Pin-p Daddy - burns a fast one. Cylinder rod; stuck pin extracted.

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They said it would never come out. I couldn't raise any bets, so I wouldn't let 'em watch!Attachment 13049I used Exothermic Cutting Rod - weakened her fast!Last edited by denrep; 10-19-2010 at 11:20 PM.
Reply:Nice! What is the difference "Exothermic Cutting Rod" and "air Arc"? Me!
Reply:Nice job.  Go ahead Challenge me!  I don't have the fancy torch, I just use my O2/acet torches and a hose clamped to the end of the rod. "slice torch"ME, Air arc uses a carbon rod and welding current to cut.  The stuff he uses is a tube of folded metal.  Oxygen goes through the center.  Strike an arc and the o2 keeps it burning.  It will cut through a blind hole as deep as you can go.  I think the rods are 36".   The o2 does the cutting, the tube keeps it hot.  I was told you can stuff brake line with steel wool to get the same effect.DavidLast edited by David R; 10-03-2007 at 07:51 PM.Real world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Nice!Me!
Reply:Ho-hum, another one. Doesn't deserve a new thread.I know... Clean the bench!Attachment 13375Last edited by denrep; 10-19-2010 at 11:20 PM.
Reply:What kind of equipment is needed to run these cutting rods?Only two defining forces have ever offered to die for you, Jesus Christ and the American G. I. One died for your soul, the other for your freedom.
Reply:I have done air gouging with a copper coated carbon rod and an air source shooting out of the rod holder, but nothing like this! My curiosity leads me to wonder how you can keep the gouge centered and straight going through the hole and not sideways and blowing through the KEEPER piece?  Lincoln Power Mig 210MP MIGLincoln Power Mig 350MP - MIG and Push-PullLincoln TIG 300-300Lincoln Hobby-Weld 110v  Thanks JLAMESCK TIG TORCH, gas diffuser, pyrex cupThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 101My brain
Reply:I'm glad you posted those pictures, it's been a long time since I've had to do a job like that.  I've used those exothermic rods too with excellent results.  If I remember correctly the brand I used was Prime-Cut and Broco.  Another method I've used for removing stubborn pins is a 90 lb. jackhammer with a pointed tip.  First, you have to gouge a hole in the pin to keep the bit centered, then hammer away.  It's a little awkward to handle sometimes, but it usually does the trick.
Reply:Originally Posted by Joker11I have done air gouging with a copper coated carbon rod and an air source shooting out of the rod holder, but nothing like this! My curiosity leads me to wonder how you can keep the gouge centered and straight going through the hole and not sideways and blowing through the KEEPER piece?
Reply:The consumable rod is a hollow tube, actually looks like rolled tin. As olddad said, the burn is directed out from the tip of the rod.PoisonPancakes - If you can use some ingenuity to feed oxygen down the tube, and strike a spark to ignite it, as David R describes, I don't see why it wouldn't work.Joker11- I guess the centering is a matter of practice and care. I use two hands, one on the tube to carefully guide it. Before I start the burn I  hold the tool in position to get a feel for the alignment. Once through, I thin down one side of the pin, just to make sure removal will be easy. Road Warrior- I never thought of the jack-hammer trick. Thanks for the tip!
Reply:I figured we were due for another pin-burning post.Here's the pictures, to speak their thousand words:Attachment 49517Attachment 49518Attachment 49519Attachment 49520Last edited by denrep; 10-19-2010 at 11:44 PM.
Reply:any chance you have a shot of the cutting rod? 200amp Air Liquide MIG, Hypertherm Plasma, Harris torches, Optrel helmet, Makita angle grinders, Pre-China Delta chop saw and belt sander, Miller leathers, shop made jigs etc, North- welders backpack.
Reply:Too late.  He burnt that one up and Alfred made off with the rest.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:In steel plant we use a thin wall hydraulic tube 1/2" with a washer welded to them, usually about 10 -12' long and a lance torch hooked up to an O2 line. We would use this to lance off big monkeys (junks of hardened steel) from vessel tops in the steel making mill. Some time we would be the entire night shift with one monkey.
Reply:I have used  an oxygen lance a couple times.  wicked stuff.  I loved it.  we cut out some pins off some logging equipment.  we bored through 8 inches of steel.  when the pin cooled she slide out.  it was beautiful.
Reply:Nice, I have only read of the process. I've talked to some commercial demo guys they use liquid O2 bottles. What kind of supply did you use and how long does it last? Peter
Reply:Burt the welder - Here's the rod pictures:Attachment 49551I was going to unroll that stub so we could look inside, but got sidetracked.On the next one I'll try to get an action shot during the pierce.Castweld - Oxygen was a common 300ft high pressure cylinder, not liquid. Used two rods, not much oxygen, it only took a minute or so to pierce, probably the same amount as a torch cut would use. I had to dig around more than usual when piercing the large pin, to free it from the intersecting small retaining bolt/pin.Several people have mentioned simply plumbing an O2 hose to a rod and then cutting away.I don't see why it wouldn't work.Good LuckLast edited by denrep; 10-19-2010 at 11:44 PM.
