Drilling/Tap

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IBS, our drill and tap vendor, dropped off some combination drill/tap's.  I tried it on a plate and pretty impressed on the time it took to do the job.  So today, I had to drill and tap 32 holes for a cover plate on an electrical box that I made.  I flew through the first 5 holes in only 2 minutes.  Then it snapped for no reason.  So I was thinking that maybe I cocked the drill after the bit went though.  So I burned the bit outa the hole and grabbed another bit.  I made it though another 5 holes in record speed and wouldnt you know it, it happened again.  I don't think these things are made for a hand drill.  I'm sure in a press, things would be much better.  The second pic is an example, not the same brand.They sure are nice, until they break.-Mike Attached ImagesCommon sense in an uncommon degree is what the world calls wisdom.
Reply:I thought those "quick change" ends were designed for battery drills. Also on a drill press lots of them don't have a reverse to get the thing out again.Other than that, I could see them being very handy. Although I'd have thought 1/4" would have been at the upper end of the scale for drill tapping. I've done quite a few at about 3/16" or 4,5 and occasionally 6mm typically with a battery drill for convenience. Nice and quick tapping with a brake on the drill and easy to select reverse. Usually metal thickness would be less than 3/16" anything thicker would increase the risk of breakage IMHO."One of the things we have to be thankful for is that we don't get as much government as we pay for." (Charles Kettering)Mitch 180 (NZ)Lincoln SAM-400-220 + ?-400 Fordson Major + 2 x Tractapac Humber 80 + Procut 40 PlasmaMiller Spectrum 375
Reply:They're made for a hand drill, and relatively light guage metal. It might help to slow down a bit when the tapping threads enter the metal.  I tried so called tapping fluid one time, and immediately switched back to plain old 10-30 motor oil.  The tapping fluid is too runny, and doesn't coat the thread on the tap too good.  I was wearing taps out too fast, and it was hard to back out to clear chips."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:From my experience, they're just not strong enough to do many holes in steel.  They are awesome for aluminum.
Reply:regularly use a milwaukee 1/2 corded drill to tap up to 5/8-11 not too much problem once you get good at keeping the drill square.combo drill taps have been around for a good while first time i have seen them with hex shank . i have some 3/8" drill taps in the shop that are good for 1/2" plate dont slow down when you get to the tap, keep on going. ditto the 10/30 motor oil, or rigid brand thread cutting oil.of course with them being a new product they might have not been hardened/tempered correctlyinsert thoughtful quote from someone else2000 Thermal Arc 300GTSW 3.5 hours1946 Monarch 20 x 54 Lathe1998 Supermax 10x54 Mill2004 Haco Atlantic 1/2" Capacity Lasernot mine but i get to play with it
Reply:I have used them in the past on aluminum and they really worked well. The ones i used had a head similar to a common tap, so it would slip in the drill instead of breaking.
Reply:Originally Posted by farmersammThey're made for a hand drill, and relatively light guage metal. It might help to slow down a bit when the tapping threads enter the metal.  I tried so called tapping fluid one time, and immediately switched back to plain old 10-30 motor oil.  The tapping fluid is too runny, and doesn't coat the thread on the tap too good.  I was wearing taps out too fast, and it was hard to back out to clear chips.
Reply:Hey bhost1, welcome aboard!Nice to see another tool head...I call the spiral you describe a "gun tap", and you can buy the reverse spiral that backs the chip out of the hole - "sometimes" (the last one = mo-money, bad bargain).I also have used another lube called anchorlube, developed for difficult stamping of ferrous materials. Darn stuff will give you a shiney look on soft pipe! Similar look as tapping 28-30Rc low alloy with oil. It does get a bit wimpy with harder stuff though.Oh! Back on topic, I've not used a greenlee drill/tap but the original ones that showed up in the early 90's were fairly expensive and worked well for mechanics and maintenance folks, but I don't know any machine shops that used them. My bet is that if those 1/4-20's are less than $15.00 per they are not ground from solid and not the same as the original item.BTW the tap is the most dis-advanteged cutting tool used, no clearance angles...Matt
Reply:I have been using those exact ones for about 5 years. As a Sparky, I use the 10/32 most often for grounding screws. I use them in light gauge steels and aluminum. The only ones I have ever broke are the 6/32s, they are just too small and weak. They are ok for chasing threads though, but in a hand driver only.Miller Challenger 172Miller Thunderbolt AC/DC 225/150Miller Maxstar 150 STLVictor 100CVictor JourneymanOxweld OAHarris O/ASmith O/A little torchNo, that's not my car.
