TIG weld critique please

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105 amps, 18psi argon, 3/32 gold tungsten (1.5% lanthanated), 3/32 ER70s fillerI just got my packet of lanthanated tungsten in and wanted to give it a shot. I read they have less arc wandering than 2% thoriated (red). I may not have the prettiest welds in the world but I did notice under the heat that the arc was VERY stable any wandering you see in the pics is strictly from my lack of a steady hand.  Overall I wouldn't say it turned out terrible.I have not tried it on aluminum yet but they also say you can weld aluminum at a point.Miller Syncrowave 180SDMillermatic 175
Reply:That isn't bad at all.  I noticed a little undercut which may be from a combination of torch angle and too much heat, but other than that, looks ok
Reply:Start / stops look like they could be better, kind of hard to tell from the picts. Did you dip the tungsten on the last stop? I'm looking at that odd colored haze I see. In pict #2 on the left the bead looks like it might be just a bit cold, again hard to tell from the pict. There looks to be some undercutting on the joint in some places.All in all they don't look all that terrible to me, but what do I know. Certainly better than I could do most likely.
Reply:There is a touch of undercut, prolly just a tad too much heat either that or slow it down and use a bit more filler.The haze, I dunno what to say there. Never dipped the tip. Theres a few dark or black spots that may look like it, but I think that was the point I let off the pedal abruptly. I just did a T-join and got the same thing with a black spot on the end of one:Left to right: 1st bead I didn't use enough filler and was a hair cold. 2nd looked ok but the start had an undercut. 3rd was about the same minus the undercut but I stopped abruptly, hence prolly the black mark. 4th... well the 4th one I just cranked it up and wanted to do an absolutely unnecessary hot bead.Miller Syncrowave 180SDMillermatic 175
Reply:I think all the welds look good, especially since you know where you troubles lye.Just hope my Tig welds look that good!Miller Thunderbolt 225Millermatic 130 XPLincoln HD 100 Forney C-5bt Arc welderPlasma Cutter Gianteach Cut40ACent Machinery Bandsaw Cent Machinery 16Speed Drill PressChicago Electric 130amp tig/90 ArcHobart 190 Mig spoolgun ready
Reply:Originally Posted by KubsLeft to right: 1st bead I didn't use enough filler and was a hair cold.
Reply:are you left handed and are you using a inverter welderjust curious about being left handed from the pics.i allways used 2% thoriated even on aluminum untilli got my dynasty 200 dx a inverter now i use 2% ceriatedon the 200
Reply:Yes, I am left handed and no I'm not using an inverter welder.Miller Syncrowave 180SDMillermatic 175
Reply:on Post # 4 with the pic. See the silicone dot where he stopped the amps. There will be a pinhole there (maybe hard to see but will leak if pressurized). My welds have them too. My question is how to stop from getting that small pinhole at the end of the weld. I tried to slowly lower the amps and just cut them off all at once , but neither helped. So whats the fix. My welding teacher (2 years ago) said the only way to get rig of it is to keep on welding off the plate on to the table, and not stop on the plate.-Ryan
Reply:Originally Posted by ace4059on Post # 4 with the pic. See the silicone dot where he stopped the amps. There will be a pinhole there (maybe hard to see but will leak if pressurized). My welds have them too. My question is how to stop from getting that small pinhole at the end of the weld. I tried to slowly lower the amps and just cut them off all at once , but neither helped. So whats the fix. My welding teacher (2 years ago) said the only way to get rig of it is to keep on welding off the plate on to the table, and not stop on the plate.-Ryan
Reply:The little spot is formed from where the tramp elements in the metal float to the surface and ride along on the puddle, then solidify in place when you terminate the weld.  We get alot of them when we're welding stainless TIG with fusion only (no filler)  And we have seen leaks from holes hidden under these tramps.  Don't know how well it would work on steel like you have, but on stainless, we roll the weld, that is to say, once we reach the end of the weld, we start to roll off the foot pedal and backtrack over the weld in the opposite direction, then, as we reduce power and make the puddle smaller, we roll the puddle to the edge of the weld, and deposit those tramps at the edge of the weld, where they don't leave a discontinuity or a stress riser that could fail later.I r 2 a perfessional