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welding cast spears and collars to steelwhats the best way Attached Images
Reply:If you are going weld top and bottom, then no special filler required since it will be wedge by the weld.  I never use special filler for those casting.  At least put a good size weld burr underneath and it will hold fine.Additional tip--I usually dip the in thinned primer or paint prior to welding, really assures that they are not going to rust if you miss a spot.  The paint does not burn off completely when weld. The texture hold the paint very well.  Don't do it if you are going to have them powder coated, though you definately should weld top and bottom.
Reply:Seems like Jolly Roger mentioned a local specialty electrode for this.He's from New Orleans, where there's a lot of ornamental work.Come in Jolly Roger, we need you!
Reply:Good question.  No special filler required.  You don't need the "best" way because all they do is sit there and look pretty.  Use the same filler you weld up the rest of the project with.  Sometimes because of the sloppy fit you just get creative with how much filler.  I usually hit one side and then one of the touching sides just so it can't bend over and snap in the HAZ on the cast part if some kid starts hanging on it.
Reply:I weld a lot of those done your way back on. I use Allstate Corecast 180, but unless you need the stuff for other things it is cost prohibitive (was over 40 bucks a pound six months ago and requires 98%Ar/2%O2 and a lot of power). You can stick them together using small tacks with gmaw. I have tried welding across two sides but had a lot of trouble with them cracking out when they cooled. It works better on solid square than on tube. Try tacking on each corner, just a good healthy tack and see how that works. Most of those pieces are available in cast steel and if you can get them you are much better off (try King Architectural Metals). They also sell the pickets with the finials already welded and in bulk they cost less than I can get the cast iron finials for, much less the tube and consumables. Faster and fewer headaches. Those you can weld with gmaw with no problem at all. I've had better luck sticking the cast spears on with FCAW than GMAW.The difference between art and craft is the quality of the workmanship. I am an artist.
Reply:Ed MacIf you use regular filler, then you must  think of it as making a mechanical connection.  Thus, if it fall down you don't have enough of a burr or weld underneath.  The weld will not break off the steel picket.I used to have a jig for welding these onto tubular pickets.  The jig allowed positioning of the casting, then tacking once at the bottom the welding continuously about the top while rotating in the jig.  Now, if I was unsuccessful at swaying the client in another direction, I just build one, and use it as a measuring stick.  Then I lay out as many as possible on a table, tack, flip and weld around the top nonstop.I have done  many rails where I spent a day just welding those castings on tubular pickets.  I have welded thousands of those things on and always hated it.For finials or cap I would suggest using a cast filler or adhesive.  I prefer epoxy ,though the urathanes work.  I have also used screws.  Though with screw I recently found the hardness of the finials varies greatly and sometimes the material cannot be drilled.   Brazing is a not practical, tried it before.  King Metals used to sell an item that spread tubular picket and allowed the finial to be hammered on to the picket.  It might be around still.If you are wet painting, then adhesive allow for better rust management.  You can dip your finials and seal the joint so rust cannot drip.  It looks better than welding to. As stated, they are time consuming and might be advantageous to purchase ready made stuff.Last edited by tapwelder; 05-23-2008 at 05:03 AM.
Reply:Another tactic you might try is to tack weld them in place then preheat the casting with a torch before welding with your MIG.  The cooling rate will be much slower and the welds should not crack.  I would preheat to at least 400 F... spit dances on the surface.   It is a lot of extra work but good insurance.
Reply:Jolly,I can't remember the last time I had a weld crack on one of those casting.  I think using thin walled tubing allows for more expansion during the cooling period. Thus, the weld does not pull away from the casting.  When I started, I used to build all rails out of solid stock that was 8yrs ago.  At the time 1/2" sq solid was cheaper than 1/2" sq. tubing.  Anyway, I think I may of had some cracking issues then.Just a thought.Lotech, good to hear from you, I always like to hear you input.  You're the man responsible for me turning my bandsaw station around.  Things flow so much better, now--off the truck and onto the rollers.
Reply:Originally Posted by tapwelderJolly,Lotech, good to hear from you, I always like to hear you input.  You're the man responsible for me turning my bandsaw station around.  Things flow so much better, now--off the truck and onto the rollers.