heat and more attention to where you are welding. Make sure you tie your weld to both sides of the material. This can be a problem with 6013 as the flux is pretty heavy and tends to run back in your puddle if you don't have enough arc force to push it back and makes it hard to see what you are  doing. The others look pretty good but a little more heat will probably make them smoother. Don't forget that your arc is going out 60 times a second with AC  current. That is what causes that sputtering sound your arc makes and seems to make your amp setting more critical than with DC.
Reply:I would put two more passes across that top with either 7018 or 7024. That has to hold all of the load. The 6010 and 6011 electrodes don't work well under repetitive stresses like that will be getting. I work on broken forks fairly often and 7018 and 7024 are the only electrodes I use on them. So far none have come back and I warranty the welding. Try a few more amps with your 6013 and keep the arc right down in the puddle. I keep a pretty good forward tilt in a horizontal fillet and let the arc keep the flux blown back. If the flux gets ahead of you stop, clean things up and take off again.The difference between art and craft is the quality of the workmanship. I am an artist.
Reply:If all you have is  A  C current, i would put another pass across top top with 7014, good and hot . Make sure you have (the electrode) about a 45 degree angle to the top bar.Go slow and do NOT "whip" the rod. Just drag it .[SIZE="5"Yardbird"
Reply:Thanks for the feedback.  I understand, it is the slag that is pushing back into the puddle;  So Increase amps and maybe angle of rod?  This has only happened w/6013 5/32nd rod.  I will pickup some 70xx rod and run a couple of stringers across the top.About the % of joint welded:  In a frame like this, I of course will weld the entire top, but what about the other joints?  Would 50% of joint welded be sufficient?
Reply:I don't know what that is going on, but the frame looks a little weak for those 4,000 lb forks.  I am not an engineer, but have worked on a lot of forklifts and the fork bar is much heavier than that.I would weld the heck out of everything and add more braces and supports.DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Originally Posted by David RI don't know what that is going on, but the frame looks a little weak for those 4,000 lb forks.  I am not an engineer, but have worked on a lot of forklifts and the fork bar is much heavier than that.I would weld the heck out of everything and add more braces and supports.David
Reply:Its looking good.  When you mount it, I would make sure its connected directly to the top bar because that is where all the weight is.  How are you going to angle the forks?Good project.DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:as a rule of thumb the throat of a fillet should be equal to to the thickness of the base metal.
Reply:Originally Posted by David RIts looking good.  When you mount it, I would make sure its connected directly to the top bar because that is where all the weight is.  How are you going to angle the forks?Good project.David
Reply:A lot of people don't realize that there is rod that is made for running on AC machine you can go to your local welding store and ask for some 7018 AC welding rod this will help with flow and penetration.Camonut
Reply:I might have chosen 1/8" rods. They'll run fine at a bit less current.The 7018AC rods I have tried don't impress me much. I called for a price check and availability on some Excalibur today. I may need a rod oven though!  But the difference in the quality of rods is incredible!City of L.A. Structural; Manual & Semi-Automatic;"Surely there is a mine for silver, and a place where gold is refined. Iron is taken from the earth, and copper is smelted from ore."Job 28:1,2Lincoln, Miller, Victor & ISV BibleDanny
Reply:I agree that the AC rod is not that great but when using a AC welding unit set up properly it will do a good job. Typical 7018 ran on a AC machine sticks has irratic arc and does not flow that well.Camonut
Reply:Originally Posted by tanglediverI might have chosen 1/8" rods. They'll run fine at a bit less current.The 7018AC rods I have tried don't impress me much. I called for a price check and availability on some Excalibur today. I may need a rod oven though!  But the difference in the quality of rods is incredible!
Reply:a 6011 is a deep penetrating rod, a 6013 isn't, but a 5/32" 6013 run at say 160amps should weld that fine considering you are only using mild steel.  With 6013 it can be hard to distinguish the slag from the puddle.  Always keep the rod angle slight back so that the arc force keeps the slag pushed back rather than it getting in front of the puddle.  Keep practicing and you will get it.  Mainly you will need to learn to differentiate between what art of the weld is the puddle, and what is the slag.  When you can do that you will know what to look for.I'm a Lover, Fighter, Wild horse Rider, and a pretty good welding man......