Reply:this is the unit we used.https://www.mythermadyne.com/thc/en/...tProductDetail
Reply:Would this work on getting a broke off ease-out out of a broke off spark plug still in the head that is still on the engine that is still in the car,2001 ford taurus,3.0 liter?   Without messing up the head?Maxus Pro-125 MigChicago Electric 90 amp DC flux-coreLincoln Electric AC 225 tombstoneO/A torchM/O mini-torch10 acres of flatland15 acres of holler
Reply:Originally Posted by dugndeepWould this work on getting a broke off ease-out out of a broke off spark plug still in the head that is still on the engine that is still in the car,2001 ford taurus,3.0 liter?   Without messing up the head?
Reply:Originally Posted by dugndeepWould this work on getting a broke off ease-out out of a broke off spark plug still in the head that is still on the engine that is still in the car,2001 ford taurus,3.0 liter?   Without messing up the head?
Reply:Chuck - I'm not sure now what parts in posts #1 and #5 were. I think all I did was the piercing. Pictures on WeldingWeb had to be smaller then.  Most recently, that's an axle which was canibalized from a junker heavy lift-truck. Despite its outward appearance, the axle is actually in very good shape. I'm guessing that the one badly corroded pin was caused by a battery acid leak.Dugndeep -  A Slice rod would definately erase an EZ-out, but the slag in the cylinder could be an issue. Although usually chips and slag can be blown out of a cylinder and the engine can be started with the plug out to further purge debris from a cylinder.Is it a twist-type extractor? If so, any chance of welding a nut to the extractor to turn it backwards? Extractors usually don't need much of a reverse twist to break free. But if it's a wedge-type extractor, turning it won't help. How accessible is the broken plug?If not still intact, where is the spark-plug's insulator and electrode?Once the EZ-out is removed, and the plug "gutted," it may be possible to saw cut  the plug so that it could be collapsed or shrunk. Most often simply heating and cooling a stuck plug will free it.Good Luck
Reply:Denrep,Yes it is a spiral ease-out.I have been told to try that also with the nut.Just not a whole lot of room to do anything.Got home from work today,already getting dark so I will take a picture of the spark plug hole tomorrow in the daylight.Here is a picture of the spark plugs,the one on left come out real easy but the one on the right broke right below the hex part of the plug.I sprayed with penetrating oil before trying to turn it out,all of the others came out pretty easy but this one.Lucky it is the middle one on front of the engine,I had this problem for about 6 months,even bought a solid carbide drill bit thinking that I could just drill into the ease-out and insert a hardened bolt to turn the ease-out out,just no room to get at it.Ford garage says they can do it for $500-$800 to fix it unless they mess the head up,then could be thousand's for a new head.I been reading up on this,just alot of stuff to take off just to get the one head off.You got to take the cam sensor out,got to rent the tool to get this aligned back up right,you got to take the no 3 intake valve pushrod out,no. 3 valve is on the other head.I could get both the ease-out and the rest of the spark plug out if I took the head off,My greatest fear is,what if it won't run after I get it back together.The head bolts are one time use,torque to yield or something like that.I have thought of a EDM machine but the chips and slag again.I might just let the professionals do it,I hate to pay that but I need it to run plus I would have a guarentee also.......I believe I could get the rest of the plug out if I could just get the broke off ease-out out.I have the worst luck with ease-outs,I am just going to throw away all of my ease-outsThis is the first time I have ever had a spark plug break off,I've heard of it happening but just not to me.The rest of the plug below the hex is still in the head.I did get the rest of the porcelain and electrode out before trying the ease-out. Attached ImagesLast edited by dugndeep; 04-16-2010 at 12:27 AM.Maxus Pro-125 MigChicago Electric 90 amp DC flux-coreLincoln Electric AC 225 tombstoneO/A torchM/O mini-torch10 acres of flatland15 acres of holler
Reply:You don't want to sink a grand (or more) in this. Better work through it carefully and get the broken plug out.Maybe I can look at another one to get an idea of how much room you have to work with.It's not a double cam engine is it?And which cylinder is it?Good luck
Reply:the trick is making sure you have the engine at Top dead Center - TDC, then removing the cam sensor isnt really a problem, just make sure you are at TDC and mark the cam positioner's position before you remove it, then when its reinstalled ensure TDC hasnt changed and reinstall the sensor, most of the haynes or chiltons books will have a good tutorial on how to do this. Removing #3 valve pushrod is also easy, should be just removing the one nut or bolt for that particular valve rocker and pulling the valve pushrod out it will be just sitting there, just follow the steps in the book, its not that hard, most make it harder than it has to be. Special tools may make things easier, but its their way of scaring people into taking the car to a dealer to get repairs done, but the special tools arent always necessary when you can work around the issue.Last edited by MrRodeoCC; 04-16-2010 at 01:50 AM.Reason: adding textMAC WS1110 Mig WelderWoodworker HobbyistDelta 10" Table Saw, Delta Planer, Bosch and Craftsman Routers, 48" Craftsman Lathe, drill press, 1/2" hand and cordless drills, scroll saw, skill saws, jig saws, etc, and too many hand tools to list, loltake a nut put it over the broken easy out, use a tig torch extend the tungsten out and weld the nut in place then take a socket and remove the sucker. You may be able to weld to the broken spark plug as well and remove both at the same time. let it cool down before trying to remove it.Synchowave 180SD  Bernard 3500SS water coolerMillermatic 200Parker Plasma Tec 40dvOperating Engineers Local 12