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Stainless counter top help

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发表于 2021-8-31 23:57:49 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
I installed the grill.  To make it fit, we took out some sheves and part of the counter top.  We also took out a gas powered grill for hamburgs.   This left a hole in the counter top so I had some 18 gauge bent up to fit.  The new piece fits over everything so its a lap weld right on top of the existing top.   I welded it in place with .023 wire and tri mix gas.  It made an effin mess.  I could not grind it down to blend the two pieces. I then took the tig to smooze it out and flatten the mig weld.  All I did was make a bigger mess.  I need help.   I have no pictures right now.   How do you put a lap weld or seam in the middle of a counter top so it does not warp and look decent.All advice appreciated.   OR if you are from western NY and know how to do stainless counter tops I have a job for you.   ThanksDavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Large blocks of aluminum and lots of clamps. Also be ready with a wet rag if you want to change things while its hot. If you have low spots dolly it with a punch from the back side, and then hit it with the grinder. If you redo it definitely leave the mig out of it. The lap is probably going to be hard to blend and make look nice.Best of luck
Reply:Hey David,I do a bit of restaurant repairs/mods, & at times, the only solution was silver-solder as it is an acceptable process for restaurant equipment.DennyComplete Welding/Machine/Fab. ShopMobile UnitFinally retired*Moderator*"A man's word is his honor...without honor there is nothing.""Words are like bullets.... Once they leave your muzzle, you cannot get them back."
Reply:Thin sheet metal is not easy to weld without warping.Stainless tends to warp more than carbon steel.Thin stainless steel sheet metal thus tends to warp when welded.  A lot.Answer is heat control.  Clamp well, chill blocks on the back and surrounding area, small welds with minimal heat input and then let that small weld cool before doing any more welding.  Skip weld.  Use every 'trick' you know or can think of regarding heat control and warping control.Pretty much about a million small 'spot' welds instead of running a long bead.  If you run a bead at all, it would probably be a very short one. IMHO.And a lap weld can't be blended down to 'flat', the upper piece will always be on top of the lower piece.  If you need or want the counter to not have a 'step' or raised section means you have to do a butt weld.  And still do all the heat/warp control tricks and then grind it all flush afterwards.If you buggered the counter, you may just want to yank it all and put in 'new'.  Sucks $$$$ though.  Either that, or learn to do sheetmetal hammer/dolly work.  Fast.    The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:David, the last counter I welded, I back stepped 1/2 inch at a time.If you can follow this next line it will explain it.1..2..3..4..5..6..7..8..9..9..8..7..6..5..4..3..2.  .1I welded 1s then 2s then 3s till I met in the middle.  I used just enough heat to get the job done.  I also had some large heat sinks and magnetic strong backs.  This was a seamless counter top.  I would also like to heat what professional counter top guys do.  I was flying by the seat of my pants, but it worked.
Reply:What has been said above.  I will add once its a mess, your really really Fornicated.   Takes a master above my skill level to straiten out a real proper stainless disaster.Vantage 500's LN-25's, VI-400's, cobramatics, Miller migs, synch 350 LX, Powcon inverters, XMT's, 250 Ton Acurrpress 12' brake, 1/4" 10' Atlantic shear,Koikie plasma table W/ esab plasmas. marvel & hyd-mech saws, pirrana & metal muncher punches.
Reply:i would cut the piece out an inch or so from where you miged it and have another piece bent a little wider, and back step and jump 1/2 inch at a time, and if you have some clam some 4by aluminum box under it. gotta take you time wit thin stainless or itll end up a mess
Reply:Back side is inaccessible unless I cut a hole..  ..I brought some clamps and heavy angle for brace or heatsink or clamp.   Nuttin honey.  I will be looking into it more monday with a clear head.  I have been doing a lot of stainless lately and it can be a chore.   Makes aluminum look easy.;  Stainless scrap pile growing fast. I have been thinking finding a way to get aluminum on the back side and screwing it to a piece on top.  When done   I could then take out the screws and weld the holes shut.  This would be a clamp and heat sink.   I have a 6' piece of aluminum  6" channel I could use.  Basically weld it cold like an engine block.  Back step no more than one inch.  wait till I can put my hand on it.DavidLast edited by David R; 02-25-2012 at 08:10 PM.Real world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
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