I can't see my work with helmet

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I am using a Lincoln AD helmet that is adjustable from 9 to 13. I have it set on 9 and still can't see my work. I will run a bead away from the joint or will start in the right place but then veer off. Any suggestions?Thanks, DaveSent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Reply:I had similar problems because of two causes:1 - I had light coming in the back and sides of the helmet reflecting off the view glass into my eyes.  That's why I put a cover over my helmet - see my avatar.2 - I had welding-fume deposit build up between the plastic lens protector and the glass viewing lens/filter.  It took a while to build up and is hardly noticable at first but as time goes on...  Hold your helmet at arms lens and look through you visor compared to looking past it - the visor image may be dimmer but it should be just as sharp and clear as the no visor view.I hope that helps...Rick V 1 Airco Heliwelder 3A/DDR3 CTC 70/90 amp Stick/Tig Inverters in Parallel1 Lincoln MIG PAK 151 Oxy-Acet
Reply:I agree with the light behind your head...Miller Performance AD Helmet - Camo Edition Soon to have: Jackson HSL 100 - Forest Digi CamoMiller Thunderbolt AC/DC((Currently at welding school))
Reply:Originally Posted by Rick VI had similar problems because of two causes:1 - I had light coming in the back and sides of the helmet reflecting off the view glass into my eyes.  That's why I put a cover over my helmet - see my avatar.2 - I had welding-fume deposit build up between the plastic lens protector and the glass viewing lens/filter.  It took a while to build up and is hardly noticable at first but as time goes on...  Hold your helmet at arms lens and look through you visor compared to looking past it - the visor image may be dimmer but it should be just as sharp and clear as the no visor view.I hope that helps...
Reply:Ah, what's the big deal here?? I have bad allergies sometimes.  And they don't let up just cause I'm welding on something.The tickle in the nose.  Followed by the pre-sneeze.  The moment's building here...........Then the ULTIMATE MOMENT A blob of snot bout big as yer thumb right on the inside glass Do I quit mid-weld??  NOT ON YER LIFEI can't cherry out now, the Heartbeat of American Agriculture rests on my shoulders.  I press on until the weld is complete.  Squinting thru the nose loooogy to see the puddle for the perfect weld.   BE THE PUDDLEBE THE PUDDLEBE THE PUDDLE"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Wow farmersamm... you are truley an inspiration to us all!   Rick V 1 Airco Heliwelder 3A/DDR3 CTC 70/90 amp Stick/Tig Inverters in Parallel1 Lincoln MIG PAK 151 Oxy-Acet
Reply:I used to have trouble seeing in miller ad helmets, the tint they have just doesn't work for me.  I sold the helmet and bought a huntsman ad 2x4 lens and it has a much nicer color that lets me see the puddle better.
Reply:I'm a complete newbie when it comes to welding but I would still like to pass along something that I recently learned.....I am using the cheapest Harbor Freight auto darkening helmet that is offered and I was having the same problem that the OP is having.I would swear that I was running a nice straight bead, only to find that I was going at an upward 45 degree angle, once I lifted my helmet.I was also having to wipe the smoke deposits from the outer lens about every 5 minutes, (or less) and would still be welding half blind, due to all of the smoke.My solution to this problem was to set up a cheap Walmart floor fan next to my welding table.I run it on it's lowest setting, blowing across what I'm welding and I can't begin to describe how much of a difference this has made.I now can see the puddle clearly and I rarely, if ever have to wipe the smoke deposits from my lens. I'm starting to think that I'll eventually turn into a welder thanks to this very inexpensive and simple trick.At this point I'm using a cheap Harbor Freight, 90 amp, flux core welder, but I'm quickly becoming addicted to this art form. Once I'm satisfied with my work I plan on moving up to a more substantial welder but I also foresee keeping my cheap little floor fan no matter what I get.Thanks to everyone who contributes to this forum and that has given me information that will help with my growth in welding.Dave
Reply:Under certain conditions I have the same problem. These old eyes just aren't what they used to be. I found that if I draw a line parallel with and near the joint to be welded with a soap stone it helps me put the bead in the right place. If I'm welding aluminum I use a black magic marker instead of the soap stone. I have also added a flap to my hood to shield light from getting into the helmet from the rear. The flap has snap fasteners, so it can be removed from the helmet when it's not needed since it's much cooler working in there without it.CharleyMiller MM252Miller Bobcat 225NTMiller DialArc HF / DIY Cooler2 Victor O/A TorchsetsMilwaukee 8" Metal SawMilwaukee Dry Cut "Chop" Saw 5 Ton Wallace Gantry Various Grinders, Benders, etc.
