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I am having a hard time using my torch, when i go to cut I can start good, but then I start to get the metal flowing back into my cut, how can i fix this? I have angled the torch, but same thing.It is 1/8 in. steel, I am using a 6/1 tip oxy/acet. at 5 acet, 20 o2. Thanks for any help.
Reply:cutting 1/8" with a torch isnt really easy.When the metal is flowing back into where you have already cut our moving too slow.  You have to move really quick, watch your kerf and the flow of metal, if the slag starts bridging across the kerf speed up.Im not sure what brand of torch you have, but if your cutting 1/8" you should be using a 0-1-101 (victor #) sized tip.
Reply:that is the size i am using and i am usiong a firepower torch or its something close to that i will need to check.
Reply:what does it mean if your metal turns a pinkis/ purpleish color while you are cutting? Thanks
Reply:try turning your heat down a little. I always try to move real fast as Drivethruboy suggested, and use more torch angle.
Reply:I didn't see anyone mention this. Make sure your tip is clean. Run the appropriate size tip cleaner thru each little hole. Don't scrub it back and forth, just a time or two. Drivethruboy recommends an 0 tip but I prefer a 00. That's personal preference and either will do the job. I like a little more pressure than you were running, about 30# on the oxygen. I start my cut straight down and roll the torch over to a 40-45 degree angle and get the cut out in front of the tip a little bit. This keeps from overheating the metal and having it run together. Cutting speed plays a big part in a smooth, clean cut. After you figure it out you can cut it with almost no slag left on the bottom of the cut.
Reply:That is molton steel and will only go away if you cool the temperature off.  LessOxygen/Acetylene pessure and faster travel.  You should not have to use the torch at an angle, just cool the temperature off.  JohnSMAW,GMAW,FCAW,GTAW,SAW,PAC/PAW/OFCand Shielding Gases.  There all here. :
Reply:Originally Posted by weldgaultYou should not have to use the torch at an angle
Reply:every book i have read about oxy fuel cutting recommends cutting at an angle for thinner stuff.  Simply lowering the temperature often causes starvation of the tip and flashbacks
Reply:Angling the torch one way or the other is a good method of compensating for not having the ideal tip size on and/or constantly tweaking the pressures. Many folks don't even have the full range of recommended tips let alone take the time to swap six times in an afternoon of play or work. Angling the tip into the cut on thin materials presents a larger crosss sectional face, in short makes it look thicker to the torch. Most folks I know run a tip suited for the middle of the range they normally deal with then use various tips and tricks to deal with thicker or thinner than the tip was designed for.
Reply:It's all about torch adjustment, height and line control.I was just going to cut the 1/8 for Mark123, but I like the thick stuff too.Same old hand torch, same tip; free hand and with plate for line guide, then with clamped angle to guide height and line. Attachment 20618Attachment 20619Attachment 20620Attachment 20621Attachment 20622Plate was 1/8, bar was 1.5 x 3 (I think).Gotta keep it short right now, more later.Last edited by denrep; 10-19-2010 at 11:33 PM.
Reply:I use a 00-1-101 Victor for everything from 1/2" down to 20ga. I run 40psi Oxygen and 10psi Acetylene for everything. Angling the torch on the thin stuff helps control melt back, helps control distortion, and once you have it right you won't have any more cleanup than a plasma. Once you get it down you can flat rip thru the thin stuff, and do it a lot faster than you can with the tip perpendicular to the sheet. The only thing I use a guide with is my plasma (not too often) or a circular saw (real often).The difference between art and craft is the quality of the workmanship. I am an artist.
Reply:Originally Posted by Mark...whatever. you must not cut very much.
Reply:Mark123 - The trouble sounds like too much pre-heat, due to slow torch movement. Select your tip size, and pressures from thechart. Practice traveling at the recommended IPM (inches per minute).For travel speed practice, run the unlit torch along the cut line as you count to yourself, oneonethousand, twoonethousand... Soapstone mark the pattern at where the torch cut should be every 5 seconds, to help pace yourself. When you pass a mark, restartyour 5 second count. This will help you learn to keep optimum cutting speed.Cutting on clean steel requires very little pre-heat. Remember you actually should burn or combust the steel, not melt it and blow it away.For short cuts on thin material, such as tubing, I usually rest the torch stationary and roll it through the cut. Usually this will cut about 4 inches with little distortion.For really nice cuts you have to do some prep work. The cut line should be scrubbed clean with a grinder. Anything you can do to steady and smooth torch movement helps.One of my favorites is a washer on the torch tip, sliding on an angle iron guide:Attachment 20650Notice that height was set by spacing the angle away from the work.I rub soapstone on the angle guide, for a smooth slide.Attachment 20651The pictured cuts are quite smooth, photos exaggerate the lines. A little chipping would make them good enough for most uses.If these had to be super high quality cuts, or were an expensive piece, I would have ground the paint off, top and bottom, andselected the tip size and pressures from the chart. Maybe even put the "training wheels" on the torch. When flame cutting on an expensive piece, the set up and trial run, take longer than the actual cut.Good LuckLast edited by denrep; 10-19-2010 at 11:33 PM.