Harbor Freight part for my Compressor

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I bought this compressor drainage kit that automatically drains the condensation at the bottom of the tank when pressure changes in the pressure relief tube part # 68244.I was wondering if anyone has ever used this thing with much success?I have a 33gallon craftsman verticle compressor.thanks in advance.
Reply:I bought one of those from HF, or at least it looks similar. I put it on a 60 gallon compressor. As far as I'm concerned it was a pos. As soon as my compressor kicked on the valve opened so the compressor just never quit running as long as I was using it. I took the thing back pretty fast. I'm sure it was installed correctly. I just didn't like it.
Reply:THanks..I am not sure if you will be able to see this album with the current install to my compressor.I don't know where the water is suppose come out from ....it bugs me.
Reply:I installed one of those on my old Crapsman 30 gallon 5 HP compressor.  It worked well all summer and I was very pleased, then the temps dropped below freezing and it shot craps.  Moisture in the valve frozen and ruptured the diaphragm, causing it to leak constantly.  I removed the auto drain and installed a cable pull drain valve like they use on air reservoirs on large trucks.   The pull cable is routed out from under the compressor to a location so I can just reach down and pop it every so often.  I also used a tee with a length of 1/4" pipe out to a ball valve so I can easily drain the tank at the end of the day. The other thing I learned the hard way, was that the supplied plastic tubing will get hot enough to blow out.  I replaced the tubing with stainless brake line I happened to have a few decent scrap lengths of.  Seamless AC copper should work OK as well.If my shop was heated or at least maintained a temp above freezing, I would probably still be using the valve.RogerOld, Tired, and GRUMPYSalesman will call, Batteries not included, Assembly is required, and FREE ADVICE IS WORTH EXACTLY WHAT YOU PAY FOR IT!Dial Arc 250HFThunderbolt 225 AC/DCAssorted A/O torches
Reply:My IR one doesn't like freezing either.  It doesn't destroy anything.  It just constantly leaks air when a piece of ice gets in the valve.Dynasty200DX w/coolmate1MM210MM VintageESAB miniarc161ltsLincoln AC225Victor O/A, Smith AW1ACutmaster 81IR 2475N7.5FPRage3Jancy USA1019" SBAEAD-200LE
Reply:Originally Posted by Rog02I installed one of those on my old Crapsman 30 gallon 5 HP compressor.  It worked well all summer and I was very pleased, then the temps dropped below freezing and it shot craps.  Moisture in the valve frozen and ruptured the diaphragm, causing it to leak constantly.  I removed the auto drain and installed a cable pull drain valve like they use on air reservoirs on large trucks.   The pull cable is routed out from under the compressor to a location so I can just reach down and pop it every so often.  I also used a tee with a length of 1/4" pipe out to a ball valve so I can easily drain the tank at the end of the day. The other thing I learned the hard way, was that the supplied plastic tubing will get hot enough to blow out.  I replaced the tubing with stainless brake line I happened to have a few decent scrap lengths of.  Seamless AC copper should work OK as well.If my shop was heated or at least maintained a temp above freezing, I would probably still be using the valve.
Reply:You are best off to just put a drain on the bottom where you can..Ball valves are good...Piece of hose to a container and you are good to go.....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:You don't have to drain everytime the compressor cycles. If you are using it alot then a couple times a day would probably be fine.Millermatic 200Hobart Handler 120Victor O/A & Ramco BandsawLincoln 225 ACSnapOn AD HoodMiller XMT304/22AHypertherm Powermax 1650 G3Lincoln Idealarc DC600 w/Extreme 12 VSMiller Digital Elite "Joker"
Reply:Originally Posted by RaptorDunerYou don't have to drain everytime the compressor cycles. If you are using it alot then a couple times a day would probably be fine.
