self darkening helmet question

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I am welding 20 GA sheetmetal. I can weld it fine, just can't see the seems because of the size. I use a hallogen light, but it sometimes activates the helmet and turns dark before I am ready. The light does help some to see the seems but it is still hard. I have a cheap harbor freight type helmet. Would a better helmet work better or is this just a problem you have to live with? TIA, WB
Reply:I have a good auto darkening helmet. It can still happen. Here's a tip- cover the shield top for a second and the lens will be off as you set up. Pull your hand away, and it will go dark, but you'll be set up and ready to hit the trigger.And then, after so much work...... you have it in your hand, and you look over to your side...... and the runner has run off. Leaving you holding the prize, wondering when the runner will return.
Reply:Is your helmet variable shade? if it isnt you may wanna just switch and use a non auto darkening helmet with a lighter shade lens in itI like to party!
Reply:try turning the sensitivity down
Reply:Now some of you might not like my answer but here goes. Get you a good old fahion helmet and a 10 or 11 gold lense (with clear lense over it). Get it set where all it takes is a slight nod to drop it. Get set up for your weld and nod you head so your hood drops in place. The gold lense gives you a lot better view. Use a shade lighter in the gold than you would use in the green lense.
Reply:I just bought one of those fancy Digitel auto dark...and I'm pretty sure you can fine tune It for that.I have used auto darks since they were first invented  This Is what I use now...much nicer than the old helmets.http://www.millerwelds.com/products/...mets/elite.php
Reply:Throw the HF away and get a good one. You will thank yourself. The lense on the HF hood darkens over time to the point that shade 9 is actually about a 12. I have a Jackson Boss EQC in a Shadow hood and like it. My business partner uses a Miller Pro Hobby and loves it. I got it for him for xmas and think I gave about 125 for it. I have tried it and think I like it. It has his cheater in it so I can't really see what I am doing all that well. Makes the arc look fuzzy, lol.The difference between art and craft is the quality of the workmanship. I am an artist.
Reply:Ha!  I tried one of those 'cheater' lenses.  I had to hold the helmet about a foot in front of my face before I could see anything with it.  That was a 1.5x magnification.  Guess my eyes aren't that bad yet.  I was really looking for a 1.25x lens but all they had was 1.5.MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:Wait till you have to have a 2.5. Progressive bifocals solved all that "cheater" crap. I can even see the sights on my handguns now.
Reply:Forget the cheater lenses...I just ware 150 safety's...then your good for fitting as well.I have to agree buy a good helmet , check out the digtal's you can tune them for grinding, welding and cutting (Plasma)Getting back to your question...you may be able to make a light sheild for your light...ie...ducktape and a pc of light tin...then the light wont be glaring into the photocell.CheersGearsLast edited by Gearjam; 03-21-2008 at 08:18 AM.
Reply:Originally Posted by OldtimerWait till you have to have a 2.5. Progressive bifocals solved all that "cheater" crap. I can even see the sights on my handguns now.
Reply:You will love that Digital Elite...Like you said the ratchet system Is #1...Its very lite...and the tint Is nice too...IMO It's worth the extra cash...and also If you work on alot of small stuff like a broken carburetor etc...the Auto dark Is the way to go
Reply:Digital Elite is cool ... on my next month list to buy... or chirstmas... which ever come firstUnit in my fab shop dept:my good hand and team that trust me...A lone welder make art... a village full of welder make Miracles...
Reply:Bhardy said it best for me."Now some of you might not like my answer but here goes. Get you a good old fahion helmet and a 10 or 11 gold lense (with clear lense over it). Get it set where all it takes is a slight nod to drop it. Get set up for your weld and nod you head so your hood drops in place. The gold lense gives you a lot better view. Use a shade lighter in the gold than you would use in the green lense."I've had Harbor Freight ones.  I tried about five before I finally gave up and got my money back.  I tried a Hobart Hood.  Worked great, for a while.   I went back to a very nice Jackson big filter (non auto) hood.   It works perfectly.  It'll be working perfectly ten years from now.  It cost me one tenth the price of a truly professional auto hood.   Set, nod,weld.   Been doing it this way thirty years...
Reply:I had tried to use a halogen flood light to help see the seams when welding with auto dark helmet, with the same problem you are having.So I got mad grabbed an old clamp light with the aluminum round shield, it had a 75 watt bulb and guess what.... I now have a halogen flood light on a stand for.... who knows what use it may come in handy for. Oh and both the helmet and the halogen are HF brand.Miller Thunderbolt 225Millermatic 130 XPLincoln HD 100 Forney C-5bt Arc welderPlasma Cutter Gianteach Cut40ACent Machinery Bandsaw Cent Machinery 16Speed Drill PressChicago Electric 130amp tig/90 ArcHobart 190 Mig spoolgun ready