TIG welding Brass

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I've heard different opinions about TIG welding brass (including some that have said that it can't be done).   Today I had a need to join two brass fittings and decided to give it a try to see what would happen.   It's my first time welding brass and I thought i'd share my results.   Firstly and most importantly- it worked just fine!   I used DCEN, 140 amps max, no pulse, 2% thoriated tungsten ground very sharp and 100% argon shielding gas, 15 CFH with #6 cup.  Filler rod was bronze brazing rod with the flux coating completely removed.  The part itself was just a 1/4" brass right-angle fitting with another threaded fitting welded on the top (essentially making it a T-fitting but with a pinhole in one side).   Result: The bead wasn't as beautiful as usual, which is partly my fault, both at not expecting what would happen and because I didn't have a steady rest for my torch hand.  If it was something I was selling, a second attempt would look far better.  Or a little grinding and it would be perfect.   So... what did I learn:    As expected, brass melts very easily.  I probably could have set the machine at 100 amps and been fine as I don't think I even came close to matting it.  It's kind of like aluminum in that there isn't much happening (i.e. color changes) until it becomes molten.  At least aluminum gives you the clue by becoming shiny.   And it becomes molten very quickly- a quick high-amperage press gets it running and then backing off quickly is necessary to keep the part from vaporizing.       When it was molten and the rod introduced, it was quite surprising:  it violently sizzed, popped and smoked!  (By the way, there's zinc in there so if you try it, dont breathe the fumes).   In fact, so much so that the bead was momentarily invisible.    Anyway, the point is- it works just fine!  Pics of result below: Attached ImagesLincoln AC225 & MigPak 140, Lincoln Magnum SpoolGun, Miller Spectrum 375-X Plasma, Syncrowave 200 TIG, Millermatic 252 MIG, Miller Digital Elite, General 7x12" horiz/vert bandsaw, 3' box/pan brake, 20 ton press, milling machine, 12x28 lathe, etc.
Reply:Although that looks ok should use silicon bronze. Torch use low fuming bronze has zinc tin and other nasties that caused your "fizzing" and harmful fumes.Peter
Reply:X2 here...I'm actually surprised at how nicely that turned out considering that you used the Bronze Rod...  That stuff is VERY difficult to control with a TIG machine.  You likely had the right amperage as because getting the parts HOT really quick will allow the Bronze to flow whereas too little amperage causes you to linger too long and vaporize' that zinc.Nice Job!/J...Miller Diversion 165120 amp Buzz BoxVictor Oxy/Ace Oxy/LPGSmith "Little" Oxy/LPGHypertherm Powermax 30Lot's of Misc. tools n' crap....
Reply:ive done this before useing Grade 3 brase rod. i was able to weld exspended shell cases together from our C.I.W.S. to make handles then bolted the handles to a cut down 5" shells to make some awsome looking Beer mugs. other than that thats about the only thing ive done for this application.If you like my stuff you can find me on Facebook.  https://www.facebook.com/theangryanv...ngryanvilforge
Reply:Originally Posted by jman...I'm actually surprised at how nicely that turned out considering that you used the Bronze Rod...  That stuff is VERY difficult to control with a TIG machine.  You likely had the right amperage as because getting the parts HOT really quick will allow the Bronze to flow whereas too little amperage causes you to linger too long and vaporize' that zinc.Nice Job! /J...
Reply:It came out fine.  But, I was thinking silicon-bronze rod as well. I have a brass cross to fix for a family member here very soon. (Once I get up the nerve; it is really thin.)  I am gonna try the OxyAcetylene torch and brass rod though.City of L.A. Structural; Manual & Semi-Automatic;"Surely there is a mine for silver, and a place where gold is refined. Iron is taken from the earth, and copper is smelted from ore."Job 28:1,2Lincoln, Miller, Victor & ISV BibleDanny
Reply:Try it on A.C. next time.....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:hmmm...Unit in my fab shop dept:my good hand and team that trust me...A lone welder make art... a village full of welder make Miracles...
Reply:I've welded it a number of times... If your not concerned about the mismatching metals, try using copper as filler.  It flows in alot easier and you wont have such a big issue with the zinc popping away.Common sense in an uncommon degree is what the world calls wisdom.
Reply:I used to make brass drive shaft gaurds for the company I used to work for. They used brass because it would not spark if something let loose in the belt drive or the drive train of the generators and pumps they built. I welded it just like aluminum with a balled tungsten end and would basically stack the welds by maxing the pedal dip, move max pedal dip. They came out pretty enough and I didn't find it that annoying to control. Try it with the balled tip that might give you better results and used green TP pure Tungsten."I believe that our heavenly father invented man because his was disappointed with the monkey." -Samuel Clemens
Reply:Good tips- I will try the AC with pure tungsten.  Thanks!Lincoln AC225 & MigPak 140, Lincoln Magnum SpoolGun, Miller Spectrum 375-X Plasma, Syncrowave 200 TIG, Millermatic 252 MIG, Miller Digital Elite, General 7x12" horiz/vert bandsaw, 3' box/pan brake, 20 ton press, milling machine, 12x28 lathe, etc.