Syncrowave 250 dx wont arc in tig mode.

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Ok, this made a crappy day into a REAL crappy day (even for a friday)One of my coworkers brings me a quick project today. So I flip on the Tig, set the selector to DC-, get ready to knock out this 5 min job....and nothing on ANY polarity. I just used this machine yesterday with no problems and the ONLY thing I did was swap a tank of gas at the end of the day.Here is a list of things I have done. In pretty much the order I done themMade sure all the settings was correct of course. Process - Tig, amps - remote, output - remote (I have a foot pedal) and start mode - HF cont.Checked the regulator and gas flow.Checked the ground, couldnt get an arc on the clamp itself.Pulled both connectors (lead and ground) and cleaned them.Put a different collet and brand new tungsten in the torch head.Unhooked the Tig torch and hooked up the stick stinger. set all the setting for stick. process - Stick, amps - panel, output - on, start mode - off. welds fine any polarity.Got the manual out and turned to the trouble shooting, checked the connection and cable for the foot pedal, no visible signs and no fried wire smellPulled the torch head apart and checked the power wire connection. Even went as far to pull the side cover off and clean and check the spark gap as per the manual. Still nothing.Finally stopped messing with it before I grabbed a hammer and started swinging any ideas?If you cant fix it with a hammer, it must be an electrical problem."Boy, everyone starts with a full bag of luck and an empty bag of experience. The trick is to fill the bag of experience before the bag of luck is empty."-Grandad circa 1990ish
Reply:Is there power to the machine?Did you check the circuit breakers/fuses feeding power to the machine?Blackbird
Reply:Originally Posted by dave powelsonIs there power to the machine?Did you check the circuit breakers/fuses feeding power to the machine?
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWSounds like the machine will weld in stick just fine. Makes me wonder if the issue isn't pedal or switch related since the machine worked yesterday. Any chance the pedal got dropped or the cord got yanked when you swapped cylinders? Maybe the face got banged by accident?
Reply:I don't know the details of that machine but assume it's not too different than an older SW-250 in its controls. I'd guess it has a problem in the remote circuit, as suggested above. First though, can you set it to run the HF in "Local" mode? If so, that will confirm the HF works. You can probably hear the noise from the spark gap without even checking the torch, if it works. Then, with the HF turned off: Do you have a VOM/voltmeter? If so, check for the proper voltage at the terminals of  the remote control plug, and if that's good, check the remote control wiring (assuming it's not wireless) to see you have continuity and a varying value when the pedal is pushed. If needed, you can get the correct values for your machine/controls from the Miller website after giving the equipment model and serial numbers when you 'ask for' the right manuals. The manual has the schematic for the wiring too, which for the foot control might have 4 or more wires.  That should be a good start.
Reply:In DC- the HF switch should be set to start, not continuous.  Continuous is used for AC welding.A picture of the front of the machine would help.  Setups are slightly different depending on the version Sync 250 you have.  My 1996 machine was considerably different than the 2007 machine I currently have.I'd set the machine to panel and try scratch starting the tig torch.  That will indicate if the problem is in the remote control circuit.Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.
Reply:I recently had a similar problem. The power lead to the TIG torch had opened up. It came with the used Dialarc welder that hadn't been used in about 10 years. It's a water cooled torch and it was used on tap water before I got it. Over time the wire inside the water line had corroded. My first attempt at using it got a short spark and then nothing. If your syncrowave will weld in stick mode your problem is likely the pedal or the torch lead.CharleyMiller MM252Miller Bobcat 225NTMiller DialArc HF / DIY Cooler2 Victor O/A TorchsetsMilwaukee 8" Metal SawMilwaukee Dry Cut "Chop" Saw 5 Ton Wallace Gantry Various Grinders, Benders, etc.
Reply:Tried all the above and everything else we could think of. Had a service tech from Mabscot  in today looking at it, still no go. He seems to think it may be a fried capacitor or even circuit board stemming from a bad electric storm we had last week.   Ended up sending it off with the service tech. He hopes to have it fixed in the next 4-5 days.I will let yall know what comes of it.If you cant fix it with a hammer, it must be an electrical problem."Boy, everyone starts with a full bag of luck and an empty bag of experience. The trick is to fill the bag of experience before the bag of luck is empty."-Grandad circa 1990ish
Reply:Update on this,Got the machine back from Mabscot, working good now. I guess they had to replace the PC board in it (still waiting on the bill for THAT) The ONLY thing we can come up with as to what caused it is an electrical storm we had that thursday night. The machine stays plugged in and is not grounded. We are guessing that a charge from a bolt of lightning backfed thru the building wiring and fried it. So until I can come up with a way to ground it properly I simply unplug it at the end of the day.If you cant fix it with a hammer, it must be an electrical problem."Boy, everyone starts with a full bag of luck and an empty bag of experience. The trick is to fill the bag of experience before the bag of luck is empty."-Grandad circa 1990ish
Reply:Originally Posted by larpheadSo until I can come up with a way to ground it properly I simply unplug it at the end of the day.