TIG Welding 101, how to get started?

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First off, I am a hobbyist welder with not much experience.  I have experience with stick, MIG, and Oxyfuel welding steel.  I have taken one class on Oxy/Fuel and stick welding and found it to be way too basic.I recently purchased a Lincoln 175 squarewave TIG machine and want to learn how to TIG weld.  I know I need a bottle of argon and some consumables.  What gauge/type metal is the best to learn the TIG process?  Mild steel?  Aluminum?  From reading the Miller TIG welding online instruction, it seems that you select the electrode type/ diameter/ tip and gas lens size based on the material and thickness.   I am also looking for an instructor in eastern MA to help along with the learning process.Chris
Reply:I am in a hurry this morning, but the easiest way is to get about a dozen tungstens sharpened up, and start on clean steel. Just start sticking filler to the tungsten, stick the tungsten to the steel, crack a ceramic cup or two when you drop the torch, and let the hot torch tip burn your leg as you hang the hose over your shoulder. (Zap gives extra points if you can miraculously burn your ballsac....don't ask!!) and then, for kicks, weld at a lower amp setting so your auto darkening hood will flash you real good a couple of times. After that, you'll be a pro!!!And then, after so much work...... you have it in your hand, and you look over to your side...... and the runner has run off. Leaving you holding the prize, wondering when the runner will return.
Reply:Originally Posted by RojodiabloI am in a hurry this morning, but the easiest way is to get about a dozen tungstens sharpened up, and start on clean steel. Just start sticking filler to the tungsten, stick the tungsten to the steel, crack a ceramic cup or two when you drop the torch, and let the hot torch tip burn your leg as you hang the hose over your shoulder. (Zap gives extra points if you can miraculously burn your ballsac....don't ask!!) and then, for kicks, weld at a lower amp setting so your auto darkening hood will flash you real good a couple of times. After that, you'll be a pro!!!
Reply:Wow, nothing makes a morning as great as a nice cup of sarcasm! LOL..
Reply:Sarcastic, yes, but the ugly underlying truth remains. Sounds a lot like my learning curve. Right down to the broken cup and self induced electro shock therapy.As a fellow neubi tigger, start with simple stuff. I found it quite discoraging when the first thing I tried was to tig together a buch of thin stainless sheat metal cones into a tuned exhaust pipe, seconded that I tried to build up an alumminium alloy piston from a small engine.Getting there, but still I do much better when it comes to lap joints on 1/8 inch plate. Would have been less frustrating to start with that kind of basic stuff and progress, rather than getting into tougher things and have to stop to redo things and practice basic tequnique before moving forward.Stick with steel and get the bugs worked out before trying to deal with aluminium, Stainless ect.Last edited by Timberwolf; 07-28-2008 at 01:00 PM.
Reply:excellent reply, rojo, except you forgot to add try it with the electrode positive....ouch...
Reply:Originally Posted by TimberwolfGetting there, but still I do much better when it comes to lap joints on 1/8 inch plate.
Reply:Mostly adding filler. Made some fusion welds on thin stainless but cracking was a problem under the application.Filler can be a pain to get the hang of, thing I was screwing up at first was pulling filler rod out of the shielding area. That and trying to melt the filler rather than dab/push it into the puddle.
Reply:Rojo nailed it. You can't weld mill scale. Tig hates mill scale. A wire brush on a 4 1/2" grinder won't remove mill scale. It will polish it up like chrome, but it will still be MS. A flap disk won't gouge your piece like a grinding wheel. Don't try to continue your weld with a contaminated tungsten, stop and grind it: again, and again, and again...... If your tungsten is clean, your arc should be almost white. My arc turns green when contaminated. You cannot use coathangers or O/A rod. You need ER70S-2 or -6. -6 has more deoxidizers which allow welding a somewhat dirtier base metal. Buy -6 if they have it, every little bit helps.100% argon, 15 cfh is ok. Pick one color tungsten and stick with it, you don't need any complications. Blue seems to be well liked, IMHO. Although I use red cause the others weren't invented when I bought mine. Stickout should be 1/2 the cup diameter. I use a #8 (1/2"), it give me more surface coverage and fits what I do. 3/32" tungsten will do almost everything for now. TIG likes a short arc, try for 1/8". Wear wraparound safety glasses under you helmet.The above info took me forever to learn on my own, without the internet.9-11-2001......We Will Never ForgetRetired desk jockey. Hobby weldor with a little training. Craftsman O/A---Flat, Vert, Ovhd, Horz. Miller Syncrowave 250
Reply:Rojo left out leaving your heavy denim shirt unsnapped and cranking it up and running for about 6 hours. I never knew you could get sunburn through a black t-shirt.Craig is right on the safety glasses especially on aluminum. I got a splinter of it in my eye off of my hood a couple of hours after I finished the tig job. Only time I have ever had to get anything dug out. It came in over my glasses when I flipped my hood down. You can't even see it like steel.The difference between art and craft is the quality of the workmanship. I am an artist.
