Vertical Up Ratzafratza#%^%#%*^&%$%^##@@

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I started a new thread because this vertical up is going to be my focus to master. In my previous post "First posting of bead pics" all of you that have replied have helped tremendously. The trailer is coming along and I'll include some more pics of it in this post later. As I was saying in the other thread vertical is driving me nuts. Below are some pics of my latest attempts, vertical up, this is about the best I can do right now. Yes, vertical is still making me cuss to much, any help guys will so surley appreciated.I have come to the conclusion the the dial on my machine is just for looks. There is no way it can be accurate. My first attempt at vertical up today I had amperage set were the small black sharpie mark is on the lower scale in the pic below, 2" into the weld I burnt through 4" channel (dam#$). I backed it off to where it is now, slightly over 85 amp mark and still under cutting. When I'm running a bead and quit if I pull the rod out slowly the arc will continue for about 2" out.Rod is 7014, 1/8", amps? who the hell knows!!!!!!!Dial indicationPic of machineFirst resemblence of a vert up after about 3 grind offsSecond bead a little bit better but crooked
Reply:When you want to terminate the arc do it rapidly. At to the look of your welds not great but not looking like you should become a florist or hair dresser either.  On restarts or when running over tacks: a bit of grinding on at the end of the weld you want to continue on creating a small depression, a place for the continuation of the weld to start, will help. Running over a tack can work in the flat (to some extent) but will play heck with you in the vertical. To run over it you have to climb this extra hill so at the worst possible time you have to do a fraction of an inch of overhead weld then transition back to vertical up. So Just grind the tacks back, give your self a ramp to climb, instead of a speed bump. As for the scale on the machine that depicts the amperage IGNORE it. If the weld is too hot you will burn through if too cold the weld will sit on top of the base material. The scale is just for looks they had to put some kind of markings so you would know what direction to turn the knob.
Reply:Yer doin better than you think.  I see no undercutting so the heat is close.  Try making the bead a little wider, but not much.  You have heard this before:Pause at the sides and cruise through the middle.Keep at it Once you master it, you will be able to do it in all processes with a little fine tuning.  As you get better you will be able to turn the heat up.3/32 is easier to run UP at just a few less amps.DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:I see plenty of undercut, but i think its probably more technique than heat being off.  The amps must be close, how did the slag come off? You need to pause more at the sides to let it fill in and spend less time in the center to make it a little less convex.It looks like your rod was angled more towards the one side of the plate, it has more buildup on that side with no undercut.  The other side has less buildup with undercut.  If you can keep you rod directed evenly at both plates that will help.Have we all gone mad?
Reply:Tried it again tonight. NOT GOOD Maybe I should take up hair dressing or massage. Yea that's it massage. #&#*$^@$%#&$&$#%$&$^%#^& that's the terrets coming out.
Reply:Look on the bright side, overhead is a walk in the park once you get uphill to work for you!City of L.A. Structural; Manual & Semi-Automatic;"Surely there is a mine for silver, and a place where gold is refined. Iron is taken from the earth, and copper is smelted from ore."Job 28:1,2Lincoln, Miller, Victor & ISV BibleDanny
Reply:I learned to weld on that machine. My father had bought one when I was around 11 years old.Esab Migmaster 250Lincoln SA 200Lincoln Ranger 8Smith Oxy Fuel setupEverlast PowerPlasma 80Everlast Power iMIG 160Everlast Power iMIG 205 Everlast Power iMIG 140EEverlast PowerARC 300Everlast PowerARC 140STEverlast PowerTIG 255EXT
Reply:practice in a piece of angle iron...start with a straight vertical up, no weaving..this will give you a better chance at keeping it straight and also afterwards it will give you something to weave over top of...this will help you know where to (as others say) stop on the sides a little longer and "cruise" through the middle
Reply:Vertical up was the hardest thing for me to learn.  That was 30 years ago, I have not forgot.......Don't give up, you almost got it.  The only thing that will help is time behind the hood.David Real world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Ok gurus, left me have it with both barrels. I found an old pices of 3/16 plate that I cut a couple coupons from. I cleaned them up the best I could but that piece of metal must have come off an old salt spreader extremely pitted. I tried another shot at vertical up. still not very good, help me out guys!disregard the spot at the bottom that was a tack. All these photos was with 3/32 6013, set at about 70 amps. This photo from the bottom up to the gring mark was using a z pattern. Above that I used inverted V.At the top I purposely stopped quickly and didn't fill the crater so you could see how much penetration I am getting. The hole in the middle is a rod change, yea I know that sucks.This is a full shot of whole coupon.
Reply:Ahhh.   6013...Now there is your problem.Esab Migmaster 250Lincoln SA 200Lincoln Ranger 8Smith Oxy Fuel setupEverlast PowerPlasma 80Everlast Power iMIG 160Everlast Power iMIG 205 Everlast Power iMIG 140EEverlast PowerARC 300Everlast PowerARC 140STEverlast PowerTIG 255EXT
Reply:i use 7018 you may already know this, or maybe already doing this, but with v-up i like to get very comfortable, prop yourself up against something so you have next to none body movement, your angle should be pointing upwards, and a steady crescent shape. make sure you keep your rod longer on the sides than in the middle. your heat looks good
Reply:I think just about everything i'm about to say has been said but just to reinforce some very good points. Keep your electrode pointed slightly up, about 5 degrees, keep your arc short when doing vertical up, this will help you stay in control of your puddle.Pause on the edges for proper fusion.  Just keep these in mind while your welding and keep on doing pretty much what your doing, the rest will come with practice.
Reply:Think like you are trying to keep a tennis ball against a wall using a broom...push up just a touch to start with. The other thing is hold your sides. Set your heat theoreticaly to about 115-125. Hold your sides for maybe a count of 3 or 4 and go quickly and smoothly to the other side. Don't worry about the middle of the bead that will take care of itself. Hold your sides more and watch the puddle. No hurky jerky motions either SMOOTH. Hold the sides...hint hint.'Mike