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Fellas...I've had this lincoln precision tig 185 for a couple of years now and just now finally getting around to try and learn (LOOONG story why.) I've been practing on some 1/8" steel I got from the hardware store. Its been ground on and cleaned with acetone. I'm using 1/8 red tungston and 3/32 filler rod. Any comments suggestions please advise. I've got A LOT more seat time ahead of me. I tried to get into the local community college this semester but I couldnt work it into my work schedule. I've PM'd kbnit and will try to hook up him later. If there is anyone in the Phoenix area that can spare some time I'd love to learn more. Thanks for your time!Dustin Attached Images
Reply:just to prove I am a total noob... is the orange or the purple the HAZ???? Attached Images
Reply:Those look really good for a beginner's welds. Your amperage ("heat") setting looks good, just a little more practice and you will even out the weld width and ripple spacing.One thing I would suggest is to find a real metal supply place to buy steel from. The big box stores are way overpriced and have a really poor selection.As far as your HAZ question, the answer is neither. What you are seeing are simply the oxide colors, caused by the different thicknesses of the oxide layer that is formed when the bare and heated steel is exposed to the atmosphere. Since the HAZ is a region in, not on, the metal where the heating and cooling rates have changed the crystalline structure of the steel, it cannot be seen by the naked eye in the as-welded condition. To see the HAZ you would have to cut a cross section, sand it smooth and apply an enchant. Under the right conditions, bending can also reveal the HAZ if the surface of the steel is clean. Furthermore, the HAZ usually doesn't extend as far as where your red lines are.Visit Tensaiteki.com
Reply:Tensaiteki... thanks for your comments. I thought you'd be able to see the HAZ from top down on the metal. I did some searching on this forum and the web and was able to see to weld cross sections. Cool! Learning more everyday!
Reply:Well mine didn't look like that when I started, wow. Nice job.One piece of advice, try to find a different place to get your steel, the hardware store is bending you over the counter Yup
Reply:geeze...the hardest part of welding is going to be kicking my caffeine intake. I still find my self forcing to try to remain steady. Ugh...I am gonna hate mornings! How the heck do these guys do it???? Attached Images
Reply:Wow that looks really good!! But i agree look for another place to buy your steel at.
Reply:id switch to 3/32 tungsten and 1/16 filler max if you can, but thats just me and seems to be more of a preference.Have we all gone mad?
Reply:and 86 the Acetone.All you have to do is just get the mill scale off for Mild SteelEd Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:I disagree. Wiping it down with acetone will remove residual grinding dust and contaminants. Just because you can't see it or it doesn't "seem" to be affecting your welds, doesn't mean its not there. Wiping everything down with acetone is always good practice, including your filler.
Reply:Dustin,I PM'd you. One thing I forgot, I agree with snOborder's suggestion and drop down to a 3/32 tungsten. You can weld 3/32 rod with it no problems. Remodel's going along, probably come October we can get together, or maybe some night during the week after work.Regards, KbnitI r 2 a perfessional
Reply:No offense, but I find it really hard to believe you advanced that much in one day... So, I personally do not think you are the newb you are leading on to be... however, the last pic does show some decent beads..
Reply:read it again, no where did he claim that the last pic was his. He was providing the picture as a reference to "how the heck do these guys do it"Have we all gone mad?
Reply:Yea true. i missed that ^
Reply:<---BIG cup of diet mountain dew.....I dont coffee in the morning but I sure do enjoy diet mountain dew to get my caffeine vitamins. :-) I'm sure this doesnt help in me keeping the torch steady.....but it gets me through my day job.Thanks for the all the input I have received! I'll post more later after I get a lot more practicing in.Those great looking welds on the picture above are not mine (pic stolen off another forum).... and neither are the ones below.... and I definitely dont want them to look like this crap!!! Attached Images
Reply:Are those made via the goober transfer method??? I think Ray Charles could have done a better job!
Reply:Originally Posted by duvlithoAre those made via the goober transfer method??? I think Ray Charles could have done a better job!
Reply:In all my humble days and nights on the trails through the yeasrs I can honestly say I have never seen any worse welds on a cage like those in the pics. weld it like you own it
Reply:Ahh, I missed that one... Sorry about that...And those Helen Keller welds look good... LOL...
Reply:nice... try some fillet welds and post pics.http://www.aloumac.ca/
Reply:and DOVLITHO the seccond of your crap weld pics almost made me puke!!http://www.aloumac.ca/
Reply:http://www.mouthbreather.net/chriscage/index.htmSome shamefull roll cage fabrication pictures. BTW, Chris is the guy who did the work, not the owner of the car (who took the pictures then cut that mess out and threw it on the scrap heap.)BK
Reply:Fellas...Correction... previous weld pics of mine were with 3/32 tungsten and 1/16 filler. Here are some I did taking kbnit's suggestions. Thanks man! The first one is mild steel (same hardware store crap) and the second is stainless steel (shipping fixture that we usually throw away at work.) That stainless is fun....clean!Both with 3/32 tungsten and 1/16 filler rod. Attached Images
Reply:Dustin,Lot's better on the mild steel. On both the mild and the stainless, looking a little cold, but the meander is gone. Hand control is gettin much better, it'll be an afterthought in no time. Increase the amps, or slow down the travel speed, you're doing really great!!! Gotta love stainless, it's the best.....Last edited by kbnit; 08-28-2008 at 03:52 AM.I r 2 a perfessional
Reply:Originally Posted by SupeI disagree. Wiping it down with acetone will remove residual grinding dust and contaminants. Just because you can't see it or it doesn't "seem" to be affecting your welds, doesn't mean its not there.Grind the taper of the tungsten back a bit more, and you will get better focus of your arc. As a rule of tunmb, grind back 2.5 times the diameter. You also could go to 3/32 tungsten.
Reply:kbnit,What are the visual clues that tell you that it looks cold. Right now my eyes arent calibrated enough to tell. This young grasshoppa has much to learn! Thanks all for being a remote technical support for me!dustin Attached Images
Reply:Dustin,If you saw my glasses, you'd think twice about calibrated eyeballs.Go back the the second post you made in this thread. Look at the edge of the weld where it flows into the base metal. This is what we call the toe of the weld. In that second posting, notice that the toe of the weld flows evenly into the base metal. This is what everyone was looking at when they told you that you had your heat and travel down.Now look at the last pictures that you posted. There is a more abrupt termination of the toe at the base metal, and in some areas the edge of the weld appears to curve back on itself. This is an indication that you are either traveling too quickly, or need to add heat. The extreme version of this is when the toe of the weld folds over the base metal without fusion (curls back up under the weld), that is known as overlap, and is a rejectable condition on any code weld.Keep at it, you're doing great for a newbie.Regards, KbnitI r 2 a perfessional
Reply:that there is cold lap you can slow down or increase heat or also you can put your heat on the base metal and dab your filler bearing in mind you cool the puddle everytime you add filler so you can vary your heat this way too. |
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发表于 2021-8-31 23:54:53