Iron Gate, Stone Entry Way Installation Help

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Greetings,  I'm building an iron gate / security gate for a buddy of mine and would like insight into how people typically install these doors in entry ways.  I obviously need to leave a little gap so I can ensure it slides into place.  But I'm not sure about how and what is used to shim properly.  Any shims will be seen unlike standard door shims which are framed in.   See picture as a reference.  This is a similiar entry and style of gate which I'll be building. Any help or pictures of an install would be helpful.Thanks!
Reply:Try King Architectural Metals, they have tons of different hinges, latches etc as well as a lot of beautiful examples of work. Typically the hinges are anchored into the masonry with epoxy or expanding type anchors although the method used will be determined by the material you are anchoring to. "Anybody can talk $h!t behind a monitor, I let the quality of my work speak for itself"Lincoln Square Wave 255 and 355 Tig Lincoln 255 Power-Mig w/ spool gun Koike 5 x 10 CNC plasma Hyd-Mech DM-10 bandsaw Ineco QB-76 NC tube bender
Reply:Originally Posted by dcg4403Greetings,  I'm building an iron gate / security gate for a buddy of mine and would like insight into how people typically install these doors in entry ways.  I obviously need to leave a little gap so I can ensure it slides into place.  But I'm not sure about how and what is used to shim properly.  Any shims will be seen unlike standard door shims which are framed in.  Any help or pictures of an install would be helpful.Thanks!
Reply:Originally Posted by dave powelsonRound, round slotted, rectangular slotted washers of varying thickness under the wall mounted latch. Held in place by the anchors that fasten the latch to the wall.With an uneven stone surface, you may need/want to provide for some shimming--(and design clearance for the same) under the hinge side of the gate as well--to help plumb the gate vertical, etc. Allowing for some 'wiggle room' for clearance really helps on the install.Fit and weld the hinges in shop, clamping a stiff, straight bar to create and maintain hinge leaf and barrel alignment of one leaf to the other. Check this alignment with long straightedge in 2 planes. Doing the above compensates for any bowing, warpage, squareness in the gate framing itself.Good leaf and hinge barrel alignment creates a gate that's free swinging, long lasting. Some 'pro' gate guys really drop the ball on this item-with hingeproblems resulting.Planning the job is half the battle:-measure and record actual vertical, plumb, square measurements usingstraight steel tubing of the actual inside width of the stone wall faces. Mark the location lines of these datums on the stone wall faces. Get the actual hinges, latch and latch box to be used, measure and record the actual hinge leaf outside widths. Create a shop drawing with the hinge outsidewidths, the latch plate, latch plate to latch box clearance, latch plate to wall clearance (shim allowance), hinge plate to wall clearance (shim allowance).---From all of the above, the actual max. outside width of the gate is determined.---Finish the shop drawing then work from that.---Doing the detailing in the shop, prior to installing is much more cost/timeeffective that trying to hack things up on a field install.