Off hand welding & rod holding question.

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Just wondering if anyone out there can weld with their non-dominant hand just as well as their dominant hand...While welding the frame today, I found myself in a situation of having to weld left handed.  Yikes!  I was sweat'n bullets and started to think, nahhh... that corner don't need a weld anyhow.  Arghhhh!   Well, it didn't look too pretty but, it was a solid weld.  I got a new thing to practice now.Also, a fresh rod is pretty hard for me to control until it gets down to about 10 inches or so.  I've gotten into the habit of using the index finger of my free hand to help control a new rod.  Is this OK to do?Oh... today I found myself welding around a 90 degree turn without lifting the rod and having to make two separate lines.  Woo hoo!One other question:  Why is it that with a clean exposed tip, you have to work like crazy to strike an arc -BUT, in that one careless moment when the tip unexpected touches the piece, it strikes a perfect arc -causing an elbow-jerk reflexive action that results in 3 or 4 more perfect arcs at random locations on your workpiece???    This of course all happened while holding with the left hand.  -It's a miracle I didn't burn a hole in my chest.Anyhow, fresh pictures of the gen-set are in the projects section...
Reply:Welding high pressure pipe you SHOULD be able to weld just as good with your off hand as your dominate hand. Its somthing that does take practice but in time it becomes second nature. Having to weld with your dominate hand posses so many restraints as far as "having" to be positioned right to allow you to weld with your dominate hand. If your serious about learning how force yourself to only use your left hand for a while and do not cheat. Holding the electrode in between two fingers, or with one finger is fine if thats what it takes whatever is most comfortable for you.That freshly exposed tip i assume your talking about is a glaze of the melted flux over the tip of the exposed electrode wire, it takes a little more effort to strike an arc through that but is another thing that you get used too even though it dosent generally happen that often. A trick you can use is simply tap the end of your electrode on the ground gently.
Reply:Originally Posted by Ray CWhy is it that with a clean exposed tip, you have to work like crazy to strike an arc -BUT, in that one careless moment when the tip unexpected touches the piece, it strikes a perfect arc -causing an elbow-jerk reflexive action that results in 3 or 4 more perfect arcs at random locations on your workpiece???
Reply:I can tig and walk the cup with either hand just as well as the other.. Any other process no...
Reply:Originally Posted by Pressure_Welder Having to weld with your dominate hand posses so many restraints as far as "having" to be positioned right to allow you to weld with your dominate hand.
Reply:As said practice practice and practice. I have had test that require you to use both hands. I have taught my self to change hands when doing long welds while wire welding. But I have been at it for 30 plus years. Pay attention to the old gruppy farts and you will learn alot. As for holding the rod what ever is comfortable for you. Some times you have to bend the rod or even cut it down to get to the weld area.good luckMiller 330 A/BP Bernard SS coolerMiller cst 250Miller Big Blue 251DCentury 210 Mig (first welder I bought)Hypertherm PowerMax 800Victor torch setRu Fong 31 MilAtlas lathe
Reply:Originally Posted by Pressure_WelderWelding high pressure pipe you SHOULD be able to weld just as good with your off hand as your dominate hand. Its somthing that does take practice but in time it becomes second nature. Having to weld with your dominate hand posses so many restraints as far as "having" to be positioned right to allow you to weld with your dominate hand. If your serious about learning how force yourself to only use your left hand for a while and do not cheat. Holding the electrode in between two fingers, or with one finger is fine if thats what it takes whatever is most comfortable for you.That freshly exposed tip i assume your talking about is a glaze of the melted flux over the tip of the exposed electrode wire, it takes a little more effort to strike an arc through that but is another thing that you get used too even though it dosent generally happen that often. A trick you can use is simply tap the end of your electrode on the ground gently.
Reply:Good idea on the rasp, its good to see your picking up little tricks yourself. As far as moving your project.... how about your next project dont move it once leave it in a fixed position, almost as a test for you. I am not sure what your using for tacking but in my opinion 7018 is generally a pain for simply tacking, pick up some 3/32" or 1/8" 6010 and it will make your life much easier for tacking together your projects. When finish welding of course use 7018 or your desired rod of preference. I also like using 309 on smaller projects that dont require a procedure, stainless leaves a asthetically pleasing weld also! Depending on the material thickness rather than doing a vertical weld " if its too thin" run a hot downhand with 7018. As far as the fresh rods not wanting to cooperate, make sure your adequately grounded for starters, and im going to be honest when i have new apprentices come through my shop i generally have to tell them to have some feness when it comes to striking the arc. Most are so eager to get welding theyll whip away trying to start an arc, haha trying to stab right through the metal trying to establish an arc etc! all i tell them is its not a race, take a nice deep breath, exhale slowly and simply flick your wrist ever so slightly and it should establish your arc no problem.
Reply:If the situation dictates it and there is no other option, I have done the odd offhand weld and his has always been "fun".  Being naturally left handed, the right hand tends to do what it wants! A good way to improve your right handed (left handed?) dexterity is to practice writing with that hand! Shy of this, like stick welding in tight places, cut a few rods down to half length (make one rod into two!) and that should help.
