proper way to paint a welding project .

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Hi to all. So I'm sure this post comes up a lot on this site. I would like more info on how to paint a welding project. Like how should i prep the the metal. Do i clean it with acetone to get the grease and stuff off it ? Also should i use a primer then paint. And should i invest in a good paint gun or just stick to a paint can. Any tips and tricks to making a great looking paint job would be great,  And what kind of paint should i buy .thanksMillermatic 211 with mvp plugs miller titanium series welding helmetstihl chain saws 8 ft welding table
Reply:It depends on what type of metal you are painting, what type of environment it's going to be used in, and how long you want the paint job to last. I've used spray paint for some of my basic projects but it wears off very easily. These projects are fine to retouch with more paint since I just want to keep the rust down, not display in a showroom. I plan on having the projects I plan to keep around a long time powder-coated or painted by a friend with a paintbooth.
Reply:follow the paint mfr's recommendations..seems like you know you cant get a good job with cheappaint on top of grease...i used to work on farms and we kept rust down by painting old motor oil onto machinery with a paint brush..
Reply:Clean metal I then take wire wheel on side grinder and go over I have a gravity feed spray  gun from Lowe's it a kobolt you can straight to metal if paint has etching capabilities but I try and always try and prime just gives a smoother  finish as far as paint goes you can use a rustolum or vaspar industral they work good but if you want it to be there for a while go to local auto paint store and get a two part apoxy
Reply:If you're using hot rolled steel, you need to remove the mill scale before painting.
Reply:Sandblast. DP epoxy prime and then single stage urethane paint or base coat clear coat.www.tjsperformance.comDynasty 300 DXHTP 240HTP Microcut 380Hyperthem 85JD2 Hyd Bender and HF Hyd Ring Roller all in one =(Frankenbender)Bpt. Mill/DRO4' x 8' CNC Plasma TableInstagram: tjsperformanceYT: TJS Welding and Fabrication
Reply:I may be a little off base here but many of my projects are going into the field to be used. There will be normal wear and tear and beauty is a passing concern.  After normal prep, I use a cheap brush then follow with a foam roller and put down a base coat of Rust-oleum red metal primer.  When dry I use an enamel meant for farm equipment.  Quite a variety of colors, it dries hard and is tough.  After all, it ain't a show car!  If you are creating high end parts, then the other replies are more appropriate.
Reply:The slower drying the paint the longer it will last generally.  Wire brush, wipe with thinner then paint with a brush.  Brush painting is slow but you are actually keying the paint to the surface disturbing any dirt or film as you  brush.  If the surface is not perfectly clean sprayed paint will land on top of the dirt film and not key in to the material.   Any sharp corners will not coat with as thick a paint film so they will fail first.  If you hit all the sharp corners with a sanding disc and put a slight radius on the paint film will last longer.  If you are after that perfect finish then you have to spray it.
Reply:Originally Posted by Hot Rod Grampa...  After normal prep, I use a cheap brush then follow with a foam roller and put down a base coat of Rust-oleum red metal primer.  When dry I use an enamel meant for farm equipment.  Quite a variety of colors, it dries hard and is tough.  ...
Reply:Originally Posted by zipzitThis is exactly where I go... I've got spray equipment, but the overspray goes EVERYWHERE and drives me crazy.  Have you ever seen the link for the $50 paint job? (Click Here.)  Guy uses rustoleum enamel with lots of thinner to produce exceptional results..  No mask, no hood, no safety booth, no overspray... Takes a little bit of patience.  But you don't have to breath the fumes.
Reply:Hey, Stihl91.Keep in mind my paint jobs are not on showroom products. I have had good success with sanding to remove oil, spatter, etc. Then wipe with mineral spirits or acetone to remove any dust or residual oil. Then I use Professional Rustoleum Red Primer (http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=146) in the spray can, followed almost immediately with Professional Black Rustoleum in the spray can. I used to wait a day for the top color until I read on the primer can that you can re-spray without waiting for the primer to dry. That saves me a lot of time and gives just as good results if not better.For most projects, the extra cost of the spray cans is better than spending time cleaning my spray gun.My only problem is sometimes I get small bubbles in the primer. Anyone know how to eliminate those pesky bubbles?Burt _____________________Miller Syncrowave 250Millermatic 211Miller 375 Plasma Cutter Hobart Handler 12010FtDrillBit.com
Reply:As I mentioned in Samm's paint thread the best and toughest primer I've found is oil base "Flood Penetrol", usually sold at Lowes. I spray it on straight, no thinner. It takes sometimes 24 hrs to dry good, then I spray the paint over it.                                     MikeOl' Stonebreaker  "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:Originally Posted by TJSSandblast. DP epoxy prime and then single stage urethane paint or base coat clear coat.
Reply:Originally Posted by mla2ofusAs I mentioned in Samm's paint thread the best and toughest primer I've found is oil base "Flood Penetrol", usually sold at Lowes. I spray it on straight, no thinner. It takes sometimes 24 hrs to dry good, then I spray the paint over it.                                     Mike