welding leads

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New to this forum, and new to welding, so I don't know if this is a good place to ask this question. I have inheirited a very old welder from my father in law with about 100' of  very heavy leads but the insulation on the leads is not in very good shape.   Is their any way to reinsulate welding leads or should I just replace them.  I don't see any this heavy in the box stores, so if I replace the leads what size wire is recomended? The welder is a old Hollup 285 amp ac. mike
Reply:A while back I bought a scrap welder with 100+ feet of 1/0 lead. The lead insulation was cracked throughout. I got bout $100.00 from the scrap yard.If it is cracked, dry rotted or copper is exposed, it's junk. If it's just the ends that are bad, cut them off.The size of new leads depends on how much amperage you want to put thru them and the length you want. I buy lead in 50' sections with quick connectors. If you just want to learn and are a beginner, you could get away with 50' total, 20' for your work (ground) and 30' for your stinger (electrode holder). As far as size, with 50' total, I will guess you can get #2."Where's Stick man????????" - 7A749"SHHHHHH!! I sent him over to snag that MIC-4 while tbone wasn't looking!" - duaneb55"I have bought a few of Tbone's things unlike Stick-Man who helps himself" - TozziWelding"Stick-man"
Reply:I saw at Walmart 2 days ago some 20' 4 gauge jumper cables for under $40 (I think 4 gauge is ok for this length, well not sure about the full blown 285 amps you have). I would imagine they'd make for some decent leads for most things. Thinking about getting some myself to keep handy, ultimately I'd like 50' leads. 100' gotta be too much for normal use, but I can certainly see where they'd be nice to have on hand.Last edited by tiny; 02-17-2012 at 10:16 AM.Montgomery Ward Powr Kraft AC-DC 230/140
Reply:You would be way ahead to get real welding leads worth lugs on them. Several online suppliers have pre made cable with ends that a reasonable priced. Here is a chart with amperage ratings:http://www.pacificcabling.com/Specia...rage_chart.htmCheck out ram welding supply (online) or your local welding supply house. Just ask for a premade kit for however many feet you want. #2 cable would probably work for you starting out unless you need a long distance to reach what you are working on. Btw, all my stuff is #1 and 1/0 in 100 and 150 lengths.Miller Pro 30068 SA 20064 SAF 300305 G Lincoln gasserMiller 210
Reply:Originally Posted by robphillips00You would be way ahead to get real welding leads worth lugs on them. Several online suppliers have pre made cable with ends that a reasonable priced. Here is a chart with amperage ratings:http://www.pacificcabling.com/Specia...rage_chart.htmCheck out ram welding supply (online) or your local welding supply house. Just ask for a premade kit for however many feet you want. #2 cable would probably work for you starting out unless you need a long distance to reach what you are working on. Btw, all my stuff is #1 and 1/0 in 100 and 150 lengths.
Reply:For just learning you might be able to cut down your existing leads and save the best parts. Hopefully you will get some leads that are still long enough to use. For any severe scuffs or small cracks you could even heavily tape over them with plastic electrical tape but only do this for practice leads. If you need more than one roll of tape you had better buy new leads. Don't forget to save the scrap parts of the leads. If you can remove the insulation from them you will get the highest scrap value for the copper, but even with the insulation they will likely give you enough to help pay for a significant portion of your new leads.Northern, Tractor Supply, and your local welding shop can all sell you the new lead wire and terminations.When you get it working, come back with some photos.CharleyMiller MM252Miller Bobcat 225NTMiller DialArc HF / DIY Cooler2 Victor O/A TorchsetsMilwaukee 8" Metal SawMilwaukee Dry Cut "Chop" Saw 5 Ton Wallace Gantry Various Grinders, Benders, etc.
Reply:I would not even think about 4 gauge wire on that machine.  #1 gets warm running 1/8" 7018.  DavifReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Originally Posted by David RI would not even think about 4 gauge wire on that machine.  #1 gets warm running 1/8" 7018.  Davif
Reply:Thanks for the Information Guys.  I guess I will be replacing them with 50'  #2 leads,  I have already taped them twice and they are now where I am not confortable welding with them anymore.  Good Idea about stripping the insulation off and selling the old #1 leads for scrap.  The old Hollup welds really good , it's a lot better than I am .  I think 50' will work just fine for me.My Father in law had it set up with (2) 40' sections of # 1 that plug together and then a 20' section of I think it # 2 ( it's a lot more flexable) for the  stinger.  But for just 50' I think I can use # 2 and it won't heat up too much.  The thickest stuff I will be welding will be 1/2 to 3/4" and not much that thick.Thanks again,mike
Reply:I just looked at the chart that Robphillips00 posted, and I did not know that the leads come in that many sizes.  What is the diameter of 1/0 , I am wondering if that is what I have for the first 80' because it is alot bigger than the stinger 20' section of what I thnk is # 2.  My Father in law was a professional welder 25 years ago. mike
Reply:I would get a new set of 1/0 if it was me. This is the size recommended by Miller for the Synchrowave 250 to have full output for SMAW. I like long leads on a stick welder so I can reach around the shop without having to move a big welding machine. And outside if needed.Consider it like investing in Gold, it's expensive, but in the long run copper is probably not going to get cheaper. And you can always use the leads on another welder if your present rig gives up.