welding pickets

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I'm in the beginning stages of building my first fence. The fence has sq tube top and bottom rails with picket between them. There is a lot of fence, around 300'. My question is there any options on not welding the pickets all the way around? Two reasons, one that's a lot of extra welding. Two it would cut down on distortion from heat. What do you guys do? Thanks
Reply:btw, keeping from getting rust lines is what I am after. The panels will be painted. Could I use some type of caulking on the un-welded sides?
Reply:PFD I build a fair amount of rod iron fencing and usually weld all the way around the picket. You are correct that if you leave a piece unwelded you will have problems with rust spots very quickly. I have never used caulk in place of a weld but that could be an option. As far as distortion goes, you do not want to weld all around one picket at the same time. What i ussually do is weld one weld on one side of the picket and the do the exact same on the other end of the picket giving the metal plenty of time to cool down. 300 feet of rod-iron can definately be overwelming for a first rod-iron project but let me know if you have any questions i can help you with. Good LuckNick
Reply:caulking would take as much time as welding.  Also, causes you to have to revisit panels after welding and before cleaning/painting.  A good jig, an autodarkening helmet(so you can keep it down) and three days of welding will get it done.  After the first few panels you can figure how to compensate for warpage, somehow.  Hopefully you will figure it out before the 40th panel.
Reply:Agreed with trailgoose and tapwelder...In addition, unless your railings are arcing over a small brook you will want to minimize heat distortion by doing welds top rail, bottom rail, top rail, bottom rail, etc. I also have welded the vertical downhands (if the railing is on a table or horses) following the same pattern.Sorry, BEER welder here...[B]Forever learning[B].