What would you charge me for this . . . .

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Just trying to weigh my options, but wondering what those of you with a lathe would charge me for a jackshaft, roughly 5/8" diameter.  One end is threaded, the other end will be 1/32 larger than 5/8 (not tapered, just a step up).  The shaft would be roughly 8-10" long.  It would need a keyway cut through much of it (though not completely).  Assuming the price is right I can give the exact specs, but the above will give you a good idea of what I am trying to price out.Perhaps another option to add would be a couple of small slots cut into it for circlips.This is the time I wish I had a lathe..... maybe some day.Last edited by jdh239; 05-23-2012 at 11:36 PM.The Lord has declared, "This is my work and my glory--to bring to pass the immortality and eternal life of man"  Moses 1:39Link: My name is John, and I am a member of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints.-- ColdCreekWorks.com --
Reply:What material? Are you supplying it? You just need 1 piece? What kind of tolerances are you looking for? Just need a little more info before throwing a price out there.
Reply:Originally Posted by rmkrider1What material? Are you supplying it? You just need 1 piece? What kind of tolerances are you looking for? Just need a little more info before throwing a price out there.
Reply:Doesn't sound all that hard, but the devil is in the details.Plain mild steel versus 'stress-proof' steel versus leaded free-machining steel versus a heat-treatable alloy versus stainless steel change raw material costs from ~$6 for a 1 ft hunk of round bar for plain A36 hot-rolled to ~$10 for a 1 ft hunk of TGP cold-rolled 1045 to ~$15 for a 1 ft hunk of 304 stainless.  Plus cut fees and s&h from the material supplier.High-speed use or 'low' speed use also has a bearing (Hah!) on the needed tolerances for the turning.Can you 'live with' just a hunk of plain 1018 keyed shafting?  Surpluscenter has a 3ft hunk of 3/4 keyed shaft for $27 (plus s&h).  Call it $30 plus $15 for s&h, rounded up to nearest $5, that's $45 in shipped material.  3 ft hunk of 5/8 keyed shafting is $23 (plus s&h), that's ~$35 in shipped material.Maybe 1-2 hours 'fussing' time on the lathe, again depending on exact machining needed and tolerances.  (that's hand machining to turn the hand cranks, if doing it via CNC lathe then you'd be paying for the tool path development programming time and machining time is probably just a few minutes   ).Threaded end options, external thread (NG if using the keyed shafting, unless you turn the threaded end down to a much smaller diameter) versus internal thread (drill and tap).Again, what you mention isn't all that hard, but the devil (and price) is in the details (specific material, specific machining and tolerances needed, etc).  The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:Originally Posted by MoonRiseDoesn't sound all that hard, but the devil is in the details.Plain mild steel versus 'stress-proof' steel versus leaded free-machining steel versus a heat-treatable alloy versus stainless steel change raw material costs from ~$6 for a 1 ft hunk of round bar for plain A36 hot-rolled to ~$10 for a 1 ft hunk of TGP cold-rolled 1045 to ~$15 for a 1 ft hunk of 304 stainless.  Plus cut fees and s&h from the material supplier.High-speed use or 'low' speed use also has a bearing (Hah!) on the needed tolerances for the turning.Can you 'live with' just a hunk of plain 1018 keyed shafting?  Surpluscenter has a 3ft hunk of 3/4 keyed shaft for $27 (plus s&h).  Call it $30 plus $15 for s&h, rounded up to nearest $5, that's $45 in shipped material.  3 ft hunk of 5/8 keyed shafting is $23 (plus s&h), that's ~$35 in shipped material.Maybe 1-2 hours 'fussing' time on the lathe, again depending on exact machining needed and tolerances.  (that's hand machining to turn the hand cranks, if doing it via CNC lathe then you'd be paying for the tool path development programming time and machining time is probably just a few minutes   ).Threaded end options, external thread (NG if using the keyed shafting, unless you turn the threaded end down to a much smaller diameter) versus internal thread (drill and tap).Again, what you mention isn't all that hard, but the devil (and price) is in the details (specific material, specific machining and tolerances needed, etc).
Reply:I would probably go with at least 4140 pre-hard.. If your using the grooves for snap rings for the bearing blocks, you could use clamp collars..  just guessing about 2 or 3 hours..for cnc, you'll be looking at a minimum setup fee and time.. be cheaper to have it done manually..tackleexperts.comwww.necessityjigs.comhttps://www.facebook.com/groups/mach...dingequipment/
Reply:I think you guys are right.  There are shafts online (IE bmikarts.com) relatively cheap.  They are already keyed and threaded.  I can weld to them if necessary.  I think that is the route I will go.Thanks all!The Lord has declared, "This is my work and my glory--to bring to pass the immortality and eternal life of man"  Moses 1:39Link: My name is John, and I am a member of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints.-- ColdCreekWorks.com --
Reply:Why don't you make a drawing with exact dimensions and post it.  Is this for a personal project or income?My name's not Jim....
Reply:Personal project (gokart).... actually, we purchased a different engine and sold the other one.  The torque converter we have now will work with a couple of mods.  I no longer need to build a jack shaft, so this wont be needed.  Thank you though.The Lord has declared, "This is my work and my glory--to bring to pass the immortality and eternal life of man"  Moses 1:39Link: My name is John, and I am a member of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints.-- ColdCreekWorks.com --
Reply:Why does it have the 5/8" + 1/32" step? If you could get rid of that (maybe use a bushing instead) you could start with a 5/8 rod and greatly simplify things.Welding/Fab Pics: www.UtahWeld.com