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I have a repair on cast steel. It doesn't take any shock loading , wear to any extent and is not visible once installed. Don't think it's worth buying the 10lbs min. of the 'correct' rod so me choices are:ER70s - regular steel wire=OR= Would you go with stainless wire for the nickel ?
Reply:Originally Posted by Dan FS71I have a repair on cast steel. It doesn't take any shock loading , wear to any extent and is not visible once installed. Don't think it's worth buying the 10lbs min. of the 'correct' rod so me choices are:ER70s - regular steel wire=OR= Would you go with stainless wire for the nickel ?
Reply:I may get blasted for this, but oh well. In a pinch iv'e used almost anything laying around with positive results. Pre heat, strong weld, post heat with super slow cool down, is most importatnt. I've been called out on a lot of jobs only to find out when I got there i've been misinformed, and don't have my weapons of choice with me, so gotta do what you gotta do. OH, peen your welds in between passes. Use your best judgement tho. Dont smash em to pieces. Ill leave that last sentance to one of the pro metallurgists on the site to explain what it does molecularly when you do that. Helps freezing the molecules in there place going from a liquid to a solid, and aid from cracking when they shrink and cool. I',m sure someone else could explain a whole lot better than me, but it,s major important, and it works.I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:I treat Cast steel like mild steel. Weld with E70S or 7018 and don't worry about it. An extra pass so there is more heat to cool down may help. Thick pieces should be preheated, just like mild steel.DavidReal world weldin. When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor. |
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