Reply:As an apprentice I was taught not to use lubrication oil for tapping or drilling as a lubricant works differently to cutting fluid. One thing not used much these days is lard- makes the job smell like a roast dinner but works fine.Clive
Reply:Tractapac,Who do you work for in Mt. Maunganui? I used to work for BOP Fertiliser plus contracted with Page & MacRae plus a couple of others the memory bank won't recall. I lived in Oropi and later Ohauiti.Sorry to hijack the thread.Clive
Reply:Originally Posted by cliveTractapac,Who do you work for in Mt. Maunganui? I used to work for BOP Fertiliser plus contracted with Page & MacRae plus a couple of others the memory bank won't recall. I lived in Oropi and later Ohauiti.Sorry to hijack the thread.Clive
Reply:Originally Posted by cliveAs an apprentice I was taught not to use lubrication oil for tapping or drilling as a lubricant works differently to cutting fluid. One thing not used much these days is lard- makes the job smell like a roast dinner but works fine.Clive
Reply:Originally Posted by farmersammThey're made for a hand drill, and relatively light guage metal. It might help to slow down a bit when the tapping threads enter the metal.  I tried so called tapping fluid one time, and immediately switched back to plain old 10-30 motor oil.  The tapping fluid is too runny, and doesn't coat the thread on the tap too good.  I was wearing taps out too fast, and it was hard to back out to clear chips.
Reply:Drills and taps all in one are called "Draps"..Drills and the proper size reamers all in one are called "Dreamers"I have used both..Don't care for them..http://www.dreamertoolinc.com/...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:I've used Relton Rapid Tap and been impressed with it but it's a bit hard to source here. Usually overnight delivery. Otherwise the Rocol UK or Australian made these days, it's pretty good in solid or liquid forms.I used a Chesterton product some years ago and it was great had a really good foaming and clinging action. But you have to get it specially. Otherwise there's the local CRC aerosol which is failry good but not in the foaming clinging stakes, more like an aerosol form of a cutting oil.I think a lot of it is personal preference, a bit like spray or dip anti spatter for mig tips."One of the things we have to be thankful for is that we don't get as much government as we pay for." (Charles Kettering)Mitch 180 (NZ)Lincoln SAM-400-220 + ?-400 Fordson Major + 2 x Tractapac Humber 80 + Procut 40 PlasmaMiller Spectrum 375
Reply:Guess I'm old school. I still center punch, center drill, sized according to bit web, then drill to size, power tap or if hand tapping use drill press with center tool to square tap handle. I've never used these all in on bits. I do have a tapmatic head, R5, 6 1/2', tapping head I have never used. Don't really know how.Miller TrailBlazer 251Miller HF-250-1Miller MaxStar 150 STLHyperTherm PowerMax 380 plasmaLincoln PowerMig 180Millermatic 252Miller Diversion 180
Reply:shouldn't the thread be "tapping drill"?
Reply:Originally Posted by waginGuess I'm old school. I still center punch, center drill, sized according to bit web, then drill to size, power tap or if hand tapping use drill press with center tool to square tap handle. I've never used these all in on bits. I do have a tapmatic head, R5, 6 1/2', tapping head I have never used. Don't really know how.
Reply:Originally Posted by TractapacClive,  Been in the Mount since mid sixties apart from 20+ years in Auckalnd. Came back down five years ago and we're setting up a kiwifruit orchard (what else do you do here?) I've never worked here (some would say anywhere!) apart from school holiday jobs at the Mount View Resin Plant and Age and Decay used to do a bit of contract work there. Did an apprenticeship in a freezing woks and we used tallow for cutting or drilling stainless in particular. Wander down to the rendering plant with a tin and get it stright from a seperator, still warm. How long since you were at the fert works? Have you been back, Oropi and Ohauiti are much expanded with lots of housing and development.I remember a story of when they wanted to shift a tank at the Mobil tank farm and the Page and MacRae guy said "The easiest way would be to get Mac down in the tank and then ask for a pay rise, close the lid and float it down the road"
Reply:I've used them before on tapping collars for small Grist Mills I've come to believe that they work ok for thin material but wear out rather quickly.  But that's just my .2 cents.  But with the small collars u better pay attention and not hit the other side.