7018/6010

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am learning to stick weld.i  can sit and practice and make beautiful bead after beautfful bead with slag that falls off by itself in one piece  with 7018..the distance between freeze lines (stacked dimes) is tiny ..smooth...when i practice with 6010 i get ugly  lumpy beads with slag that doesnt want to comeoff . is there a different technique to use from what im doing with 7018?  before getting my ta 185 i had heard that some cheaper inverters cant burn 6010 because of "coming in and out of the puddle.."??what is meant by coming in and out f the puddle?it seems with the 6010, i can see the puddle sometimes lagging behind the arc, then getting closer--seems these  become cold spots that are the lumps  in the bead..doesnt seem  the same with 7018.
Reply:Never heard of "coming in and out of the puddle". Must be a regional expression or something new. It takes more heat to run 7018 than the same size 6010 rod so if your machine burns 7018 it should handle 6010. They are both DC Reverse rods.
Reply:so basically the same technique? does 6010 just look "worse" than 7018?
Reply:6010's do look worse and have a harder slag. nothing you can do about that. 6010's are a fast freeze rod, so you generally whip them instead of drag like you would with the 7018.I like to party!
Reply:Like Capt Willy said, you need to actively manipulate 6010 forward and back as you move the puddle along the joint, unlike 7018, 7014 and 7024 where you can just drag it along.   With 6010, whip it forward just ahead of the puddle to dig/preheat, then whip it back into the puddle and hold momentarily till it fills, then whip forward again and repeat.  Try that and pay close attention to the puddle and how it's filling as you go.  Practice alot in the flat before trying it in other positions.MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:6010 flat or uphill makes a pretty rough weld. If you can run it downhill it makes a much smoother weld. Cram your stringer in downhill, grind it smooth with a 1/8" grinding wheel. Turn up your amps a little, hold a little longer arc making sure it ties on the sides and your weld will be pretty smooth. Don't flip it in and out of your puddle downhill, just hold a steady arc and weave it enough to catch the sides.
Reply:DesertRider33 and Captain Willy, i think the whip action is the " in and outof the puddle" i had heard of earlier..after burning some 6010  tonite,im guessing the movement from front (ahead) to back (into the puddle) is maybe 3/8" to 1/2" , and cycles  2 to 3 seconds?Oldtimer, the  longer arc on the hotpass--what does that do for you?thanks to all.
Reply:Hey Oldtimer not trying to argue but 6010 vert. up can and should be smooth. I usually adjust the welder to run the 6010 almost out of control going up and then put 7018 cap without readjusting the welder.
Reply:Basic 6010 whip action:  Using drag technique and 15 to 30 degrees electrode inclination.Establish arc & move electrode forward in the direction of travel w/ short arc to dig.Backstep slightly (no more that 1 electrode diameter) and long arc slightly to deposit metal.Move electrode forward in the direction of travel w/ short arc to dig .....Repeat.Depending on your technique (straight whip, side to side weave etc) and the amount of digging and depositing that you want - the electrode movements can be quite quick.Find a way to develop a rhythm.  Count.  Repeat a phrase.  Sing.  Whatever works for you to maintain your timing.Keep practicing, and it'll come to you.As discussed, 6010 is a fast freeze electrode, but it is NOT limited to a whip technique.  Once you get the hang of it, you'll see.Later,Jason
Reply:Weldbead: it increases the arc force and keeps the flux slightly behind your puddle. You can see what you are doing and it just makes it easier to get a good weld, Not a very good way to explain it I know but play with it and you will see what I mean.Big worm: not being smart a$$ but maybe we have a different definition of smooth. I gurantee a weld with 6010 can be made smoother downhill than uphill and it won't have any slag inclusions if done right.
Reply:also you have to keep a longer arc length then 7018.  fo up hill 6010 instead of whiping up and down ill do a fast whip side to side and slower travel speed.
Reply:Hey guys,Five of my friends and I (we're all engineers & hot rod enthusiasts) are all taking a welding class & "lab" together, and this whipping technique was just mentioned to us this week.  Thanks a ton for the info here- very timely, and we really appreciate the detailed descriptions & variations!Would it be possible to post pictures (and videos if possible!!!) of how this is done and what the beads look like afterwords?  Mastering stick welding is a difficult, steep learning curve process, and knowing what they should look like for 6010 from someone that knows what they're doing would be incredibly helpful!So, to drive the point home, although this thread is actually very helpful tomorrow anyway:Hobart Stickmate LX AC/DC, Millermatic 252 & 30A spoolgun, Thermal Arc 185 TIG, Miller BWESmith Oxy-AcBridgeport 2J , South Bend 42" 9AHusky 7.5 HP 22.3 CFM 80 gal compressor
Reply:We call It the cut and butter technique...cut ahead and whip back and butter...I always run the 6010 down hand...even when welding fittings on the roller stands...I hold the rod at 1-2 o'clock (on pipe) and roll the pipe. 6010...7010...and 8010 and 9010...they all burn about the same...lotsa penetration from these rods...thats what there made for...and you run them hot. It can be used on other things but Its really a pipe rod.as for general fab and repairs I would use something else...the 6010 will not look good just draging It flat.Gears
Reply:not so much 6010 but when I worked in a rock pit we used a lot of 6011 because of its high penetration through grease rust paint dirt but it wasnt as pretty as the 7018
Reply:i spent the weekend tigging  ms for the first time. i got Real tired of changing tungstens, so i changed  the torch for a stinger and burned a bit of 6010 , felt like i was a kid  let out of school...fotos attached, trying different heats (80a, 90a, 100 a) on 1/4" ms. believe me , these are a lot better than what i turned out before you gentlemen described whipping to me. criticism is what i need...please.. Attached Images