Reply:Another tip- Try to back off a little. My problem was I had my head right over the fumes so the smoke didn't let me see.  If you find your self hunch over, head into your work you're probably to close. Now that i sit back and weld much easier to see and less strain on my neck,
Reply:One thing that hasn't been mentioned yet is to try going darker. Many guys can't see well due to how bright the arc is. You really don't need to see 10 " in front of the bead most times, 1/2"- 3/4" is probably more than enough. I really only see about 1/2" in front of what I'm usually welding anyways. I'm busy concentrating on watching the puddle and only really pay attention to the joint directly in front of the puddle itself. It's sort of like driving at night. Your headlights don't light up 6 miles down the road in front of you, yet you still manage (hopefully) to keep your car on the road only seeing what's directly in front of you. At best you see maybe 200 yds down the road if not less.Another thing that will help is to adjust the way you stand/position yourself. It won't necessarily help with seeing unless you are badly positioned to start, but most people tend to want to move in a certain direction naturally. Don't fight it. If you tend to weld at an angle to the direction you want to go, adjust your joint so you naturally want to follow that line. Why make it harder than it has to be? With stick I tend to weld flat diagonally left to right in front of me. That's simply the way my arm motion goes. So I set the joint up so it starts close to me on the left, and is farther away to the right, so my natural motion is in the direction I need to go given a choice. I see way too many students trying to fight this at 1st..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by Runs With ScissorsMy solution to this problem was to set up a cheap Walmart floor fan next to my welding table. I run it on it's lowest setting, blowing across what I'm welding and I can't begin to describe how much of a difference this has made.At this point I'm using a cheap Harbor Freight, 90 amp, flux core welder, Dave
Reply:Originally Posted by Rick VWow farmersamm... you are truley an inspiration to us all!
Reply:Some joints can be difficult to see and not wander off on. I have tried unsuccessfully to use chalk lines, but invariably I have trouble seeing them too. What I have found in those situations to work very well, is to just lay a piece of key stock or square bar parallel alongside the joint as a visual guide. I have even used a similar method to weld almost perfect circular patches in a tugboat deck. In that case instead of straight key stock or square bar, I used some heavy steel with a similar circular curve to the circular plate I was welding in the deck. I simply laid the steel up close enough to the joint I was welding and used it as a guide. In fact I was able to "bump" the side of the welding rod up against the guide steel. Made for a nice looking cap weld without any "wandering" off the circle.
Reply:Thanks everybody for all of the replies, I will consider each and everyone. Well, except for FarmerSams.Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Reply:I agree with DSW-try going to a darker setting. I don't have a speed shield but use a shield w/ a 4x4 lens.These shields usually come w/ either a 9 or a 10 which is way to light for me. I usually use a 13 inside and go down to a 12  when welding outside. Are you seeing spots after you are done laying a bead? If so, go to a darker setting. I also will change the outside lens every day if I am welding lots & clean the other lenses as ness. I might get away with two days of welding but not much more than that.When I first started welding horizontal I was also wandering all over the place! I repositioned myself so I could see the joint. Over time it got better but I really had to concentrate. Wish you the best!
Reply:I agree with Runs with scissors, On my last job we were welding galvanized and used small squirrel box fans to blow the smoke away. Cuz everybody knows "The State of California finds the fumes may be toxic"