Reply:Originally Posted by vdotmatrixI just installed the replace from HARBOR FRIGHT and it leaks at the t below. I am weary not to crack the housing again and maybe this isn't meant to be tweaked or wrapped with too much Teflon.gonna try one more thing...anyway the pull valve...do you mean like that valve with the ring on it near the gauges on my craftsman? or do you have a picture or description..More and more I am leaning to the 1/4 ball valve setup. all ya have to do is quickly open and close that to expel water and some air after filling the tank and you are good until you fill the tank again right....when you compress the air you concentrate the water-it condenses, you don't compress after filling the tank you don't get additional water. right!!thanks for the responsesv
Reply:Thanks for the pictures! Very nice indeed. When you pull the cable does the valve stay open of does it stay open as long as it is being pulled? That would be really nice!!!Th completely removed this automatic drain valve an hour ago. The Tee cracked in the same place and this is the replacement...here is the pictureso I can either do one of these  or and do what you did!!what a self imposed headache...thanks for sharing your images.
Reply:Why am I getting the sneaking feeling that you have the water drain at the side of the air receiver and not the bottom?Miller thunderbolt 250Decastar 135ERecovering tool-o-holic ESAB OAI have been interested or involved in Electrical, Fire Alarm, Auto, Marine, Welding, Electronics ETC to name a just a few. So YES you can own too many tools.
Reply:Originally Posted by dumb as a stumpWhy am I getting the sneaking feeling that you have the water drain at the side of the air receiver and not the bottom?
Reply:Complete POS, don't waste your time.  I bought one 2 weeks ago thinking what a deal, but I should have known better.  Funny, I even hesitated before the install thinking I should just go with a simple ball valve, but I persisted.The thing leaked from the getgo.  All connections were teflon fitted and no cracks or damage from overtorquing.  It kept leaking out the drainage port once the tank hit 100PSI.  Returned it and got a replacement.  Installed that one and the same thing...  I'm done wasting my time with this. I also cut into the copper pressure release line and will have to replace that now that I have the new ball valve in...  My advice, don't bother.On the bright side... I did get to install a nice little lift kit on my compressor to create the necessary clearance under the tank to fit this failed creation.  It's sporting 10" pneumatic tires now with a 6" lift Last edited by eponator; 09-06-2011 at 07:36 PM.Reason: punctuation
Reply:Originally Posted by eponatorComplete POS, don't waste your time.  I bought one 2 weeks ago thinking what a deal, but I should have known better.  Funny, I even hesitated before the install thinking I should just go with a simple ball valve, but I persisted.The thing leaked from the getgo.  All connections were teflon fitted and no cracks or damage from overtorquing.  It kept leaking out the drainage port once the tank hit 100PSI.  Returned it and got a replacement.  Installed that one and the same thing...  I'm done wasting my time with this. I also cut into the copper pressure release line and will have to replace that now that I have the new ball valve in...  My advice, don't bother.On the bright side... I did get to install a nice little lift kit on my compressor to create the necessary clearance under the tank to fit this failed creation.  It's sporting 10" pneumatic tires now with a 6" lift
Reply:Originally Posted by eponatorComplete POS, don't waste your time.  I bought one 2 weeks ago thinking what a deal, but I should have known better.  Funny, I even hesitated before the install thinking I should just go with a simple ball valve, but I persisted.The thing leaked from the getgo.  All connections were teflon fitted and no cracks or damage from overtorquing.  It kept leaking out the drainage port once the tank hit 100PSI.  Returned it and got a replacement.  Installed that one and the same thing...  I'm done wasting my time with this. I also cut into the copper pressure release line and will have to replace that now that I have the new ball valve in...  My advice, don't bother.On the bright side... I did get to install a nice little lift kit on my compressor to create the necessary clearance under the tank to fit this failed creation.  It's sporting 10" pneumatic tires now with a 6" lift
Reply:Originally Posted by vdotmatrixBIG QUESTION: once I install the ball valve and once the tank cycles and fills with air and water and the compressor has shut off at around140 psi-    Are you just opening the ball valve a little to expel some air?Is there any danger of not being able to shut this valve again or the compressor flying away?
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsterPiece of hose to a container and you are good to go.....zap!