Reply:Ive been practicing left handed, so far, I can burn in the root pass while pipe welding, cover passes have been sketchy at best. Im sure it will come with time.As said above, Im actually better TIG left handed. My left hand is a club, so using my right hand for the filler actually results in better welds....Lincoln Power MIG 210 MP ( boat anchor )Lincoln Weld-Pac 100 HDHobart IronMan 230Cutmaster 42Jackson NexGenSumner Ultra ClampsDWM120
Reply:Ive been practicing left handed, so far, I can burn in the root pass while pipe welding, cover passes have been sketchy at best. Im sure it will come with time.As said above, Im actually better TIG left handed. My left hand is a club, so using my right hand for the filler actually results in better welds....Lincoln Power MIG 210 MP ( boat anchor )Lincoln Weld-Pac 100 HDHobart IronMan 230Cutmaster 42Jackson NexGenSumner Ultra ClampsDWM120
Reply:Originally Posted by Pressure_WelderGood idea on the rasp, its good to see your picking up little tricks yourself. As far as moving your project.... how about your next project dont move it once leave it in a fixed position, almost as a test for you. I am not sure what your using for tacking but in my opinion 7018 is generally a pain for simply tacking, pick up some 3/32" or 1/8" 6010 and it will make your life much easier for tacking together your projects. When finish welding of course use 7018 or your desired rod of preference. I also like using 309 on smaller projects that dont require a procedure, stainless leaves a asthetically pleasing weld also! Depending on the material thickness rather than doing a vertical weld " if its too thin" run a hot downhand with 7018. As far as the fresh rods not wanting to cooperate, make sure your adequately grounded for starters, and im going to be honest when i have new apprentices come through my shop i generally have to tell them to have some feness when it comes to striking the arc. Most are so eager to get welding theyll whip away trying to start an arc, haha trying to stab right through the metal trying to establish an arc etc! all i tell them is its not a race, take a nice deep breath, exhale slowly and simply flick your wrist ever so slightly and it should establish your arc no problem.
Reply:Originally Posted by JimLI can tig and walk the cup with either hand just as well as the other.. Any other process no...
Reply:Ray - I assume that you are tacking with 7018. 7018 is not characteristcally a rod with high penetration qualities. Thus what you are experiencing is a higher built up weld while tacking. There is no need for preheat on thinner material. 6010 is a widely used rod on mild steel pipe for roots and other various jobs where you can benefit from its high penetration qualities. When tacking together a project with 6010 it will give you a flatter weld deposition and is much easier to strike. The flux on a 6010 is strictly cellulose their are zero alloying elements in the flux, it is just there to sheild the weld puddle think of it as being wrapped in paper! Where as 7018's flux at the very least contains iron powder and other various elements depending on the designation. And remember a tack is just that, its meant to hold your project in place before finish welding. When it comes to preheat, your generally working with heavier material or if a particular procedure calls for it. For instance the 2 1/4% chromoly piping i just finished with tig root required me to preheat to 400* and maintain that temperature throughout the welding and i also had a temperature that i couldnt surpass. Followed up with a 14 hour post heat treatment process. Pick yourself up some 6010 and youll be glad you did. Depending on what size your planning on picking up 3/32 and or 1/8" i usually set my heat at 65-70amps for 3/32, and 85 to 100 amps with the 1/8"
Reply:I can stick and mig weld fairly well with my non-dominate hand tig on the other hand, I can do but it's as good looking.
Reply:Originally Posted by Pressure_WelderRay - I assume that you are tacking with 7018. 7018 is not characteristcally a rod with high penetration qualities. Thus what you are experiencing is a higher built up weld while tacking. There is no need for preheat on thinner material. 6010 is a widely used rod on mild steel pipe for roots and other various jobs where you can benefit from its high penetration qualities. When tacking together a project with 6010 it will give you a flatter weld deposition and is much easier to strike. The flux on a 6010 is strictly cellulose their are zero alloying elements in the flux, it is just there to sheild the weld puddle think of it as being wrapped in paper! Where as 7018's flux at the very least contains iron powder and other various elements depending on the designation. And remember a tack is just that, its meant to hold your project in place before finish welding. When it comes to preheat, your generally working with heavier material or if a particular procedure calls for it. For instance the 2 1/4% chromoly piping i just finished with tig root required me to preheat to 400* and maintain that temperature throughout the welding and i also had a temperature that i couldnt surpass. Followed up with a 14 hour post heat treatment process. Pick yourself up some 6010 and youll be glad you did. Depending on what size your planning on picking up 3/32 and or 1/8" i usually set my heat at 65-70amps for 3/32, and 85 to 100 amps with the 1/8"
Reply:their is a definate difference between 6010 and 6011. 6011 is a rod designed for AC use, their is lime in the flux for arc stablization. 6010 is still one of your best tacking rods, or even a 309L. Hope all goes well.
Reply:Originally Posted by Pressure_Weldertheir is a definate difference between 6010 and 6011. 6011 is a rod designed for AC use, their is lime in the flux for arc stablization. 6010 is still one of your best tacking rods, or even a 309L. Hope all goes well.
Reply:Hmmmm, the pics didn't come through.  Trying again.Also, thanks for all the help so far! Attached Images
Reply:best way i've found to get good at welding with your left had......    fall on your right,  and give yourself a severe sprain.......   i don't think i could burn more then 1 or 2 rods for atleast 3-4 month's with my right hand......     7 years later,  i still have days i gotta weld left handed,  my right wrist just can't handle a whip......     ones gotta do what ya gotta do to keep the family fed....Bill BerryKeith Berry & Son Ltd.machine work, and weldingBear River Vollunteer FD
Reply:I have found that repitition does alot as far as welding with your off hand. I found it easiest to start off with pad welds. Surfacing a piece of plate in all positions will get you a good start. I have found that a 6"x6" piece of matl works great.  I think that in time the work you put in to practicing will pay off great regardless of what process you're using.
Reply:Woo Hooo!  I did some left hand welding today and it came out fine. I was too darn tired to reposition that frame one more time.  Actually, things are improving.  I had 4 brackes all setup with magnets and zipped right through without really thinking much about it.  One thing I noticed...  Those welding rods go quick!  I'm burn'n through the box like sparklers on the 4th of July...Sometimes though, I wonder if I would have been better-off with a MIG instead of a stick welder.  -Too late now, I got what I got -and that's what I'm gonna use.