Need some more tig help

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I am still practicing with the tig welder and I really enjoy it, much more than mig. I have a few issues though. First of all I have read about "walking the cup" versus dragging it?? What exactly are we talking, using the cup as a guide or something? Is that wrong to do? I found my self doing that on some tube joints. Another issue I seemed to have was with adding filler I would try and let the arc burn the filler, but I have been reading to push filler into the puddle. That seems like it would work alot better! Finally I tried welding some aluminum, I switched the machine to AC (its an old miller 300a refridgerator sized machine) and I would have to pretty much floor the peddle to get the arc started then back way off and I had to move really fast it seemed. I am using a thoriated tungsten. Some tips could help, I will try and get pics thanks HTP Invertig 201Lincoln Idealarc SP250Miller 180 AC StickBy farmall:They should have held the seagull closer to the work, squeezing evenly for best deposition.
Reply:Walking the cup allows a consistant ESO and keeps the hand steady.  Dipping the filler in the molton puddle is the correct way to do it. The rest is practice,"""""""""""""""""""".   JohnSMAW,GMAW,FCAW,GTAW,SAW,PAC/PAW/OFCand Shielding Gases.  There all here. :
Reply:Well what exactly is walking the cup?? I dont know the terms really? ESO? Also HF start I wasnt sure of either...HTP Invertig 201Lincoln Idealarc SP250Miller 180 AC StickBy farmall:They should have held the seagull closer to the work, squeezing evenly for best deposition.
Reply:im guessing he means electrode stick out...Walking the cup basically means you rest the cup on the metal your welding so that it will hold a constant arc length.  That being said, dont walk the cup, learn how to weld without "crutches" like that.  Try just resting your arm on your table and swinging the torch over the metal, after youve been welding for a awhile your arm will build the muscles needed to keep your arm steady.  What happens when you cant walk the cup and still have to put down a quality weld?  Your HF should be on continous, what size aluminum are you welding?  It takes alot of heat to get going because aluminum conducts heat very well, so it spreads out the heat of the arc quickly.  You will most likely have to let up on the pedal as you go to maintain a consistent pudddle, again because aluminum conducts heat well.  Refrigerator huh?  is it an old syncrowave?  I call em Cadillacs...theyre big, but theyre are a sweet machine.
Reply:Originally Posted by fordmanI am still practicing with the tig welder and I really enjoy it, much more than mig. I have a few issues though. First of all I have read about "walking the cup" versus dragging it?? What exactly are we talking, using the cup as a guide or something? Is that wrong to do? I found my self doing that on some tube joints. Another issue I seemed to have was with adding filler I would try and let the arc burn the filler, but I have been reading to push filler into the puddle. That seems like it would work alot better! Finally I tried welding some aluminum, I switched the machine to AC (its an old miller 300a refridgerator sized machine) and I would have to pretty much floor the peddle to get the arc started then back way off and I had to move really fast it seemed. I am using a thoriated tungsten. Some tips could help, I will try and get pics thanks
Reply:I have no idea what the welder is, its got the really old miller logo on it, it works great. I practice on some steel today and the whole filler into the puddle improved everything! I am trying to learn aluminum because of a small part I need to build for my car but I dont need to rush it, it will be 1/4" with a bung welded in. I think I have the wrong filler, so I need to go and buy some. I dont think this thing has a pulse feature in it, all it has is three position lever for amperage plus a dial. Then DC + AC and DC-. One more thing for those who tig cages, does anyone use footpedal for that? Seems it would be rediculous to setup.HTP Invertig 201Lincoln Idealarc SP250Miller 180 AC StickBy farmall:They should have held the seagull closer to the work, squeezing evenly for best deposition.
Reply:Originally Posted by fordmanWell what exactly is walking the cup?? I dont know the terms really? ESO? Also HF start I wasnt sure of either...
Reply:John, HF is the High Frequency is applied between the electrode and the workpiece in order to aid in the establishment of the electrical arc.  That is what "HF Start" refers to, and is selectable in DCSP, DCRP, or AC.  The switching of polarity during the welding to allow the breakup of the oxide is Alternating Current, or AC. Did like the "electrotons", though.I r 2 a perfessional
Reply:Originally Posted by kbnitJohn, HF is the High Frequency is applied between the electrode and the workpiece in order to aid in the establishment of the electrical arc.  That is what "HF Start" refers to, and is selectable in DCSP, DCRP, or AC.  The switching of polarity during the welding to allow the breakup of the oxide is Alternating Current, or AC. Did like the "electrotons", though.
Reply:Been reading this thread and brought up a question...Does "walking the cup" refer to the torch cup resting on the workpiece only to steady the arc length? Or... does "walking the cup" refer to the above but using a side to side motion to achieve a weave type pattern to the bead?Curious as to which is which
Reply:Originally Posted by LurninItBeen reading this thread and brought up a question...Does "walking the cup" refer to the torch cup resting on the workpiece only to steady the arc length? Or... does "walking the cup" refer to the above but using a side to side motion to achieve a weave type pattern to the bead?Curious as to which is which
Reply:What "DRIVETHRUBOY 54 " said is right on. Forget that "walk the cup stuff. Just learn to weld with proper technique. Many jobs would not allow that practice.I know this is not popular but it is the truth.Do not let the ceramic cup touch the surface.The HIGH Frequency should be on "continous" when welding aluminum because that is what helps to clean the oxides off.
Reply:Yeah I practiced today and I can weld pretty good just using my finger and guiding my arm along, I just have a hard time getting that consistant bead. I did some destructive testing and was pretty impressied on some round tube, the weld didnt break so thats a good sign! My HF was off so I clicked it to the start mode and that helped me out alot as well! I had a hard time with the filler metal sticking, is that a lack of heat or the wrong filler angle or both? I found that if I move the bead forward, dip the filler then move then puddle back and do that it helped to unstick the filler metal..HTP Invertig 201Lincoln Idealarc SP250Miller 180 AC StickBy farmall:They should have held the seagull closer to the work, squeezing evenly for best deposition.
Reply:John,I would love to read your book.  Please PM me with the info so that I can purchase it.I didn't mean to disparage, I was only referring to other published works that indicate that the reversal of polarity from straight to reverse polarity is what breaks up the oxide, and the high frequency is what is needed to A - initiate the arc, and B - Stabilize the arc during the voltage reversal.  AWS Welding Handbook Volume 2, Eighth edition, pages 86 and 87.KBI r 2 a perfessional