Reply:I would get yourself several pieces of 1/8"-3/16" mild steel to practice on. Make the pieces about 3x5 to 4x6 and start off making and maintaining a puddle. Then run basic stringers adding filler. You want to run 1-2 beads on a plate then set that one aside to cool and start on a different piece. The heat buildup will mess with your heat settings, so try and work with a warm to cool piece rather than a hot one.I would set the machine at say 150- 180amps and get a feel how the pedal controls the puddle. Use a red tungsten to start, they're easy to get and relatively cheap. You will spend lots of time regrinding the tungsten after you contaminate it. I would get some 1/16" or 3/32 filler to play with.Post up some picts of your attempts with the setting you use. Good luck
Reply:Originally Posted by Craig in Denver100% argon, 15 cfh is ok. Pick one color tungsten and stick with it, you don't need any complications. Blue seems to be well liked, IMHO. Although I use red cause the others weren't invented when I bought mine. Stickout should be 1/2 the cup diameter. I use a #8 (1/2"), it give me more surface coverage and fits what I do. 3/32" tungsten will do almost everything for now. TIG likes a short arc, try for 1/8". Wear wraparound safety glasses under you helmet.The above info took me forever to learn on my own, without the internet.
Reply:Yes, press the peddal down to start and get puddle going quicker, saves putting extra heat in for no good, then back it off to run the bead. you can go up and down with current as required, but you want to stay as even with the power as possible to keep the bead profile and penetration even along the weld. Peddal allows tapering off to fill the crater at the end.Also welding odd shaped things with uneven thicknesses you can adapt the peddal pressure to suit how much heat you want to put in different areas. Can pump the peddal too, to control heat as well ,much as a pulser would do and then time your filler application with that. The quick pulsing of heat puts in a little more penetration without increasing the total amount of heat your putting into the piece.
Reply:Last question, why the recomendation for the safely goggles?  I wear them while grinding, but just normally wear my hood while welding.Chris
Reply:Originally Posted by *chris*Last question, why the recomendation for the safely goggles?  I wear them while grinding, but just normally wear my hood while welding.Chris
Reply:You never know what might happen. I've had a few surprising spits when I hit a pocket of crud on a previous weld or toasted a tungesten. You would be amazed how chipped up my glasses have gotten working behind a face shield over the years. I always wear them. even then I occsionally get something that seems to get by even those and hi me in the face near my eyes.
Reply:Originally Posted by *chris*Craig and others, thanks for the advice.  It looks like I will buy some 1/8th steel strap and have at it.  I have been reading the Miller TIG handbook and your suggestions completely jive with what they recommend.
Reply:Your biggest problem will be a dirty tungsten. Recognizing when its dirty. Like when the arc wanders or when you start an arc it goes off to one side. And especially when it turns green. I am not great at tig but I can recognize when its dirty. When its clean you can do your best welds. If you even think its dirty, grind it. Dirty metal will jump up and contaminate the tung. as well as the weld. If you see sparking from dirty material, grind it.In other words GRIND GRIND GRIND. Most people have a bench grinder and a cordless drill. I use this combo when doing a bunch of tungs. otherwise just my fingers.I tend to use Lanthanated blue or gold. Both work well. I dont like ceriated.Good luck.mm135HTP Invertig 201 With water cooler9" Southbend LatheLots of hand tools.
Reply:Alright, here is my first attempt.  Settings:110 amps Lincoln square wave TIGGold lanthanated tungsten 1/16"3/8" cup (#6 I think)Argon 15 CFHER-70-2 filler 1/16"base metal 1/8" mild steel.My LWS did not have the 3/32" tungsten in stock so I will have to order it.There is a lot of things going on between the pedal, the torch and the filler rod.  I think I really need a larger electrode for 1/8" thick metal plus the filler rod melted way too quick!For some reason it is cratery at the end of my welds, how long after I let off the torch should I let the argon pass over the weld?  Should I hold position until the welder shuts off the gas?  What do you do when you need to reposition your hand on the filler metal, let off on the pedal to shrink the pool?Chris
Reply:Originally Posted by *chris*Settings:110 amps Lincoln square wave TIGGold lanthanated tungsten 1/16"3/8" cup (#6 I think) cup size = 1/16", so yes 3/8" = #6; 1/2" = #8Argon 15 CFHER-70-2 filler 1/16" Bead size depends on filler size. 1/16" will need a lot of filler. I'd use 3/32" filler for 1/8".base metal 1/8" mild steel.My LWS did not have the 3/32" tungsten in stock so I will have to order it. 3/32" tungsten will do most of your welding, for now.There is a lot of things going on between the pedal, the torch and the filler rod.  I think I really need a larger electrode for 1/8" thick metal plus the filler rod melted way too quick!For some reason it is cratery at the end of my welds, how long after I let off the torch should I let the argon pass over the weld?  Should I hold position until the welder shuts off the gas? Yes, hold your torch over the weld until the gas stops; 6 seconds will protect the tungsten. A couple of filler dabs will fill the crater.  What do you do when you need to reposition your hand on the filler metal, let off on the pedal to shrink the pool? Yes.Chris