Video from class. PIPE WELDING IN THE HIGHLINE

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Myself and a few classmates running some pipe in the highline outside the shop.This is on Campus.We've all just about finished up our 5g certs and are working towards our 6g.Any suggestions you see regarding technique etc...please feel free to comment on the youtube page. Or here.Thanks,[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zRiq4-P2Lqw[/ame]
Reply:Its good they have you guys doing position welds.UA Local 598
Reply:I wish the JC Im going to for my certs would do that. I find that to be alot easier than trying to weld in a cramped booth specially with pipe. Everything looks good though. I would just suggest using a face shield or a mask with a flip up lense while grinding, sparks or metal or basically anything in you eye that isnt suppoed to be there is never any fun and usually very painful!
Reply:I agree with WHughes.  It is good that you are doing "in position welding."  I had to learn on the job.What gear and fine tune number, is the welding machine on?  What size and type of rod?(I know that this is a web video with some wind blowing.....so I might not be hearing this incorrectly.)In the 6 minute video, it sounds like the inside of the pipe is getting blown apart.  It sounds like it has too many amps/volts.  It looks like a monster gap, in comparison to the rod size.  The result will be undercut and/or a wide, flat and possible low or recessed bead, on the inside.Do you have pics of the inside or fill passes, or cap?Why do ya' all bend the rod at the holder?  I do it, occasionally, but only when there is a clearance issue.  It looks like you have plenty of clearance.-RhynoLast edited by Rhyno; 04-16-2010 at 02:20 AM.07 Fowler 200D65 RedFace04 Miller TB 302, 22hpMiller 12RCMiller HF 251-1Lincoln SP135HyperTherm PM 380and a few others... Originally Posted by RhynoBut, if I "all of a sudden disappear....  ...." hopefully I didn't suffer too much....
Reply:6g was easy compared to 5g...
Reply:I'm curious about the bent rod on the back side of the stinger as well.I was taught that you put the bare end of the rod in the stinger in the 45 degree position and then bend the rod just a little, maybe 15-20 degrees, right at the stingers jaw. Then you can rotate the rod in the stinger and get the optimum rod angle for the weld you are making. But if the stinger doesn't clamp vary tightly it just turns into a pain and you might as well just keep the rod straight/no bend.X2 on the "in position" welds. Standing on the top of a ladder or balancing yourself on an I-beam while you weld is good practice. Whether your welding pipe, plate, or structural beams, SMAW, FCAW, GTAW, or GMAW, getting some hood time outside of the weld booth will pay off in the log run.Will
Reply:Bending the rod around the backside of the stinger is just preference. Many stingers are worn in such a way as to make it nearly impossible to have a tight grasp on the rod. When it is bent back, you can put your thumb on it if you need to. But you can also invite arc strikes from that side if you are not careful, and if you are in a tight spot it is likely to happen. Those arc strikes will get you run off a job. I most always bend that rod around the back of the stinger.UA Local 598
Reply:Originally Posted by RhynoI agree with WHughes.  It is good that you are doing "in position welding."  I had to learn on the job.What gear and fine tune number, is the welding machine on?  What size and type of rod?(I know that this is a web video with some wind blowing.....so I might not be hearing this incorrectly.)In the 6 minute video, it sounds like the inside of the pipe is getting blown apart.  It sounds like it has too many amps/volts.  It looks like a monster gap, in comparison to the rod size.  The result will be undercut and/or a wide, flat and possible low or recessed bead, on the inside.Do you have pics of the inside or fill passes, or cap?Why do ya' all bend the rod at the holder?  I do it, occasionally, but only when there is a clearance issue.  It looks like you have plenty of clearance.-Rhyno
Reply:The biggest issue I found while being outside was the sunlight coming in from behind me and glaring off the glass. It was extremely hard to see during the initial striking, and running of the rods.What are you guys doing to combat the glare?
Reply:Crappy stingers are a pain in the a**. When I was doing a lot of stick welding I would keep my own "whip" , a good stinger on ten to fifteen feet of cable with a male Tweco connector on the other end.Usually it would connect right into the end of the lead running from the machine, if not, I would just clamp the crappy stinger onto the Tweco lug. I had an old welding glove with the end of one finger cut off that I used as a protector/cover when I clamped right to the lug. Just had to make sure the connection wasn't in a puddle of water.Sorry, I don't have any good advice for the sun glare. Maybe try turning your head and looking through the corner of your lens? That might put part of your welding hood/head between the sun and your lens..Will
Reply:Originally Posted by jsm11................What are you guys doing to combat the glare?
Reply:For working outside, do a search on 'pancake' hoods, or welding helmets.Benson's Mobile Welding - Dayton, OH metro area - AWS Certified Welding Inspector
Reply:Originally Posted by jsm11.............. and i believe they had the machine set on about 83 amps. For myself it was a little hot, and was hard to control and we turned it down to around 73. ..................