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Hi,Got my new Thermal Arc 185 AC/DC TIG machine this week... I need to sharpen the electrode. What is the proper tool to use for this purpose? A bench grinder? A steel file? I don't want to contaminate the electrode before I even strike an arc... I will be doing that plenty enough as it is... thanksThaddeusAn odd fellow, but nice enough. I build "interesting" things.
Reply:a diamond wheel is preffered.an plane old bench grinder and standard wheel will do fine but the tungsted will wear grooves in it fairly quickly.you roll the tungsten between your fingers as you grind to make a pencil point. but nt quite as sharp an angle as a pencil.
Reply:Thanks!An odd fellow, but nice enough. I build "interesting" things.
Reply:oh, and the grinding scratches should run lenghtwise. so you need to hold the tungsten tangent to the wheel.
Reply:I'm glad you posted that, because I would have gone perpendicular to the wheel otherwise.An odd fellow, but nice enough. I build "interesting" things.
Reply:I use a spare / dedicated belt sander and use my cordless drill to turn the tungsten.I welded an extension to the backing plate on the vertical belt so I can sharpen the shorter tungstens without hitting the drill chuck on the top wheel that spins the belt. With the backing plate, I have a flat surface to rest against for a perfect grind in a few seconds.Build a Barstool Racer at BarFlyRacers.com!
Reply:I use a drill Doctor. Remove the dust cover and have at it. Diamond wheel makes short work of tungsten.
Reply:Originally Posted by dsergisonoh, and the grinding scratches should run lenghtwise. so you need to hold the tungsten tangent to the wheel.
Reply:Originally Posted by ironkenAhhh, another Bueller on this forum!
Reply:Originally Posted by ThaddeusWhat does that mean?
Reply:Originally Posted by Shox DrThey both have a picture of a Buell in their Avatars
Reply:More about the tungstens.The angle should be about 70º like a sharpened pencil and the sides should be straight. not curved or concave. if the side of the angled point are curved the arc tries to initiate from the SIDE of the point instead of THE point. a table type sander helps keep the sides of the angle straight.Or like that guy said, he used a belt sander.Use the blue zirconium abrasive paper about 100-150 grit.The smoother the job the longer the tungsten will last.If the weld bead has lots of swirls in the texture instead of beads or stacks of dimes it means that the point of the tungsten has become ragged.Always try to keep your tungsten grinding in the same place to avoid spreading the tungsten all over your work area. It is a health hazard so keep it confined.Tungsten is heavier than lead so it does not blow around like other types of dust.They make tungsten grinders that you can find out about by Googling but make sure the grinder can grind partial length tungstens.
Reply:IMHOThere is no set angle that works best for all GTAW. The angle that you grind on the tungsten is directly proportional to the desired penetration. Now, before you say "He's not the sharpest tunsten on the workbench", consider:The sharper the tip, the lower the penetration. The blunter the tip, the deeper the penetration. A sharper tungsten "fans" out the arc more, and the blunter tip makes the arc more of a cylinder.I know it sounds counter-intuitive, but I ran some bead-on-plate for my guys to show them, and then cut cross sections to show them the blunter angle gives the deeper penetration. We use a 30 degree included angle for all our deep penetration work, and 60 degree for sheet metal and cosmetic passes. Some of our multi-pass welds call for 30 degree on the root and 2nd pass, then change to 60 for the cap. Helps reduce undercutting on the final pass.Want to see a real deep weld? Don't point your tungsten at all. Put it in just like you got it out of the box. Lincoln rep showed me this when I was a little KBNIT. Arc resembles what you'd get with a plasma weld, and the penetration was 2x what a sharp tungsten produced.I use the Diamond Ground Products Pihranna II to grind tungstens. It has a diamond wheel (yes, expensive) but properly used lasts for years and years. The diamond wheel polishes the angle on the tungsten so arc starts are beautiful.AWS Handbook on Welding Processes has a pretty cool picture of the arc shapes and depths of penetration in the GTAW section.I r 2 a perfessional
Reply:IS the arc harder to control with a blunt tungsten as opposed to a sharpened one?HTP Invertig 201Lincoln Idealarc SP250Miller 180 AC StickBy farmall:They should have held the seagull closer to the work, squeezing evenly for best deposition.
Reply:knibit I think your angle terms are all hosed up?30 deg included means very pointy.60 deg included is less pointy. 90 deg included would mean a cornerand 180 would be flat ended.
Reply:Dsergison,The angles described are as measured from the flat on the end of the tungsten.An unsharpened tungsten has, by definition, no angle, so it is 0 degrees.Start with the 0 degree of an unsharpened tungsten, grind back 30 degrees, blunt, grind back 60 degrees, sharp. Grind back 90 degrees, dust.You're describing the angle as it relates to the long axis of the tungsten, in which case, you're descriptions would be correct except that 90 degrees would indicate a flat end, and 180 degrees would not be possible.I r 2 a perfessional
Reply:Originally Posted by kbnitIMHOThere is no set angle that works best for all GTAW. The angle that you grind on the tungsten is directly proportional to the desired penetration. Now, before you say "He's not......... (shortened)
Reply:Originally Posted by Donald BranscomIf the weld bead has lots of swirls in the texture instead of beads or stacks of dimes it means that the point of the tungsten has become ragged. |
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发表于 2021-8-31 23:57:56