Reply:I replaced the Harbor Fright hardware with the following  1/4" ball valve and galvanized...I routed the pipe this way because i wanted to have the valve accessible but pointing it straight out wouldn't allow me to lay the thing on its side for any reason without  hitting the floor with the valve.I also wanted it conveniently accessible from the front with total access and control of the valve but also have it a little protected...I guess all this doesn't matter but there is a question in my future:I have the opening pointing away; does it matter that this branch comes out then up, instead of just straight out?Any water is going to be expelled but any water will also collect in this branch.Is this ok?
Reply:Found this page where someone ran into similar issues:http://www.paragoncode.com/shop/compressor/Hope that helps. Seems pipe sealant (not tape) and a new petcock from Home Depot are key parts to add. (That and maybe go for copper instead of plastic on the line if extreme temps) There is a suggestion on tapping different location to subject the line to less heat.Last edited by sj_engr; 09-07-2011 at 06:16 PM.
Reply:Originally Posted by sj_engrFound this page where someone ran into similar issues:http://www.paragoncode.com/shop/compressor/Hope that helps. Seems pipe sealant (not tape) and a new petcock from Home Depot are key parts to add. (That and maybe go for copper instead of plastic on the line if extreme temps) There is a suggestion on tapping different location to subject the line to less heat.
Reply:I have the kit on my 80Gal Ingrosol rand compressor. It works great after some tweaks. The first thing i did was throw all the crap that came with it away. And use all good alpha fittings and copper tubing and brass pipe. I used a compression T with copper tubing ran down to the valve, Then replaced the fitting on the unit with a compression also(the ones that come with it wont work on copper). I took the valve apart and replaced the crappy o rings with good viton rubber ones. Also you don't just crank down the two half's if you do the internal valve can not move back and forth to let the pressure off. you can adjust the amount of air release by the depth of the two pieces. Then i put a brass nipple on the outlet into a 1/4 inch clear tubing to drain off the water. I get about 1-2 sec of drain ever time it cycles on or off. But it works like a charm. I look at it like i can buy the brass to machine the main part for 8 bucks so all the other crap in the box just throw it away and do it right.
Reply:well mine worked great too but only for a weekMiller Challenger 172Miller Thunderbolt AC/DC 225/150Miller Maxstar 150 STLVictor 100CVictor JourneymanOxweld OAHarris O/ASmith O/A little torchNo, that's not my car.
Reply:I been around air compressors a lot of years - here's my 2¢ on ADV's - auto drain valves - some will work fine for a while - but over time all air tanks rust inside - the ADV's have very small ports and a very small piece or flake of rust will mess it up  The best drain you can have is a small ball valve that you open couple times a week -  I piped mine outside of shop with plastic tubeing 1/4" ID - just make sure tube doesn't get stoped up or it will blow off or explode - as long as it is open it will handle pressureJust my .02¢ -
Reply:I have a variation ( I guess) I 90'd then steel line (with compression fittings) so that I can take the valve up 1 foot off the floor to allow the end to sit inside a windshield washer bottle. Easier to reach and the  water goes in a container that is not messy and convenient to dump. I just crack the valve to allow water to drain out occasionally. I also like that the water also has somewhere to go that is outside the pressure vessel to sit till I drain it.Miller thunderbolt 250Decastar 135ERecovering tool-o-holic ESAB OAI have been interested or involved in Electrical, Fire Alarm, Auto, Marine, Welding, Electronics ETC to name a just a few. So YES you can own too many tools.I ran some 1/4" tubing from where the drain was to a more convenient place.  Put a ball valve on it there and then a little nipple.One warning, if you put on a large ball valve, the water will shoot out at the full 125 psi.  For me, I just crack the valve slowly.  I might be able to add some sort of 'muffler' to slow things down a bit.   Just not worth the trouble.I actually have a timed, automatic drain.  Need to attach it.  Runs off 110V and simply opens a solenoid for a second.   I think I'd want to run it off 220 and wire it to the same circuit as the compressor.  Again, too much work for what I need right now.Con Fuse!Miller Dynasty 350Millermatic 350P-Spoolmatic 30AMiller Multimatic 200Hypertherm PowerMax 1000G3Miller Maxstar 200DX